faithofadragon

hmmm i think i set the fuel pressure wrong...ive heard our cars run 38psi of fuel pressure and here i thought that was what it ran w/o vacuum



maybe i should kick it up a few lbs until its 38psi with vacuum



imma go test that theory now

radu_rd2

Yeah, I seem to remember something like 38 at idle and 40-something (42?) w/o vacuum.

Turboron_99

Most aftermarket injectors wont operate correctly under a certain psi, I know like the Ford racing Green Tops love 43 or more Psi, under that they sound like lifter tick!



Also I dumbed that sh*t up didnt i, lol Injector Pulse width lol response time.. WTF, anyone want what i am on!!! LOL ITS CALLED RWD!!! LOL

faithofadragon

Well cranked it up a few psi(40psi with vacuum) and it's def the tune, once it gets to about 3200 now its goin way way rich like below 10:1 the as the rpms go up it leans out and stops bucking



No clue as to why it's not rich out until then considering how large the injectors are and how the fuel trims set up although without a scanner I'm dead in the water



I made an appointment with a pro next month, I'll screw around with it until then maybe I can tune it better and not need him



EDIT



after searching around delphi rates my injectors at 750cc @ 43.5 psi

so....should i pump the pressure up to 43.5psi?

radu_rd2

Cool. I'd say it's good where it's at. It should be over 43.5 psi with no vacuum.



So lean the fuel in the map by 10-15% around 3200 and see what happens.



Personally I would start fresh.



Remove the wastegate spring to avoid boost. Initialize the map with constant scaling just based on the injector sizes (all cells should have -X% where X = 100*(1 - stock injector size / 750). Not sure on the stock injector size, if it's 236 then the value needs to be -68.5%. Then screw around with the injector response time until it runs well (similar to stock) and LTFTs are decent.



Once you do that calculate the values you would need to double the fuel and put them for 30PSIA (that's roughly twice the air). Specifically if at 0 to 15PSIA you have -X% in all cells, at 30PSIA you need to put in -Y% on the whole line, where Y = 2*X-100. (so -37% if X is 68.5).



Then interpolate the values in-between 15PSIA and 30PSIA (the software does that if you select the lines and right click, or something). That should be a good starting point. You can maybe enrichen the whole boosted area by 10% or so to have a safer starting point. Then see how she runs. Shutdown if you ever see AFR going over 12-12.5 under boost. Aim for 11 if you are street tuning.

faithofadragon

you know radu....boston is only a short flight little rock if you get my drift







after much science thinking, this is actually making some sorta sense now



i gotta get a scanner so i can monitor the LTFT though....time to order a bluetooth dongle



i setup a "basic" base map based on what you recommended(aems base map creator actually got pretty dang close), ill have to see how that turns out tomorrow, hopefully it at least cranks over



another thing is ive been unplugging the battery as to not have to jump it each time i mess with the car, i bet that doesnt help too much since im clearing the ecu of any data

Stocker

It shouldn't hurt and might actually be a good idea. If you are messing with fueling, computer settings all to default are probably a good starting point when you change something.

radu_rd2

Yeah the AEM base map creator is pretty good.



It's good to reset it once when you start with a completely new map. But once you start to improve a map it's not that great, you need to run with the long term fuel trim that adjusts for your map/fuel pressure/etc being slightly rich or lean.



If the car doesn't start try changing the injector response time drastically and see if it changes things.



Yeah you definitely need an OBD2 reader to see what the trims and how adjusting various things affects it. You want it as close to 0 as possible after running the car at part throttle for a while (cruising).



Do you have the specs for your injectors? They opening/turn on time should be in there.



From what I read peak and hold injectors work a bit differently (a higher current is initially delivered in the "peak" phase and then a lower current keeps it open in the "hold" phase) so it depends how well the "resistor box" is doing it's job. If it's just a bunch of resistors I don't know if it will work right. They will also have a much lower response time than the stock injectors (which is what the ECU's maps are for) which will make tuning more of a pain - unfortunately the FIC doesn't have a separate setting for "before" and "after" injector response times.. I would have gotten high impedance injectors to avoid dealing with all this crap.



Here's a useful post about the injector response time and some other stuff: http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...4904#msg134904