Turbo oil drain
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From: Brisbane, Australia
Vehicle: 2003 Hyundai Accent 22PSI Boost
High all, just a question,
why do most of you turbo guys run like a 8an return to your sump when your inlet is a 3an or 4an, surelu a 6an would be suffecient.
Please enlighten me,
Cheers RYan
why do most of you turbo guys run like a 8an return to your sump when your inlet is a 3an or 4an, surelu a 6an would be suffecient.
Please enlighten me,
Cheers RYan
The larger the drain the less problems you will run into, alot of people have issues with "turbo smoke". Most people think it is rings, bad turbo seals, and dive for the worst. When in reality they have there drain to low on the pan, and it will cause oil to be forced into the turbine housing and burn, and or people run lines and they will clog, or are not routed in a short straight manner.
ditto to what he ^^ said...
by running a bigger drain, you can support more volume in the drain at anytime.. (not like you will need it, but you can)
you never will have an issue running a -10 vs. a -6, so why not?
Most important things about the drain line is making sure the fitting is high enough in the pan (or tap the block) and that the routing is always 'downhill' without any flat spots or kinks in the line.
by running a bigger drain, you can support more volume in the drain at anytime.. (not like you will need it, but you can)
you never will have an issue running a -10 vs. a -6, so why not?
Most important things about the drain line is making sure the fitting is high enough in the pan (or tap the block) and that the routing is always 'downhill' without any flat spots or kinks in the line.
Pretty much all been said ... but for one thing ... your looking almost for a gravity drain. You don't want the inlet to push the oil out. A bigger outlet makes sure that no pressure is created. Especially on a journal-bearing center. The oil is less for heat removal then for a very thin film on the shaft. The rotation creates a barrier that makes it almost friction less. Add some pressure to that and it could push it off center.
And yes, a ball bearing center section has less friction, but its usually when the shaft is accelerating. At a steady state they're about equal.
And yes, a ball bearing center section has less friction, but its usually when the shaft is accelerating. At a steady state they're about equal.
Thread Starter
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From: Brisbane, Australia
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Reason is mu drain, is 90 degrees in a brass fitting and into my pan flat, theres no room to go bigger or go down hill... HELP!!!
I would not got more than a 45 degree bend to the pan from the Drain line, it is a gravity drain remeber, so that 90 will have more potential to cause backpressure on the oil return and cause oil to be pushed into your turbing housing! I would first attempt to find a good spot to tap the Block!!! Like DragonBoy said^^^ or you can just find a diffrent pan, and fitting with a 45 degree bend and make it as high up on the pan as possible!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Brisbane, Australia
Vehicle: 2003 Hyundai Accent 22PSI Boost
Im actually thinking im going to have to make a custom sump, which wont be to hard, how far down into the oil well can you go? also where would i tap the block(Unsure of location)
But probably going to have to make a new manifold arn't I???
Cheers Ryan
But probably going to have to make a new manifold arn't I???
Cheers Ryan
how much vertical space is there from the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan flange?
i would go as high on the oil pan as physically possible, just to be sure. you really dont need THAT much vertical drop as long as its vertical so gravity can do its thing.
i would go as high on the oil pan as physically possible, just to be sure. you really dont need THAT much vertical drop as long as its vertical so gravity can do its thing.


