balbains324

Hi guys,
I am having trouble tuning the Coupe again, there are 350cc injectors with an SMT-6 but the car is running too rich, I can't lean out the fuel. The engine start is rough because I got 8.8:1 CP pistons but I thought they wouldn't make too much difference the idle control valve is also not connected. I don't have the turbo box fitted but need to use the SMT-6 to tune somehow...the duel rail kit won't fit because my supercharger is already hitting the firewall and I have no space.

The guy at the shop was saying I could be pushing another 20-30hp if I went omex ecu standalone, but that is too expensive. I have already spent money on two SMT-6's, the first one I couldn't even tune because it was a dealer version and was locked pretty much got ripped off by someone on this site $370, then I sent it to denis and it hasn't got to him..been 3 months!!

I don't know what I can do!! Please help...your suggestions are more then welcome hail.gif

Alex01tib

Ok, you definitely didnt get ripped off because we got that SMT-6 in a kit that originated from Tim and didn't need it, so we sold it. We didn't know it was a dealer version, plus we did everything we could to help you get it to work including directing you to denis, i'm sure he'll figure it out for you if it ever makes it to him.

186whp is good for supercharger btw. one guy on here spent money out the ass in mods just to break 200whp with a S/C

Ericy321

And I dont think SMT6 is really a good tuner without the dual rail becasue there is no way to lean it out for idle. So you will most likely have to do soemthing else for tuning as far as I know.

yamaha

As long as you can achieve a near perfect 14.7 for idling conditions, the stock ECU will lean the inejectors out. I think if you use the turbo box, figure out what is wrong with the SMT6, and get a tune you should be able to work out just fine.

Alex01tib

nah you can tune primaries with the SMT-6, use the analog map to alter the MAF signal

Denisst99

you can lean out the analog map (maf or map signal) with the smt-6 much more then with a safc or safc neo...
got a dyno or AFR chart somewhere?

larryinkc

I have an 05 Beta II Tib with the Alpine SC kit and had similar problems with the Unichip that came with it. I put the AEM FIC on it last summer and it's been great since. Cold and hot starts, idle and NA driving are the same as stock. It has an on board MAP sensor for tuning for boost. It controls the fuel delivery by changing the injector signal pulse width instead of playing with the MAF or other ECU signal inputs. I have a set of 34 lb LS2 Chevrolet injectors in my car, tossed the 5 th injector the SC kit came with, and they work fine. The FIC cuts them back to the same fuel output as the stock 190cc injectors untill there is boost. Then use the MAP based fuel table to add extra fuel. It has an O2 sensor signal modifier that I used to lower the O2 sensor voltage during low boost closed loop running to keep the ECU from pulling fuel with the short term fuel trim. Long term fuel trim is staying at .07%. It can retard timing but doesn't advance it. I have had this unit on my car since August and it is working out great. My Tib sat outside a couple of nights in single digit temps and it started and drove like stock.

I don't know if anybody has tried it on an RD Tib yet, might be worth checking out.

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory...CategoryID=116

Mad_john

what i think:

one your pull is way to small you need to run at least 1.0 bar or 0.Bar pully..your running lean because not enuff air in going in

install a FPR/255 in tank and keep the fuel pressure at psi..

inj are to small you need at least 400~500..

what base are you MAP or MAF?

if you are map i can send you the data that i uses.. or at least a base line map..

your mapping is all f***ed up you must do what i do

1. remove the OEM 02 sensor and put in a wide band to get your base line idle.. i set our cars at 13,3~8.

2. when mapping you must do this you must start around town and uses 0-bar as i call it "no boost load" this will give your base line at the bottom end start 1000 rpms and go between 2000~4000 slowly lay into it while you have someone what the AFR you will probably get 9.9 AFR in the beginning.. now this is all done with about 15%~45% throttle. AKA PART LOAD

3. once you get you No boost map set up then you will do some pulls in 3 and 4 at this time you will want to check your timing Via the notebook your using or the EGT'S and AFR as well... this will take about 2~3 hours depending on what you have.. theses next runs you will do rolling starts and slowly bring on the boost 0.3/.4/.5/.6/.7/.8/.9/1.0bar. you will what to check them at half and full loads... i

i know this sound confusing as hell but this is road mapping and this is how we do it here... get me you ## and i will try to call you and explain it in better detail.. theses Korean cars don't have pre-made maps for them you must do it all your self... hell i will have to remap mine because i changed the pistons/rods/inj ... also the AFR gage we use to map and also i will install a new one in my car is a PLX-550 the best

balbains324

Guys,

I just connected the laptop up to the SMT today and I think there is something very wrong with the mapping and global settings. I have no clue what is actually happening so if anyone is willing to take a look at my SMT map that I am running I will send it to them in an email, just pm me your email address.

I have taken screen shots and put them in a word file too.

The deflection at full throttle is only 88% and at closed is 11% I dont know what is going on. It could be because my idle control valve is not connected but I don't know, shall I connect that back up??

I don't have a wideband but have the smt hooked up to the o2 sensor and temperature sensor.

I can also modify the ignition timing because I have it hooked up to the cam signals.

My fuel economy is like 16 miles to the gallon so I know the tuning is off!!

The cold start in the morning is a nightmare.

It has the standard cams but 8.8:1 CP Pistons and is MAP sensor, I already have a 255hp fuel pump and an fpr

the car also has a blip at around 1900 rpm...I don't know what that is either.

Please help guys.... hail.gif

Denisst99

this thing isn't tuned at all...

1 record your minimum and maximum throttle points (% numbers on the bottom of the screen)
2 open the scale setting box enter a numbera bit higher then your low throttle point for the low and enter your hig throttle value as is
3 rpm isn't calibrated but it's not that bad
4 you're hooked to the crank or cam sensor? does the SMT6 screen display the same or a close value to the car rpm gauge?
5 you have larger then the stock injectors,so when you're off boost you should havea negative value in the analog map
(exemple at idle it should read around -10, under boost it should be a 0 or a postive value (depending on what yuor ecu can tolerate voltage wise)
6 you have random numbers in the lower part of the map and some very large jump (20 in a box and 127 right over it) i'm quite sure those can be feeled when driving the car

BTW if you want,
go to your smt-6 folder (most of the time C:\Program Files\SMT6Win ) and if you saved it your actua l mapo should be there) this might be usufull if you want to send it to someone to check it out),much better then some print screens