well i had this posted on my failed website and on "that other site" so i figured ill post it here too


This is a joint post created by FaithofaDragon and JonGTR.

TURBO PARTS NEEDED!!!! this is for a basic setup with TONS of room for improvement.
DO NOT AT ALL SKIMP ON FUEL TUNING AND CHEAP PARTS!!! NO NO NO!!!!

JonGTR: I've been through a long process of buying parts and replacing shitty ones that I've skimped on. Only buy the best, or don't bother building! Otherwise you'll be left stranded on the road.
If you follow the advice here and buy quality parts, then there's no reason for your turbo Tiburon to not be as reliable as a stock Tiburon.

The List:

Maximum Boost
By Corky Bell
ISBN: 0837601606
Read this first before buying or building anything! It has a ton of information for the turbo noob that you must know. It only costs $23 from Amazon, which is faaaar worth it for the knowledge. I will tell you to STFU if you ask questions without reading this book. wink1.gif

Turbo
Buy a NEW one. Not a cheap ghetto ebay special, or some used one that someone says it "looks" fine. Unless you have had it inspected by a certified rebuilder, don't trust it! Buy one with a warranty. If it seems too cheap, then it IS cheap! This is the single most important part that you need to spend extra money on. Do not cheap out on it. Do not cheap out on it. Do not cheap out on it.
ex. Super 60, T3/T4, 60-1, GT35R. Stick to a turbo with a T3 hotside flange.
Watercooled is a lot more reliable than nonwatercooled. The water cools the oil AND the bearings.
A ball bearing turbo generally will cost you $500 more than standard bearing turbos, but they spool a little quicker.
Good seller: http://cheapturbo.stores.yahoo.net/gatu.html

Manifold
Be sure to specify if you want an internal or external wastegate and that it has a flange to match your turbo.

Downpipe
Make sure it has a flange to match your turbo. Usually a custom job at an exhaust shop can make it. Don't forget to factor in the wastegate if it's internal or external.
2.5" mandrel for up to 275whp. 3" mandrel for high boost.


Injectors
The stock ECU uses Saturated High Impedance Injectors.
ex. Bosch type 440cc ford mustang "green tops" are the most common cheapest bolt on.
Ebay around $200.
http://www.rceng.com
http://racetronix.com

Fuel Pump
ex. Walbro 255lph for up to 600whp (requires the FULL replacement of the stock fuel pressure regulator)
ex. Walbro 190lph fuel pump (for low boost setup to keep the stock FPR)
ex. Eclipse GSX fuel pump (good for up to ~250whp)
Ebay has the Walbros for about $100
http://dsmtrader.com has the GSX pumps that can be bought for around $30.

Fuel Pressure Regulator (1:1 ratio)
ex. SX Industries or Aeromotive http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdetail.php?prod=10
~$120 new on Ebay

Charge Piping
2.5" mandrel bends are a good average size
Aluminum is much lighter than mild steel but is also twice as expensive.
Order from Summit Racing or JCWhitney for about $150.

Couplings
Be sure to get 3 ply for durability.
The count depends on how much you welded the charge piping together. Welds>Couplings The more you weld the charge piping together, the less chance there will be with leaks and popping off the couplings. My suggestion is to weld the piping as much as you can, then add couplings where you "need" them.
Several stores on ebay have them. Also http://hightempsilicone.com

T-Bolt clamps
These will clamp the pipes at any boost pressure. Do NOT use regular hose clamps! They do not clamp tight enough.
Ebay or Amazon.com sells T-Bolt clamps cheap.
~$3-$5 each. 2 for each coupling, duh.

Turbo Oil Feed line(-3an)
If you have a good plumbing store nearby, then they can custom make you a line to fit. Length depends on your setup and where the turbo is located. 24" should do it. Tap the oil from the front/right side of the head where the hex plug is.
Ebay has several "Turbo Oil Feed Kits" for around $50.

Return line for the turbo (1/2")
Do NOT use any kind of rubber or radiator hose with clamps! It will eventually deteriorate and cause oil leaks. This line also sits near the downpipe, so it gets extremely hot.
If you have a good plumbing store nearby, then they can custom make you a stainless steel line to fit.
Ebay has several "Turbo Oil Return/Drain Kits" for around $80.

Weld 1/2" fitting to Oil Pan.
This only costs a few bucks, but make sure the fitting is steel so that it can be welded.
Some of the "Drain Kits" on ebay come with this fitting.

Water Lines for Turbo
The best place to pull water is from the back of the head where the throttle body coolant lines are fed. Just remove the throttle body hose lines, and put the turbo hoses on the head instead. 3/8" radiator hose with hose clamps will work. Should cost less than $7 for it all from your local auto store.

Intercooler
Remember, taller with more bars is better than longer. It can be mounted to the front bumper support bar. You may need to have brackets welded to the intercooler.

Blow off valve
"Recirculating type" if you have a MAF based ECU. Route it back between the turbo and the intake filter.
"Vent to atmosphere" if you converted to a MAP ECU.

Fuel Tuner Very important!
This fully depends on how much money you have left over to spend on it. Many people already have these examples installed. So do a search on which one you want and how to install and program it. Do NOT get an SAFC!!! It does not work with the stock ECU and will have leaning problems.
Standalones:
Perfect Power PRS $550-$800
Haltech $1200-$1400
Piggybacks:
Perfect Power SMT with dual fuel rail $600

Gauges
This depends on the brand you prefer or the "style" you want. Autometer is known for it's reliability and cost. But there are some real fancy ones out there that have all the bling and can cost more than your turbo kit.
These readings are required: Fuel pressure, oil pressure, boost pressure.
Other recomended gauges are: EGT, Voltmeter, and wideband (see below)

Wideband O2 Sensor Kit
If you are installing and tuning the turbo yourself, then you better have this! Most brands all work great. The price differences depend on the options they have. Some have datalogging.
PLXDevices.com has a good, basic wideband for a reasonable price of ~$300. Their customer service has been great to me with cheap replacement parts.


Custom Exhaust
2.5" mandrel bent will work for under 280whp
3" mandrel bent is recommended for higher HP levels, but will be slightly louder.

Turbo Timer
Allows the oil and turbo to cool down after driving. It's highly recommended, especially if you don't have a water cooled turbo.

Clutch upgrade
A "stage 3" from all manufacturers is recommended. I've gone through several brands, and only Clutchnet has held over 250whp for me. VHR is also a very good brand that will hold a ton of power. Most will do fine for the average turbo setup though.
The Spec sucks, and has exploded twice in my transmission with horrible customer service, do not buy!

Boost controller
It is best to buy a spring that sets your wastgate to the desired pressure as it is the most reliable way of regulating boost. But a boost controller can be set to bypass the vacuum line to "bleed off boost". There are too many types and brands to label. It all depends on what you can afford.

Colder Spark Plugs
You will need colder plugs. You must go 1 step colder for every 50hp you add. So immediately, you will need to go 2 steps colder.
NGK V-Powers are recommended. Part #BKR5E is stock, and #BKR7E is 2 steps colder. They go for about $2 each.



Recommended parts:

Oil Cooler
The turbo heats up the oil significantly. A cooler will help to keep the oil from breaking down as quickly.

Brake Kit
There is no point in going fast if you slam into a wall at the end of the track...

Tires
Even a mild turbo kit will spin the stock tires through 3rd gear gear. So invest in some nice DR's, or at least 205 wide tires.

Limited Slip Differential
Focusing the power between both tires dramatically helps the way your car gets traction with a turbo kit. Otherwise, you'll end up trying to put 200+whp down through one tire. An LSD will help to lock both tires in rotation.
Quaife ~$1100
Cusco

Traction Bars
Once you start to break traction with the power, you're gonna experience a LOT more wheel hop. To cure this, A.P.E. is building us a traction bar set. This keeps the control arms from wanting to pull out of alignment from the rest of the car.
~$250 from A.P.E.

Motor Mounts
The more power your motor makes, the more it's gonna torque in its mounts. This can cause poor shifting, and more wheel hop.
KSpec ~$79 each.



Ok here are a few things to concider before boosting:

-You will lose a few miles per gallon. However, this depends on how much you like to "floor it".
I (JonGTR) have experienced 30mpg as long as I stay off the boost.

-CHECK LOCAL EMISSIONS LAWS AS A PIGGYBACK/STANDALONE CAN MAKE YOU NOT PASS.

-You will need to run premium fuel. This will cost you a whole whopping $2 extra everytime you fill up the tank.

-Learn as much as you can about turbocharging before you do this. Read Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost". do it!

-IF YOU HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOUR DOING AND CANT AFFORD A NEW ENGINE THIS MAY NOT BE FOR YOU. REPAIRS TO A TURBOED ENGINE CAN GET EXPENSIVE(replacing a turbo aint cheap). Things break when you least expect it. So it is a good idea to have about $500 laying around to replace MOST things in your setup. Although a well put together setup with quality parts will prove to be very reliable.

-TURBOED ENGINES WILL NOT HAVE THE RELIABLILITY OF YOUR STOCK ENGINE..KEEP THAT IN MIND IF
THIS IS YOUR DAILY DRIVER. But as long as you build it with high quality parts, and check to make sure everything is bolted on correctly, then it will be pretty damn close to being "reliable". Like I said in the beginning, most, if not all of the "unreliability" comes from skimping on parts and not putting things together correctly.

-Power is NOT everything! Once you hit 250+whp, it becomes extremely difficult to get traction at the track. So once you get there, you need to start working on the LSD and suspension mods. Don't bother trying to add more power because it would be a waste of your time.

-Change your oil and plugs frequently! Turbocharged vehicles burn a lot hotter. Therefore the oil will break down faster and require you to change the oil more frequently. Fully Synthetic oil does not break down as fast as regular oil.
The same hear factor goes for the spark plugs. The NGK's are really cheap, so you should be able to change them during ever, or every other oil change.

 

Very nice writeup.

 

Yea that's good stuff to know. I've heard of that book Maximum boost going to pick up. Very pricey to turbo vs engine swap.

Thanks for the write-up

 

well if i was you...i would swap in a beta THEN turbo it

 

NOw your just making it that much more expensive. Good write up. Deffinatly one of those you are going to link to ppl asking a ton of questions...

 

thanks the funny part is that write up is probably 3 years old lol me and jongtr got bored one day when we were both mods at the other place and got tired of answering the EXACT SAME QUESTIONS

 

beautiful write up and advice!! these are things they don't warn you about. this is why if you are going to run boost, it should be done from the inside out.

is APE still building the traction bars? it has been a while.

 

lol no idea....like i said the write up is old

if anyone has a set they would be willing to lend me i can get my fabricator guy to make em again

 

JonGTR was selling them.

 

For the spark plugs, i see the cold plugs here They all look in the same price range.
My question which one is better?
Will any in the cold range work fine, or will some work better than others.