Turbo Install woes....(HELP)
02-12-2003, 07:40 PM
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Turbo Install woes....(HELP)
Okay so I've been installing the Alpine Turbo kit for what it seems like ever and have some problems.
Everything is installed as per the instructions supplied by Alpine. The only substitution I made was the addition of ARP Studs and Bolts instead of reusing the OEM head bolts. The turbo is not hooked up to the throttle body yet because I have to take the car in to have the Unichip reprogrammed.
Before I can do that I need to have the engine running properly. Here's my problem. I have no oil pressure and my No 1. Cylinder is reading only around 60 PSI Compression!! When I turn off the engine I can hear an audible hiss coming from the area of the No 1 cylinder amd it looks like its burning antifreeze. I pulled the plugs and they look normal though.
At first I had torqued down the ARP Studs/Bolts to the OEM specs, but in the wrong sequence (Opps). I caught my mistake befoe I started my engine and retorqued them in the right sequence with a higher torque number per Red's suggestion.
Am I hosed? Oil is circulating but my 'idiot' light is staying on. I have a real oil pres gauge but broke the sending unit. I'm going to pick up a new one this weekend. Did I warp the cylinder head causing irrepairable damage? I'm not used to working on Aluminium Cylinder heads so I don't know how much 'abuse' they can take.. sad.gif
Just a quick note, the Alpine kit uses a head spacer to lower compression sandwiched between two head gaskets.
I'm sorry this is so long but I wanted to be clear as to what my situation is. I appreciate any and all input!!! frown
Everything is installed as per the instructions supplied by Alpine. The only substitution I made was the addition of ARP Studs and Bolts instead of reusing the OEM head bolts. The turbo is not hooked up to the throttle body yet because I have to take the car in to have the Unichip reprogrammed.
Before I can do that I need to have the engine running properly. Here's my problem. I have no oil pressure and my No 1. Cylinder is reading only around 60 PSI Compression!! When I turn off the engine I can hear an audible hiss coming from the area of the No 1 cylinder amd it looks like its burning antifreeze. I pulled the plugs and they look normal though.
At first I had torqued down the ARP Studs/Bolts to the OEM specs, but in the wrong sequence (Opps). I caught my mistake befoe I started my engine and retorqued them in the right sequence with a higher torque number per Red's suggestion.
Am I hosed? Oil is circulating but my 'idiot' light is staying on. I have a real oil pres gauge but broke the sending unit. I'm going to pick up a new one this weekend. Did I warp the cylinder head causing irrepairable damage? I'm not used to working on Aluminium Cylinder heads so I don't know how much 'abuse' they can take.. sad.gif
Just a quick note, the Alpine kit uses a head spacer to lower compression sandwiched between two head gaskets.
I'm sorry this is so long but I wanted to be clear as to what my situation is. I appreciate any and all input!!! frown
02-13-2003, 12:08 AM
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Run a compression check of the engine. It's the easiest way to tell what's going on. Compression testers are not that expensive.
It may just be that your head spacer and gaskets aren't lineing up right.
It may just be that your head spacer and gaskets aren't lineing up right.
02-13-2003, 12:45 AM
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I did run a compression test...all the cylinders were fine except cyl #1...it is only reading 50Psi. Not good. I think I pooched the head gasket because, at least externally it looks all lined up. I hope I didn't fry any piston rings... suicide
02-13-2003, 03:38 AM
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If Cylinder #1 is only 50 PSI...you KNOW you've got a problem. Now we need to determine WHAT the problem, is.
You'll have to remove the head and examine both gaskets. Look for gasket damage, blackening, scratches, scuffs, or anything that might indicate that the gaskets aren't sealing right.
If the gaskets look perfect, and you had the head torqed down properly...That means either the head or block are warped. Chances are, it's the Aluminum head, vs the iron block. You can try to get the head decked, but it will raise your compression a tad...otherwise, you'll have to buy a new head, and do the install again.
You'll have to remove the head and examine both gaskets. Look for gasket damage, blackening, scratches, scuffs, or anything that might indicate that the gaskets aren't sealing right.
If the gaskets look perfect, and you had the head torqed down properly...That means either the head or block are warped. Chances are, it's the Aluminum head, vs the iron block. You can try to get the head decked, but it will raise your compression a tad...otherwise, you'll have to buy a new head, and do the install again.
02-13-2003, 05:52 AM
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I'm thinking I just jacked up one or both of my Head Gaskets. The engine runs perfect except for the little white smoke in the exhaust and a little water in the oil. I think (I hope) I didn't torque the ARP bolts enough the first time to warp the head and since I only torqued them to 45 ft/lbs the second time I should be okay (I hope). Jason (Red) said that I shouldn't go over 50+ ft/lbs or else I could start warping the cylinder head.
I think I'm going to just have it towed to the Speedshop down the street and have them finish the install for me. I might have stepped in over my head on this one and I don't want to risk any more damage to my engine. Building a N/A big block sure is a lot simpler than building a high strung turbo 4 banger.... suicide
I think I'm going to just have it towed to the Speedshop down the street and have them finish the install for me. I might have stepped in over my head on this one and I don't want to risk any more damage to my engine. Building a N/A big block sure is a lot simpler than building a high strung turbo 4 banger.... suicide
02-13-2003, 06:42 AM
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well, not to get off topic, but building a high-strung n/a motor is harder than a turbo 4 cyl. just think of what the guys in korea have to do just to squeeze 190whp for racing use only out of the beta vs. what we have to do for that 190whp from a turbo.
[ February 13, 2003, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: turbulence ]
[ February 13, 2003, 01:43 PM: Message edited by: turbulence ]
02-14-2003, 12:47 AM
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QUOTE
turbulence:
what we have to do for that 190whp from a turbo.
I dunno...I've been through a damn lot with the alpine kit...and I have YET to hit 190 WHP...*sigh*
what we have to do for that 190whp from a turbo.
02-14-2003, 05:30 PM
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David..at the very least if either A. You have warped your #1 piston OR B. You just have the extra cash floating around and you want to say F**K the head spacer, you could always just buy a set of forged pistons from CNK for I think about $250. It might just be easier than messing with your head spacer and hold up better than your stock pistons equalling more boost that you can push out. Just a suggestion but I completely understand if you don't have the money floatin' around.