things to look out for?
ok, my turbo is being ordered on saturday installed in 2 weeks. i have complete faith in my guy, and i know he knows his S@$#, but for efficiency's sake, can anyone think of particulars about turboing a beta engine, things it likes and doesn't like. i'm talking about like if you know the timing doesn't like to be advanced more than ___ degrees, or "make sure you know the ___ sensor is the _____ type" things like that. just anything anyone can offer that might save me some head banging against the wall. thanks.
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
To be honest, I can't tell ya what to watch out for, untill I know what parts you are using.
No sense in me warning you about the stock injectors if you are going to install 440cc units. No sense in me warning you away from 1000cc injectors if you're not using them...
Can you post a parts list?
Injectors?
Turbo?
ECU/Fuel Managment?(SAFC?)
Target HP?
No sense in me warning you about the stock injectors if you are going to install 440cc units. No sense in me warning you away from 1000cc injectors if you're not using them...
Can you post a parts list?
Injectors?
Turbo?
ECU/Fuel Managment?(SAFC?)
Target HP?
sorry random, it's gonna be a full CNK setup which is pretty complete. 550cc injectors, cnk manifold, T3/T4 turbo, cnk intercooler, Tial wastegate is i think what he uses. and i'll be running a haltech e6k (red?) the only thing i'm not getting from chris at CNK is the ECU and a KORE stage 3 and a fidanza flywheel. it's a DD, so i'm going for the max hp below the mark where i have to start worrying about breaking my differential, or frying one of the kits hyper u pistons, so about 250 at the wheels for racing purposes. and about 10 psi. but be honest, for just everyday driving around, as long as i'm not launching like i'm at the track, shouldn't a setup like this be able to handle 300 whp? i realize the parts we say have their limits in that range, but isn't that really just if you're exposing them to racing conditions (launching, slamming your foot on the gas in every gear)? batlord has had his at 15 psi for a while now, and i know that's just driving it from here to there. and he hasn't broke anything. i'm just trying to find out what to look for tuningwise. thanks
Super Moderator

Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,851
Likes: 2
From: Rancho Palos Verdes, CA
Vehicle: 2008 Toyota Prius 2006 Suzuki SV650S
Using that setup, there are a couple of things to worry about.
#1. Fans. The stock fan setup is inadequate for the extra heat a turbocharger puts into the cooling/oiling system. The "cheap" way is to rewire the AC condenser fan to run any time the car is on, and let the drivers side fan work normally. The "expensive" way is to get a Flex A Lite Slimine 220 dual fan. You'll gain about 2-3 critical inches between the fans and the turbo/exhaust plumbing, plus the fans pull twice as much air as the stockers. They run about $200 bucks.
#2. Oil. I personally only reccomend using Synthetic oil. 15-50 for summer and 5-50 for winter. Synthetic oil can withstand higher temps than "conventional" oil, so it is less likely to coke up the turbo bearings.
#3. Crank Position Sensor.
If you are installing an E6K, you might want to consider replacing your stock Crank Position sensor with the unit from the V6 Delta engine (About $40). The Haltec wants a digital signal, the stock beta sensor returns an analog signal. The haltec has a hard time understanding/translating it, this means you have problems at high RPM's (over 5000). Moving to the digital Delta sensor returns the kind of signal the haltec wants, and it works perfectly (per Red...he was the tester for this). I'm sure Red could help you with the specific E6K settings, but I would reccomend it be done via e-mail.
#4. Fuel
For 250 WHP, I would reccomend a fuel pump upgrade, and I would also plan on using/installing an aftermarket Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR).
#1. Fans. The stock fan setup is inadequate for the extra heat a turbocharger puts into the cooling/oiling system. The "cheap" way is to rewire the AC condenser fan to run any time the car is on, and let the drivers side fan work normally. The "expensive" way is to get a Flex A Lite Slimine 220 dual fan. You'll gain about 2-3 critical inches between the fans and the turbo/exhaust plumbing, plus the fans pull twice as much air as the stockers. They run about $200 bucks.
#2. Oil. I personally only reccomend using Synthetic oil. 15-50 for summer and 5-50 for winter. Synthetic oil can withstand higher temps than "conventional" oil, so it is less likely to coke up the turbo bearings.
#3. Crank Position Sensor.
If you are installing an E6K, you might want to consider replacing your stock Crank Position sensor with the unit from the V6 Delta engine (About $40). The Haltec wants a digital signal, the stock beta sensor returns an analog signal. The haltec has a hard time understanding/translating it, this means you have problems at high RPM's (over 5000). Moving to the digital Delta sensor returns the kind of signal the haltec wants, and it works perfectly (per Red...he was the tester for this). I'm sure Red could help you with the specific E6K settings, but I would reccomend it be done via e-mail.
#4. Fuel
For 250 WHP, I would reccomend a fuel pump upgrade, and I would also plan on using/installing an aftermarket Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR).
Per Random's suggestion #3, do NOT use the stock crank trigger from the BETA engine. Either go to your dealer or call St. Charles Hyundai (800-727-8066) and order the V6 trigger from any year Santa Fe or the newest Tiburon (they're all the same). The part you will ask for is the Crank Position Sensor, should be like $44 + Tax from your dealer or about $35 + shipping from St. Charles.
There is other information that you will need, PM me for it.
There is other information that you will need, PM me for it.
to add, put attention to the fuel, like they suggested you need a pump, my WALBRO went bad after about 4 months, and just recently installed a new one, I'm sending the old one to them, could be it was just a LEMON, never know but I will find out... the injectors are kewl...
Another thing is WIRES, I just recently had major idling problems which partly was the pump and partly we just found out were the VITEK WIRES, I love my sponsors and they were awesome wires until I went Turbo, seems the braids were making the wires even hotter than they should get... so I went with Tony's and Red's suggestions and got the Magnecors, still waiting on them, and I hate it, cause I don't want to drive the car till I get them, should be here tomorrow, with the vitek's once the engine got super hot, it would cause a small misfire, so the MSD had to be bypassed, stock wires were working better, but w/o the MSD... so I suggest you get your hands on some Magnecors...
NOPE I've yet to break anything, but little by little I've been finding stuff that I should have done from the beginning, in truth, the wires thing caught me off guard, never thought of it... but everything else is A OK...
Oh and I would also suggest, with the setup you're going with, to use T-CLAMPS instead of regular clamps, they are a little more expensive, but the best, I was also having problems that at 12psi, the tubes were popping off, and that sucked, cause of course the car would stop boosting... but with the t-clamps forget that now, no more fear of it...
good luck and let us know if you have more questions
Another thing is WIRES, I just recently had major idling problems which partly was the pump and partly we just found out were the VITEK WIRES, I love my sponsors and they were awesome wires until I went Turbo, seems the braids were making the wires even hotter than they should get... so I went with Tony's and Red's suggestions and got the Magnecors, still waiting on them, and I hate it, cause I don't want to drive the car till I get them, should be here tomorrow, with the vitek's once the engine got super hot, it would cause a small misfire, so the MSD had to be bypassed, stock wires were working better, but w/o the MSD... so I suggest you get your hands on some Magnecors...
NOPE I've yet to break anything, but little by little I've been finding stuff that I should have done from the beginning, in truth, the wires thing caught me off guard, never thought of it... but everything else is A OK...
Oh and I would also suggest, with the setup you're going with, to use T-CLAMPS instead of regular clamps, they are a little more expensive, but the best, I was also having problems that at 12psi, the tubes were popping off, and that sucked, cause of course the car would stop boosting... but with the t-clamps forget that now, no more fear of it...
good luck and let us know if you have more questions
QUOTE
Bat Lord:
Another thing is WIRES, I just recently had major idling problems which partly was the pump and partly we just found out were the VITEK WIRES, I love my sponsors and they were awesome wires until I went Turbo, seems the braids were making the wires even hotter than they should get... so I went with Tony's and Red's suggestions and got the Magnecors, still waiting on them, and I hate it, cause I don't want to drive the car till I get them, should be here tomorrow, with the vitek's once the engine got super hot, it would cause a small misfire, so the MSD had to be bypassed, stock wires were working better, but w/o the MSD... so I suggest you get your hands on some Magnecors...
Just out of curiousity... didnt the libra racing team go with a stock ignition and STOCK wires?Another thing is WIRES, I just recently had major idling problems which partly was the pump and partly we just found out were the VITEK WIRES, I love my sponsors and they were awesome wires until I went Turbo, seems the braids were making the wires even hotter than they should get... so I went with Tony's and Red's suggestions and got the Magnecors, still waiting on them, and I hate it, cause I don't want to drive the car till I get them, should be here tomorrow, with the vitek's once the engine got super hot, it would cause a small misfire, so the MSD had to be bypassed, stock wires were working better, but w/o the MSD... so I suggest you get your hands on some Magnecors...
I know why you have the MSD batlord... im not picking a fight here, just curious
smile.gif
From what I understand the LIBRA team had the chip reprogrammed or they were using something aftermarket... Tony should know a little more about them, that was so long ago, I didn't even know what a turbo was back then
QUOTE
im not picking a fight here, just curious
hehehe don't worry about me it's kewl
thanks guys. tony,
1 i will be replacing the fans probably the flex a lite ones.
2 i already use synthetic oil
3 a CPS out of the delta will work? no kidding. well then i guess i'll have to stroll down to the dealer and pick one up.
4 with the CNK kit is a bosch 10 bar pump
i'll pick up some magnecors too, thanks yuri.
red, i'm sure i'll have haltech related questions, so i'll ask you when i get to them. by the way, if my mechanic can't get one at a better price, whats a decent price for an E6k off ebay in the box. they mosly go between 900-1100
1 i will be replacing the fans probably the flex a lite ones.
2 i already use synthetic oil
3 a CPS out of the delta will work? no kidding. well then i guess i'll have to stroll down to the dealer and pick one up.
4 with the CNK kit is a bosch 10 bar pump
i'll pick up some magnecors too, thanks yuri.
red, i'm sure i'll have haltech related questions, so i'll ask you when i get to them. by the way, if my mechanic can't get one at a better price, whats a decent price for an E6k off ebay in the box. they mosly go between 900-1100



