Turbo & Supercharge (Forced Induction) Posts regarding Turbochargers, Superchargers and any other method for Forced Induction.

N/a Questions

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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:18 AM
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Ok considering my recent decision to continue with N/A ive developed a few questions before I start unloading cash.

1. My main concern is fuel. What do I need to run fuel mangement to a highcompression motor? If I went with greddy emanage, wouldnt I need to run a duel fuel rail setup? With that in mind I had the idea to swap in a beta II head with the GK ecu then piggy back that with a Greddy emanage. I figured since the beta 2 head is map based.

2. Am I on way off here?

3. If this setup is possible, is there higher lift/longer duration cams I can get for a CVVT head.

4. Concerning Greddy emanage ingnition fix. Could I just do a coil on plug setup and control it with an MSD 6AL and not worry about the emanage controling it?


If any of this is confusing I can futher explain my intentions, but im mainly the one confused tongue.gif
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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i think you may be able to run a MSD unit to control your ignition seperately from the emanage, but the ignition fix would be much less expensive, and for your application, itll be plenty.

you misewell go with a standalone if your going to run emanage, dual fuel rail, all harnesses, MSD unit.. that would cost around 1000k+ and you could run megasquirt or PRS for that price.

what is the extent of the mods you are going to do? are you just going to be going with like a 1.8L piston setup, and then other mild N/A mods?

or are you going with major highcompression pistons (13:1) full valvetrain, port polish heads, IM, built motor, etc.

because if you are going the more mild route, the SAFC II should be enough to tune what you will need to, as long as you dont go out of the tuning threshhold of the ECU, the SAFC II will be fine.

i would say go with a SAFC II and a MSD unit for your ignition, would cost under 500$ and probably be more than enough if your going with a mild high compression setup.

i have no idea what to tell ya about the CVVT head, GK ECU, or any of that. i would say negative on the GK ECU, unless your planning on switching over to MAP completely, since a GK ECU wouldnt know what to do with the MAF readings.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:59 AM
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Most guys when swapping use the beta 2 (non CVVT) from a 2001-2002 elantra, not the beta 2.5 (CVVT) from the new elantras or tibs.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 11:02 AM
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also, FYI, i dont think the CVVT head fits, and if it does fit, you will need the beta II.5 valve cover, because pile of rd1 just tried the CVVT valve cover on beta and no worky.

so i dont know if the CVVT head will even work on our betas.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 11:22 AM
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Well, Idealy I was thinking to swtich entirely over to MAP based. I dont want to run the duel fuel rail which is why i was asking if i switched toa GK ecu and cut out the MAF completely if it would be better.

Yes I was planning on going with a fully built N/A motor. I figure by the time i get a turbosetup, I might as well have had the money to go with N/A..

I want to go with a Piggyback, but didnt know how to manage fuel for this kinda project. I didnt want to gowith a duel fuel rail setup because I wanted to mount individual coils to a bracket where a second fuel rail could go. So I was thinking if i did the head swap I could have CVVT, MAP based, and not have to worry about duel fuel rail and just go with bigger injectors? or would that not work?
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 11:51 AM
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i dont understand your thinking man... at all.

if your go with a fully built N/A setup its going to cost you alot more than a basic turbo setup, and you wont have anywhere CLOSE to the power of a basic cheaper turbo setup.

you cant just switch to the GK ECU, there will be some wiring, you will have to hook up a MAP, and i think some other minor things. or your could just go with emanage/dual fuel rail. but supposedly your going to have a bracket where the second rail would go?? how? the second rail basically takes the first rails spot and pushes the first rail 1" toward firewall, so you still have the same work space. with all the PITA of head swapping, if itll even work, going MAP based, throwing in a GK ECU, and getting it to work ( i dont know what that will all consist of) you could just get a PRS4, or emanage/dual fuel rail setup for less $$$.

just a little FYI, a fully built N/A motor, with head work, IM work, full valvetrain, machine work, pistons, etc. you will have spent WAYY over the 4000$ mark and your car, depending on the valvetrain to get you high horsepower wont be very streetable. and with 3000$ you could build a nice 250whp turbo setup thats very streetable.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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i hate you socks... lol jkin man, ur right, I just didnt know how i was gonna have the downpipe built and what all to do. Was looking at manifolds on kspec... kinda expensive, talkin like 400-600 for a decent trubo, then like 1000ish for fuel management... I dunno. Sigh, i just dont know what I wanna do nemore. O on top of clutch and flywheel and a new tranny cause I think my second gear synchro is going. Im just lookin at so much money that I dont have to fuel an addiction I cant get rid of (modding the tib). I need to seriously consider starting to mod the areas that would benefit both N/A or F/I then go from there
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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^^^ so so true
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 12:18 PM
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Would anyone who has done the whole emanage / duel rail setup mind helping me with a DIY or just some basic what to do first or where to get kinda thing. I dont need my hand held I just need somewhere to start im getting so frustrated searching and not finding specifics and specifics are what I need.

I dont mean like posting stuff and taking your time but is there anyone I could PM who wouldnt mind answering my specific questions?
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Why would you need a duel fuel rail set up if your just going NA, there is no need at all for it, and converting over to a map based system would be a waste if your going NA since you will most likely make more power using the MAF with an NA car. MAF works better for NA purposes because it can actually sense the increase in air flow that the motor is getting and can adjust fuel better than a map sensor will, a MAP sensor only adjust fuel by manifold pressure which is what you want with a turbo. If your at 0 pressure wide open throttle with a MAP sensor and flowing 45cfm of air or you have mods done and flowing 60cfm of air the map sensor can't sense that difference in air flow so it will use the same fuel settings no matter how much air your flowing it only goes by pressure, if you build a high compression NA engine all you would need is a safc and some high octane fuel and you will be fine, the stock injectors will flow enough for most NA power levels.

If your going turbo you will need a MAP sensor to increase fuel by pressure if your NA stay with the MAF to adjust fuel by airflow.
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