This morning i went to hook up an oil pressure
guage and at first i hooked it up at the head the allen plug and only got an oil pressure of
20 psi at idle and max of 40 psi was freaken
now way i change oil way to often for this

so i then remmber someone's post(wonder who ps: thanks bow_down )
about an pressure regulator in between the block and head of the beta 1 so rehooked it at stock
sender location and got 45 psi at idle 85 psi max
all temps warm engine

so it sounds like the head of beta 1 is not a good turbo feed location rolleyes.gif

[ April 19, 2003, 04:37 PM: Message edited by: XtremePc ]

 

yea... its after the oil pressure regulator

 

Go back and read up on the max oil pressure that turbo seals can withstand. That is the PERFECT place to hook up an oil feed line. Turbo oil seals don't like 85 PSI of oil. 20-40 is just fine.

FLOW would be my only concern. At High RPM is the turbo oil line flowing so much oil that the cams or HLA's get starved. I don't think it's much of an issue though, as the Alpine setup uses this method with no oil related worries/problems so far.

I wouldn't put an oil pressure sender on the head, but tapping it for the turbo works, and saves you the trouble of building your own pressure regulator for your turbo oil feed.

[ April 20, 2003, 01:19 AM: Message edited by: Random ]

 

Random,

After I read this post I decided to check my (BetaII head, MLAs) pressure at the turbo inlet. On Idle I'm running about 50psi, and it just goes up from there. So, do you think that I've already blown my seals on the Alpine turbo kit since it was designed for a BetaI, HLA head?
Do you know where to get a Oil pressure regulator?

(Sorry to hijack, but since its on topic I didn't think a new post was necessary... smile.gif )

 

You don't necessarily "blow" the seals, you just "blow BY" the seals... smile.gif It would be a good idea to knock that pressure down, although your guess is as good as mine for the proper way to do it.

I would assume you build one of two options:

A simple one-way granger (sp?) valve to limit the oil flow coming into the turbo like a sink faucet. The good: it's cheap and easy. The bad: could starve out the turbo if you don't adjust it right, or it gets knocked around and goofs up.

The second method would be to build some sort of limited return-based oil feed, of which the design is exceeding my brain's rated capacity for Monda mornings wink I have a good picture in my head of what you would need, but I can't think of where to get the necessary regulator part... Or what other type of part might be useable AS a regulator...

The grainger valve would be a useable solution if you could just find a way to make sure it doesn't get knocked around... That, and make sure you start testing when it's fully OPEN and work your way closed.

 

Thanks Jason,

Does the Oil pressure to the turbo need to vary at all? For example does it needs as much pressure sitting at idle as it does when spinning at 80,000+ rpms? When the turbo is spinning faster won't it need more oil/pressure? I'm just worried that if I install some type of valve the turbo will starve at higher RPMs. If so then some type of 'Rising Rate' Regulator would have to be used...man....stupid Hyundai and having to go change everything.... beat_dow

EDIT: So I just got off the phone with John from Alpine and he said that there is no 'real' seals in the turbo to blow out and there is nothing to worry about because the Turbo is designed to run off of engine Oil pressure...now I'm really confused... what_the

[ April 21, 2003, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: David Dickson ]

 

I don't know what he means by "no real seals", there ARE seals in a turbo to keep crap from getting INTO the cartridge, as well as keeping the oil from getting OUT of the cartridge.

You can tell a turbo has bad seals when your charge pipes start filling with oily goo... This is actually one of the first troubleshooting steps you take with a turbocharged car blowing oil (blue) smoke. Old worn out turbos will start leaking around the seals which can also lead to bearing failure.

Ball bearing turbochargers are more susceptible to this kind of leakage because the type of seal is different.

Your turbo doesn't need a set amount of oil pressure per-se, it's more wanting of total flow than pressure. If you can keep it fed with 20-30psi, it will be more than happy. If you start overpressurizing it, the seals will wear out faster.

 

if you look at DSM cars...
firts gens with the Mitsu turbo have the oil line on the cyl.head (they use a restrictor to limit flow to the head)

on second gens with the garett turbo the oil line is right at the oil pump cover

on most custom and kit jobs that i saw oil pressure was take from the oil pressure sender

 

AAAhhh thanks for that you have just answered my questions on why my PSI reading was so low on my oil pressure guage. I have it plumbed into the end of the oil gallarey into that allen plug. I spent ages asking about oil pressures etc and why mine didnt seem to tie in and that seems to be the answer. I think ill leave it there though as im more interested in the pressure to the turbo. Just out of interest did you plumb it onto the place for the stock oil warning light. If you did you dont happen to know the size and thread of that hole do you. Its just i might be putting in a t-piece for an oil feed but i want to keep that stock sender in there aswell.

 

tread size in the engine block is 1/8BSP
(british standard pipe tread)

mot of the time you won't find a T fitting witht that exact tread, use a 1/8NPT (national pipe tread) and go to your local machine shop to have them re-die the male end to 1/8BSP shouldn't cost much