Revotibs Evo 8 Turbo build
09-04-2010, 07:46 AM
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Revotibs Evo 8 Turbo build
So after deciding to keep my tiburon I started collecting parts to piece together a turbo kit. A week later im starting to put everything together.
Short list of what I have collected so far.
Aem Fic
Aem uego wideband
Eclipse gsx fuel pump
Volvo 330cc injectors
Ebay RRFPR
OBX Evo 8 Turbo manifold
Evo 8 turbo with 12k on it (has a slight shaft play but is no where near touching the housing hopefully it will be okay.)
Turbo xs downpipe for evo 8
Ebay return line and feed line
Ebay catch can
Ebay SQV BOV
So in the first day I bored and tried to port the evo manifold to the best of my ability with a dremel. the down pipe actually fits nice around the crankcase with plenty of room. I just cut the 3" downpipe after it bended around the pan and Im just going to weld a flex pipe to the downpipe and then weld O2 bungs after the flexpipe. So that covers exhaust.
For the cold piping the evo has a 1.75 inch cold pipe coming off the turbo so ill have to make up an adapter to 2.5 somehow, other than that im just hoping the seal on the adapter pipe for my cheapo SQV BOV holds.
For the Fueling I gotta figure out how to hook up the FPR (not sure what nipples are to the rail and to the return line. And I have yet to install my Volvo injectors.
For the water lines I picked some line at advance but im not sure if i should T into the throttle body lines or if i should just remove the lines to the tb and just route them to the turbo.
Oil lines- I didnt even start these yet. I got a bulkhead fitting so hopefully I can install that to the oil pan without it leaking all over the place. And my EVO 8 OIL RETURN LINE OFF EBAY, does not even come close to fitting the evo 8 turbo. fp.gif
And finally the evo wastegate. I have no clue how im going to get around this. Ive just found out that the evo 8 is suppose to be internally gated at 19 psi so im going to have to find a way to reduce it all the way to 5psi some how (ive got no clue how to do this without ridiculous boost creep) for initial tuning.
Ill add pics once I get to work, but its my dream to make a build thread like this so here is a start.
Short list of what I have collected so far.
Aem Fic
Aem uego wideband
Eclipse gsx fuel pump
Volvo 330cc injectors
Ebay RRFPR
OBX Evo 8 Turbo manifold
Evo 8 turbo with 12k on it (has a slight shaft play but is no where near touching the housing hopefully it will be okay.)
Turbo xs downpipe for evo 8
Ebay return line and feed line
Ebay catch can
Ebay SQV BOV
So in the first day I bored and tried to port the evo manifold to the best of my ability with a dremel. the down pipe actually fits nice around the crankcase with plenty of room. I just cut the 3" downpipe after it bended around the pan and Im just going to weld a flex pipe to the downpipe and then weld O2 bungs after the flexpipe. So that covers exhaust.
For the cold piping the evo has a 1.75 inch cold pipe coming off the turbo so ill have to make up an adapter to 2.5 somehow, other than that im just hoping the seal on the adapter pipe for my cheapo SQV BOV holds.
For the Fueling I gotta figure out how to hook up the FPR (not sure what nipples are to the rail and to the return line. And I have yet to install my Volvo injectors.
For the water lines I picked some line at advance but im not sure if i should T into the throttle body lines or if i should just remove the lines to the tb and just route them to the turbo.
Oil lines- I didnt even start these yet. I got a bulkhead fitting so hopefully I can install that to the oil pan without it leaking all over the place. And my EVO 8 OIL RETURN LINE OFF EBAY, does not even come close to fitting the evo 8 turbo. fp.gif
And finally the evo wastegate. I have no clue how im going to get around this. Ive just found out that the evo 8 is suppose to be internally gated at 19 psi so im going to have to find a way to reduce it all the way to 5psi some how (ive got no clue how to do this without ridiculous boost creep) for initial tuning.
Ill add pics once I get to work, but its my dream to make a build thread like this so here is a start.
09-04-2010, 08:19 AM
#2
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RIGHT ON MAN!!! Another Evo VIII turbo build!! You will be SURPRISINGLY happy with the results. Yep, a few things will need to be modified. You'll need to fudge the bolt holes on the manifold, and slightly open up the exhaust ports to match your head better. I used a copper gasket for my RD1 to trace onto the flange of the evo manifold and used a dremel to open things up. Take a while. Would have been easier if I had access to a drill press.
As far as the wastegate, you're not gonna get any lower than around 11 psi. So.....you may want to look into getting an adjustable wastegate. They are a little expensive, but you'll be able to adjust it from 2 lbs all the way to 20+, depending on what brand and how many springs they have available. What I did was take my old t3/t4 5psi wastegate and made a bracket for it to fit the TD05HR. If you look really close, its a little rigged, but works very well. Still using it to this day.
Dump pipe and downpipe's off ebay work great!!! Thats what I used. Its SOOOOO close to lining up with the stock exhaust!!! You may have to get medieval on the oil pan. I did. Gently, GENTELY massage the oil pan with a 5lb sledge to allow enough room for the downpipe to sneak by. you actually have to massage it quite a bit, but be carefull. You dont want to put a big hole in your oil pan!!
If you have an OEM TB, you can just cap the coolant inlets on the TB and tap into the main coolant pipes right there. I actually have an RSide TB so they where looped anyway. Works great as you have an inlet and outlet, exactly what you need for the turbo's water cooling.
Dont sweat the coldpiping. You have options. I used silicone adapters/steppers to get things to fit. Scour ebay and your sure to find some 1.75" to 2.5" silicone adapters. Try to get 4 ply as they will hold up better. You'll pay a bit more, but in the end, you'll be happier.
I'm using an adapter for my BOV and so far so good! Its even a cheap ebay BOV that, so far, is holding up great. I doubt it would hold for serious power, say 17+PSI, but 'll never push that much. When this one stops holding boost consistently, I'll upgrade. For now, I'm happy with the 24.99 I spent on it. Allowed me to put money in other places like a Walboro 255 and Aeromotive FPR.
Oil lines are a pain. Plumbing sucks. I remember that part taking the longest. Whether its oil line plumbing, water/coolant plumbing,/fuel plumbing, or the fun part, your chargepipe plumbing, it takes time and you'll be surprised how it nickels and dimes you to death, so be prepared.
One suggestion I have is to make sure you bead roll all your charge piping, especially if you just use a universal chargepipe kit off of ebay. A cheap and easy way to do it is to go to advanced or checker autoparts (autozone rents tools as well) and rent their tailpipe expander that goes to 3". Use a heavey duty hose clamp on the end furthest away from the end of the expander and stick the other end of the expander in the aluminum pipe and expand it. You'll get a nice bulged bead on the end of your charge pipes that will aid in keeping your silicone couplers on during boost situations. smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif
Thats all I can think of for ya now. So many great minds on here, you are in a good place man!!! I'm sure others will chime in with their own suggestions and tips.
Good luck man!! Throw some pics up soon!
As far as the wastegate, you're not gonna get any lower than around 11 psi. So.....you may want to look into getting an adjustable wastegate. They are a little expensive, but you'll be able to adjust it from 2 lbs all the way to 20+, depending on what brand and how many springs they have available. What I did was take my old t3/t4 5psi wastegate and made a bracket for it to fit the TD05HR. If you look really close, its a little rigged, but works very well. Still using it to this day.
Dump pipe and downpipe's off ebay work great!!! Thats what I used. Its SOOOOO close to lining up with the stock exhaust!!! You may have to get medieval on the oil pan. I did. Gently, GENTELY massage the oil pan with a 5lb sledge to allow enough room for the downpipe to sneak by. you actually have to massage it quite a bit, but be carefull. You dont want to put a big hole in your oil pan!!
If you have an OEM TB, you can just cap the coolant inlets on the TB and tap into the main coolant pipes right there. I actually have an RSide TB so they where looped anyway. Works great as you have an inlet and outlet, exactly what you need for the turbo's water cooling.
Dont sweat the coldpiping. You have options. I used silicone adapters/steppers to get things to fit. Scour ebay and your sure to find some 1.75" to 2.5" silicone adapters. Try to get 4 ply as they will hold up better. You'll pay a bit more, but in the end, you'll be happier.
I'm using an adapter for my BOV and so far so good! Its even a cheap ebay BOV that, so far, is holding up great. I doubt it would hold for serious power, say 17+PSI, but 'll never push that much. When this one stops holding boost consistently, I'll upgrade. For now, I'm happy with the 24.99 I spent on it. Allowed me to put money in other places like a Walboro 255 and Aeromotive FPR.
Oil lines are a pain. Plumbing sucks. I remember that part taking the longest. Whether its oil line plumbing, water/coolant plumbing,/fuel plumbing, or the fun part, your chargepipe plumbing, it takes time and you'll be surprised how it nickels and dimes you to death, so be prepared.
One suggestion I have is to make sure you bead roll all your charge piping, especially if you just use a universal chargepipe kit off of ebay. A cheap and easy way to do it is to go to advanced or checker autoparts (autozone rents tools as well) and rent their tailpipe expander that goes to 3". Use a heavey duty hose clamp on the end furthest away from the end of the expander and stick the other end of the expander in the aluminum pipe and expand it. You'll get a nice bulged bead on the end of your charge pipes that will aid in keeping your silicone couplers on during boost situations. smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif
Thats all I can think of for ya now. So many great minds on here, you are in a good place man!!! I'm sure others will chime in with their own suggestions and tips.
Good luck man!! Throw some pics up soon!
09-04-2010, 08:36 AM
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I think thats how to post pictures hopefully they show up.
Taken with a iphone so there not the best.
Hey thanks for the help man, defiantly some tips I havent read about there that will come into use.
Maybe ill try to adjust the actuator down to 11ish psi and try to tune it from there carefully.
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09-05-2010, 10:37 PM
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^ It doesnt bolt right up the holes do need to be enlarged. Only one stud is off by much and that is the bottom right.
In other news, injectors are installed and I played around more with how im going to route my exhaust.
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now would be a great time to make fun of my welds.
Basically I cut my 3" downpipe and welded it to the lip of a 2" flexpipe. This is super temp and may not even get run im just waiting for the proper reducers to go from 3 to 2 inches.
I have looked around at oil catch breather and pcv setups but i have not seen one like this. Can anyone tell me if this will work? I currently have the breather and pcv Td then routed to a catch can with a breather filter on it. I dont really get why there would be a need for two seperate oil catch can setups.
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In other news, injectors are installed and I played around more with how im going to route my exhaust.
<script src='http://img7.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=picture001phq.jpg' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>
</noscript><script src='http://img202.imageshack.us/shareable/?i=picture003em.jpg' type='text/javascript'></script><noscript>
</noscript>now would be a great time to make fun of my welds.
Basically I cut my 3" downpipe and welded it to the lip of a 2" flexpipe. This is super temp and may not even get run im just waiting for the proper reducers to go from 3 to 2 inches.
I have looked around at oil catch breather and pcv setups but i have not seen one like this. Can anyone tell me if this will work? I currently have the breather and pcv Td then routed to a catch can with a breather filter on it. I dont really get why there would be a need for two seperate oil catch can setups.
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09-06-2010, 05:38 AM
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The catch can should be fine,basically the same as mine cept you joined with a t and only have one line...The build is coming along sweet!,dont worry,running a good bead comes with practice.
09-06-2010, 08:32 PM
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Scoupe you were one of the ones that inspired me with your thread almost a year ago
Update.
Spent all freaking day trying to get a the feed line figured out. Nobody around here has metric fittings. I have to decide if I want to wait for metric ones to come of the internet or if I should buy a tap set and try to tap the standard fittings to metric. Or I could tap my turbo to 1/2 npt... LOL. wacko.gif Other than that I put my oil pan back on (hopefully permatex gray holds and wont leak oil.
So yeah, today was a total loss.
Update.
Spent all freaking day trying to get a the feed line figured out. Nobody around here has metric fittings. I have to decide if I want to wait for metric ones to come of the internet or if I should buy a tap set and try to tap the standard fittings to metric. Or I could tap my turbo to 1/2 npt... LOL. wacko.gif Other than that I put my oil pan back on (hopefully permatex gray holds and wont leak oil.
So yeah, today was a total loss.
09-10-2010, 08:35 PM
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Update.
Got her running today. I had to try forever to find out that the fuel pressure regulator had to be set around 20-40psi for it to idle correctly.
Didnt get to tune it with the fic yet. Just mad some passes up and down my street boosting around 3-5psi Afr stayed around 10-13. It pulled great.
No matter what i set the fpr to, Im getting really lean at idle (18afr) so hopefully when I get around to tuning it I can curve that using the fic.
Other than that I have a small exhaust leak to fix and a small oil leak at the turbo. (drip every minnute or so..)
Got her running today. I had to try forever to find out that the fuel pressure regulator had to be set around 20-40psi for it to idle correctly.
Didnt get to tune it with the fic yet. Just mad some passes up and down my street boosting around 3-5psi Afr stayed around 10-13. It pulled great.
No matter what i set the fpr to, Im getting really lean at idle (18afr) so hopefully when I get around to tuning it I can curve that using the fic.
Other than that I have a small exhaust leak to fix and a small oil leak at the turbo. (drip every minnute or so..)