i was warned of tranny issues once a tib boosted with turbo. how true are these issues. and what exactly are they.

 

stick or auto? How much boost? Once you up the power of a car beyond what it was designed for, you inflect all sorts of stress on it. Those parts most directly affected by the added power will be the most at risk

 

- Synchros (They barely like power over stock, especially the 1-2 synchros)
- Front diff (probably need an LSD anyway)
- Clutch (not meant for that much power, obviously)
- Overheating issues (If you drive the car extremely hard)

 

well, if you are careful with shifting, Syncros should not be affected by the HP your engine is pushing. They are only used to speed up the next gear to match the speed of the engine.

I would think anything over about 175 hp (crank) WILL need an LSD.. it is optional until then.

I can smoke the clutch with a stock engine... so that is a must

and yes.. add an oilcooler, if you are running an auto, consider a heavy duty transmission cooler like they install on cars that tow trailers. The stock cooler uses the coolant of the car, which is close if not at the boiling point when running. A cooler for a towing package uses airflow through the grill.. it is bound to be cooler than stock.

 

mad, could u possibly get on aim?

well all i can say is lsd are expensive as hell, so i cant get one for a while, i have my turbo kit, but then heard about these problems. would a stock clutch for a couple weeks mess it up, will the 6 point thing on hp work? and the oil cooler, also on hp. is it going to be unbearable w/o lsd? or just lots of spin, i assume uve seen what i ordered...


i was planning like 9-10 psi but that sounds bad now, as i wont have my clutch ordered for at least a week. manual. and should i look at saving for a lsd b5 oil cooler, or buy the oil cooler then the lsd.

its going to be driven a lot, as a daily driver, so i need to get it as reliable as possible, quickly.

 

You want to push power with FWD, you need an LSD. 9-10PSI means your going to be up above what the stock differential can take and what common sense tells you you can run without the right way to put the power down to the ground.

Limited slips just aren't for traction off the launch. Say your driving in the rain, after getting groceries for Grandma (daily driver). It begins to rain. You take a curve going 40mph in 4th gear @ 2000RPM, not making any boost. You hit a patch of water, your front diff transfers the power to the wheel with the least resistance, you spin and create boost, you travel out of water and the wheel gets traction, you spin and go into a tree/guardrail/pedestrian.


6-point thing? Ham begins to think you may be in over your head...

 

isnt the stock osd good for 250? ill only be at like 235ish. also apparently a lot of dsms above 300 whp dont have lsds.

also its late, and my bad. 6-PUC.

http://shop.hyundaiperformance.com/shop/it...?i=ACT_HY1-HDR6

 

Ever wonder why there are so many wrecked DSMs? lol.gif Comparing Eclipse GS-Ts and 3000GT VR-4s to a Hyundai Tiburon's open differentials is like comparing catfish to crawdads. They may start with the same letter, but they are in no way the same device.

If you want to push 10psi on the stock diff, thats fine. I wouldn't, but thats me. You probably will be fine. You said you wanted reliability. I can only tell you what I would do. Mad is even worse than me, he says 175 to the CRANK will max out the open diff. Your talking 235 to the WHEELS.

 

Plenty of people are running 10psi+ on stock dif with no problems. I'm one of them. I've been running 10psi+ for 2 years. But that doesn't mean that it's not gonna break like everything else if you mistreat it by peeling out all the time.

A couple people are also running this much power with autos. Tim was running 17psi on his auto.

You don't need an oil cooler for a manual tranny. They're aka tranny coolers.

 

I ran 10 psi all last year with stock diff. Zero Problems