Quick Dyno Video
05-30-2006, 10:44 PM
#1
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For some reason every day i tune its over 90 out... today it was 95 here in BUFFALO!!!!
so i didnt get a chance to really lean into the car, just put down some good tuning sessions
i also blew my alternator during the session so i had to stop @ 12psi on my gt35r
but here is the videoo
these sessions are somewhere in the upper 3's i dont remember which one this is exactly but thats about where we ended
http://www.viper966.com/35rshort.wmv
i gotta get a honda half core radiator cuz the car doesnt like to be on the dyno with the front bumper on cuz the rad doesnt get much air behind a 4" thich FMIC
so i didnt get a chance to really lean into the car, just put down some good tuning sessions
i also blew my alternator during the session so i had to stop @ 12psi on my gt35r
but here is the videoo
these sessions are somewhere in the upper 3's i dont remember which one this is exactly but thats about where we ended
http://www.viper966.com/35rshort.wmv
i gotta get a honda half core radiator cuz the car doesnt like to be on the dyno with the front bumper on cuz the rad doesnt get much air behind a 4" thich FMIC
05-31-2006, 07:57 AM
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon, 2004 Kia Sorento, 2010 Kia Soul
His alternator is like an inch from his downpipe.
Jon, he said he's post a few up today, it was late last night when he finally got this posted and the alt replaced.
Jon, he said he's post a few up today, it was late last night when he finally got this posted and the alt replaced.
05-31-2006, 08:42 AM
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now that ive slept here is how the day went:
woke up @ 8am and put the car back together, changed the oil, and checked the coolant
it was 94 by 2pm... now i live in buffalo, and its NEVER in the 90's but it has been teh last two times ive tuned
so i drive from my house to the tuner to pick him up to make the trip to jamestown to use a mustang dyno because of the variable load.
Variable load is great for tuning a haltech because ic an dial in as much load as i want at any RPM point, which leads to better maps and more importantly more power.
the whole drive down my car is threatening to overheat.... it was running around 208 degrees er so and i had to turn the heat on in my car when it was 90 outside, so it was about 115 inside the car...
So we start off doing alot of variable load tuning just go to 3k rpm turn up the load on the dyno with a dial in your hand and keep ur car at 3k rpm by pressing the gas... we would do this for specific boost levels through the Range then move up the next one
Starting at 8psi (my wastegate spring) and working up to 14 took about 3 hours.... every once and a while we would do a full boost run though, but didnt do that alot because we were expecting to go to about 28psi er so and do final power runs tehre
at around 12psi the car started acting funny, the idle was really surgy and it stopped making power after 12 psi... so we did a couple more runs then the car REALLY didnt want to idle... so we do the checks and notice the bat is at 10 volts... so we had to cut our time short and pull the car off the dyno so i could change the alternator and drive from jamestown to buffalo.
the only sheets i have are from the power run we made like half way through the day, i believe its at like 8psi because i wanted a sheet to know what my car was at when the boost controller is off... ill post that sheet later today
woke up @ 8am and put the car back together, changed the oil, and checked the coolant
it was 94 by 2pm... now i live in buffalo, and its NEVER in the 90's but it has been teh last two times ive tuned
so i drive from my house to the tuner to pick him up to make the trip to jamestown to use a mustang dyno because of the variable load.
Variable load is great for tuning a haltech because ic an dial in as much load as i want at any RPM point, which leads to better maps and more importantly more power.
the whole drive down my car is threatening to overheat.... it was running around 208 degrees er so and i had to turn the heat on in my car when it was 90 outside, so it was about 115 inside the car...
So we start off doing alot of variable load tuning just go to 3k rpm turn up the load on the dyno with a dial in your hand and keep ur car at 3k rpm by pressing the gas... we would do this for specific boost levels through the Range then move up the next one
Starting at 8psi (my wastegate spring) and working up to 14 took about 3 hours.... every once and a while we would do a full boost run though, but didnt do that alot because we were expecting to go to about 28psi er so and do final power runs tehre
at around 12psi the car started acting funny, the idle was really surgy and it stopped making power after 12 psi... so we did a couple more runs then the car REALLY didnt want to idle... so we do the checks and notice the bat is at 10 volts... so we had to cut our time short and pull the car off the dyno so i could change the alternator and drive from jamestown to buffalo.
the only sheets i have are from the power run we made like half way through the day, i believe its at like 8psi because i wanted a sheet to know what my car was at when the boost controller is off... ill post that sheet later today
05-31-2006, 01:16 PM
#8
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Can you post whatever dyno sheet you have in this thread along with the important car info. fing02.gif
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=16281
http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=16281
05-31-2006, 01:38 PM
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Viper.. do you have an aftermarket throttle body?
Not sure which one is it.. but one of them has a butterfly that doesnt really "seal".
It was the cause for my annoying bouncy idle. I switched to the stock TB and left it at about 1-2% open at idle and my car is idleling fine.
As far as the voltage... a regulator helps with the "bounciness".
f*** im writting like a 4th grader. My apologies, just tied up at work.
Not sure which one is it.. but one of them has a butterfly that doesnt really "seal".
It was the cause for my annoying bouncy idle. I switched to the stock TB and left it at about 1-2% open at idle and my car is idleling fine.
As far as the voltage... a regulator helps with the "bounciness".
f*** im writting like a 4th grader. My apologies, just tied up at work.
05-31-2006, 06:48 PM
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the new alternator cleared up the voltage issues... the car is now pulling alot harder then it did, so i think that issue is taken care of, unfortunatly i have to take my car apart this week to finish DP fabricatoin for a couple turbo kits, so thats a big PITA right there, so expect new dyno time in about 3 weeks