My Dyno Sheet..
#1
Heres my first dyno sheet.. now i'm kinda worried about the a/f .. my car has been tuned already prior to this dyno.
here it is, please feel free to comment and post what you think and what might be wrong.. any help is apprciated..
thanks in advance
NightSharks Dyno
here it is, please feel free to comment and post what you think and what might be wrong.. any help is apprciated..
thanks in advance
NightSharks Dyno
#2
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Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Vehicle: 01 Tiburon
nightshark,
i/we don't recall your setup... can you please let us know?
what fuel management system are you using?
what psi?
from what it looks like you need a little a bit more fuel and my guess is that you are still running the stock injectors and even the stock fuel pump... are you not?
oh noticed how you lost power when it was pig rich... and how power spikes/jumps when the afr is within 12.xx
i/we don't recall your setup... can you please let us know?
what fuel management system are you using?
what psi?
from what it looks like you need a little a bit more fuel and my guess is that you are still running the stock injectors and even the stock fuel pump... are you not?
oh noticed how you lost power when it was pig rich... and how power spikes/jumps when the afr is within 12.xx
#3
T3/T4 Garrett Turbo
2.5 inch charge piping
3 inch intake pipe
AEM dryflow synthetic filter
2.5 inch down pipe
3 inch hiflow CAT
3 inch Custom Exhaust from downpipe back
Vibrant 3 inch Exhaust
38mm Turbosmart Wastegate (blue)
Turbo Smart Supersonic BOV (blue)
Custom Logstyle manifold
Intercooler
Vibrant silicone couplers
Airram intake Manifold
Rside BBTB
Outlaw Thermo IM and TB spacers
1.8 intake cam
AOS underdrive crank pulley
PRD Plug wires (blue)
NGK Plugs (two steps colder)
Greddy Emanage Blue
ACT Streetdisc Clutch
Fidanza 7.5lbs Lightweight Flywheel
yea, i'm still using stock injectors and stock pump. i know i have to change it asap.. but yea, thats what i thought too.. i figured its not getting enough fuel on top end..
just another note, the a/f ratio was taken by a probe in the exhaust.. i know its more accurate to get the reading off a wideband o2 but i couldn't at the time..
how inaccurate is this a/f chart then?
oh and this is on 7 psi
2.5 inch charge piping
3 inch intake pipe
AEM dryflow synthetic filter
2.5 inch down pipe
3 inch hiflow CAT
3 inch Custom Exhaust from downpipe back
Vibrant 3 inch Exhaust
38mm Turbosmart Wastegate (blue)
Turbo Smart Supersonic BOV (blue)
Custom Logstyle manifold
Intercooler
Vibrant silicone couplers
Airram intake Manifold
Rside BBTB
Outlaw Thermo IM and TB spacers
1.8 intake cam
AOS underdrive crank pulley
PRD Plug wires (blue)
NGK Plugs (two steps colder)
Greddy Emanage Blue
ACT Streetdisc Clutch
Fidanza 7.5lbs Lightweight Flywheel
yea, i'm still using stock injectors and stock pump. i know i have to change it asap.. but yea, thats what i thought too.. i figured its not getting enough fuel on top end..
just another note, the a/f ratio was taken by a probe in the exhaust.. i know its more accurate to get the reading off a wideband o2 but i couldn't at the time..
how inaccurate is this a/f chart then?
oh and this is on 7 psi
#4
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Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
I dunno about the probe in the exhaust and how accurate it is.
To be honest, its not OMG my motor is going to die lean, it really only gets to where that becomes a concern a little way past 6000rpm. My GSX is tuned to 12.5:1 which is relatively safe, and you hover around that mark on most of the graph.
If you like the setup as is, the stock fuel pump is probably causing that problem on the high end, not the injectors at this point. A stock GSX fuel pump (~190 lph) or a 190lph fuel pump would be enough to compensate for that and probably richen it down a little bit more all the way thru.
That lil rich spot is damned ugly though. ECU owned you there.
To be honest, its not OMG my motor is going to die lean, it really only gets to where that becomes a concern a little way past 6000rpm. My GSX is tuned to 12.5:1 which is relatively safe, and you hover around that mark on most of the graph.
If you like the setup as is, the stock fuel pump is probably causing that problem on the high end, not the injectors at this point. A stock GSX fuel pump (~190 lph) or a 190lph fuel pump would be enough to compensate for that and probably richen it down a little bit more all the way thru.
That lil rich spot is damned ugly though. ECU owned you there.
#5
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Vehicle: 1997 Tiburon
Holy Jesus thats a nice rich spot dude lol. I bet it was probably lower than a 10:1 lol
You have every other goody on your list, except for the most important upgrades, FUEL smile.gif
With a bigger pump, injectors and tune, you should be good to go. See if you can borrow a wideband 02 from someone local to tune with.
You have every other goody on your list, except for the most important upgrades, FUEL smile.gif
With a bigger pump, injectors and tune, you should be good to go. See if you can borrow a wideband 02 from someone local to tune with.
#6
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
A/f probe in the exhaust is perfectly fine--acurate!
As for your AFR you really need to get the whole rpms band dialed in abit better. You will notice alot smoother power curve and your motor will be ALOT safer. With that AFR your going to be careful & certain your not getting a detination/
Congrats on the 200WHP pull you have a great power band but you REALLY need to work out that AFR before something bad happens.
As for your AFR you really need to get the whole rpms band dialed in abit better. You will notice alot smoother power curve and your motor will be ALOT safer. With that AFR your going to be careful & certain your not getting a detination/
Congrats on the 200WHP pull you have a great power band but you REALLY need to work out that AFR before something bad happens.
#7
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Vehicle: Two 97 RD Tibs and 2010 Genesis Coupe
Nightshark
Very nice Dyno Pull for 7psi.But keep in mind that your A/F ratios are TOO LEAN in the TOP END bro.......
Anything under 4000rpms is OK even at 13-14:1 A/F at WOT but after 4000rpm is very crutal........
Dude your almost near 14-15:1 after 6000rpms...
You have to rememeber real Time Dyno will be slightly different espaically with the colder weather were getting and next thing you know BYE BYE motor 02.gif
Your A/F ratios will defentlt get leaner in this COLDER weather..
I noticed your Temps on the Dyno sheet was at 54F which is pretty cool temp and espically to get the numbers you got at 7psi and stock copreession...
Get a 255 Walboro pump and nice 440cc injectors this way you can lean it down a bit after 4000rpms and will be SAFE.
Ideal would be 11-11.5:A/F at WOT................
Only downside to this is that you might loose a bit of WHP because it will run richer BUT SAFER for you to run higher boost with strong numbers fing02.gif
Very nice Dyno Pull for 7psi.But keep in mind that your A/F ratios are TOO LEAN in the TOP END bro.......
Anything under 4000rpms is OK even at 13-14:1 A/F at WOT but after 4000rpm is very crutal........
Dude your almost near 14-15:1 after 6000rpms...
You have to rememeber real Time Dyno will be slightly different espaically with the colder weather were getting and next thing you know BYE BYE motor 02.gif
Your A/F ratios will defentlt get leaner in this COLDER weather..
I noticed your Temps on the Dyno sheet was at 54F which is pretty cool temp and espically to get the numbers you got at 7psi and stock copreession...
Get a 255 Walboro pump and nice 440cc injectors this way you can lean it down a bit after 4000rpms and will be SAFE.
Ideal would be 11-11.5:A/F at WOT................
Only downside to this is that you might loose a bit of WHP because it will run richer BUT SAFER for you to run higher boost with strong numbers fing02.gif
#8
Moderator
#9
i don't understand though, my car was tuned not too long ago, but it was tuned on the street which should be better, but the a/f on this dyno looks like its not even tuned at all.
i'm plannin to go to the track on this friday to see what i can run. do you think it's a good idea to run while my a/f looks like that and is that lean up top? i'm gonna be shifting around 6000k -6100k and thats just where it starts to lean out..
i'm plannin to go to the track on this friday to see what i can run. do you think it's a good idea to run while my a/f looks like that and is that lean up top? i'm gonna be shifting around 6000k -6100k and thats just where it starts to lean out..
#10
Dont even think of running that on the track. Get the A/F ratio richened in the upper rpm's, then go ahead and take it out to the track. Its not worth blowing your motor and spending $3,000+ just so you can get a print out of your time. Just be patient, and do it right, thats the game with tuning.