The last couple days I've had a cel and I'm getting progressively leaner.

Actually let me go over the sequence of events.

1.reset ecu and setup map.
2. redid map like 3 times. (see other thread)
3. Got car running rather well. (see other thread)
4. Ran good for a few days and then I got a cel and it got a little lean (14 afr in boost) so I decided to reset the ecu. (after all the tuning I'd done I figured that would fix it)
5. Ran good for a few days and got cel again. (I thought that maybe the smt had lost the map but it hadn't)
6. keeps getting leaner (like 15afr in boost now, normally 12-13)

current map


I thought that the ecu wouldn't flip out with smaller numbers like that. Is the dual rail the only solution?

Current Setup:
T3 super 60 internal gated
8 psi
recirculated dsm 1g bov
stock fpr
gsx fuel pump
440cc injectors
smt-6 (with the above map)

 

did you tune the smt-6 while using your long term and short term fuel trims ? (need scan tool)
the way i look at your map, you have too much fuel almost everywhere and ECU must be way off fuel trim wise

wich codes did you get?

BTW,
in the global setting tab, what are your analog settings?
(zero in calibration, fuel lower and upper)
did you check the voltage drop across the smt6 analog input and output? if you have one correct it using the zero in calibration function
keep in mind that even if you put postives numbers at high RPM/high boost,they won't do anything
ECU wants to see a max of around 5.2 volts so.. when the MAF is maxed out (around 4000 rpm @ 4-5 psi) it's already putting out around 5 volts with your "16" (at wot) the ecu sees around 5.3-5.4 volts wich is a bit useless


i guess the turbo box we have could help you a lot, the 1st design seamed to create a lean spot on cars with only larger injectors but worked well on cars with dual fuel rails our newest (3rd)design (yes Jay you'll get one cool.gif ) won't create that "lean" spot and should work well in your case,it will keep the computer a bit more happy and won't let it mess around your fuel map if you set it up well properly

in the worst case, you'll have it for your dual rail set up

 

I haven't checked the codes because I'm assuming it's going to be something along the lines of maf going crasy!

I'll check the voltage, just need to pick up my multimeter at the office tomorrow. wink1.gif

Denis would you have an example of what you mean as far as the maps. I thought I was using rather small numbers when I saw yamaha's (my first map had a max of about 4 or 5). Should all of my columns be about the same as the first?

Looks like I need to read the smt6 manual in more depth, I guess a quick skim isn't cutting it. owned.gif

btw, when is the turbo "magic" box hitting the market?

edit: I'll check on the fuel upper and lower.

ok, I just checked it's 9.99 and .00, so I'm guessing I should set it to a max of 5.2?

 

for the first two rows you want to almost divide the MAF voltage by 2
so on the left side of the smt6 screen you can set up the display, set it up to see the analog in and analog out volts
if you have 0.400 in put negative number in the "in use" box in the tuning map until the voltage gets close to 0.200 (you have 2 x larger injectors so at idle/low load you want to divide the fuel pulse by 2)put this number in all the first two rows boxes to get and quick baseline map,once car is running semi-well use the fuel trims to set up the other "unboosted" boxes

checking codes is the first thing to do before doing anything else,this helps you see the problem/understand what's happening to the ecu

fuel lower should be around 0.12
fuel upper i'd say somewhere between 4.9 to 5.3 (some cars seam to have a return voltage on the ground circuit wich affects this value)

but the first step is to hook up a voltmeter to the analog in and out wire and see if you have a voltage drop, then adjust it with thr zero in calibration function (with dual rail it's not critical but in your case it's a bit more important)

i guess i could get one turbo box for you if you want one ;-)

 

wow! thats alot of info! I'll get to work! drillsergeant.gif

Thanks alot!!

edit: btw, when you say rows, do you mean the vertical columns (like were you click to change the whole column) or horizontal rows?

 

yup vertical ones ;-)
in the first two rows you'll never have boost anyway ;-) so if you screw up you won't have any problems ;-)

 

I have used a multimeter before to verify my maf voltage and it is pretty close to the Analog In values that the SMT-6 is putting out... use that as your reference!

for your map.. based on experience, the the value -5 seem a little rich still (i'm pretty sure that is why you are gettign a cel code). one way to figure out your base value (idle... very first column) is to reset the ecu then watch the afr wideband reading and the obd scan tool fuel trims very closely as you lean out the fuel (use the hotkeys) oh yeah, make sure that the car is already warmed up at this time (because the ecu is on open loop when you first start it) . Once you get a value on the smt-6 that gets you really close to 14.7 afr and very close to 0% on the short term fuel trims, then that would be your base or idle value and you wont have to worry about any cel. From there it's all bout adding fuel now

Oh yeah, it is very importand to read your cel's as soon as it come up right away... don't just ignore it! this is a very important guide that will help you troubleshoot the problem.



yes, the denis' turbo "magic" box will help you and might not need the dual rail with this installed. also, according to denis, the 3rd version is much better and but it will be wired differently compared to it's predecessors... so my current wiring diagram for it wont be valid. I have to wait for this new one to find out... but i'm quite happy with the curent one though (no more crazy leaning out before hitting open loop mode)

Oh supercow, speaking of obd scan tool... i dont need mine anymore, let me know if you want it

 

in your case with the extra fuel injectors it's easy to add more fuel in that specific spot,but in his case it's gonna be much harder,it'S the reason why we came with the last design ;-)

anyway it's one of the reason why we like inputs froim users of our parts,it helps us make a better and easier to use products for you ;-)

 

how much for the obd tool jay? what kind is it that shows you the fuel trims? all the crappy autozone ones I've used in the past didn't have that.

Thanks for all the info guys, I'll try to get some tuning done tomorrow afternoon. smile.gif

 

I got jay's obd scanner in last week and it works pretty awesome! I had some time this weekend to do some more tuning and have come up with this. In a few days I'll be able to tell if the ecu is going to fight it or not. It's running really good now and hasn't thrown a cel yet. I'm sure it needs more tweaking but it's keeping at least the short term trims in check.