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Megasquirt Package

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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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Hey everyone I received my megasquirt not too long ago, (stage 1+) and I got the ecu p&p, a red box that looks like a piggyback, and a computer cable. Now let me begin with that am new to this tunning scene so bare with me here. I already downloaded the software (wideband 1) because I didnt order it with the innovative. Now it says something about routing a vac line, my package didnt come with no vac line. I live in the Los angeles area and am trying to find someone that can tune the megasquirt, but at the time I have no one 02.gif Now according to MS it says that the MS has a automatic MAF sensor, meaning that I can disconnected or w/e, so do I still need a MAP sensor??
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Yes, you need a vacuum line to the MS for it's internal MAP sensor. Get some silicone vac./boost hose and route it either through the firewall or through the fender passageway (which some people use to route their amp wires, search on here, there is a thread on that)
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Yeah, we wrote about it and I think there were pics of it in the original thread. You just route a small vacuum line through the firewall somewhere and T it into a vacuum line on the IM.

Not sure what you are saying in most of the rest of your post unfortunately.

As for tuning, tune it yourself, it is rather easy. Then go to any local dyno, show em what you've got, and they can tune it. Doesn't take anything special.
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Yea becuz I read for when you got the megasquirt running, you dont need your MAF sensor anymore, so I was thinking when I get my intercooling piping done not to have them weld in a MAF. As I was also wondering do I still need a MAP sensor with the MS? becuz I read that the vac line is the MAP senor, and about the tunning part I have been reading much about AFR, data logging, and such and it seems to much of a headache for me to even play with, So my plan was to have my beta blueprinted with all the internals and fuel system connected, break in the car NA then after 1000 miles do the oil change and slap turbo, then tune. That way I can skip not messing with the afr and not getting a wideband. I have a friend with a build integra (ls b18) broke in the engine NA then tuned it. He ended up with 452whp @ 19 psi or something like that, and it came out great. Whats you guys take on that??
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Old Jan 17, 2010 | 09:40 PM
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Dude split your posts into paragraphs, you're jumping from one topic to another and it's hard as hell to follow you.

Correct, you don't need your MAF if you're running a MS.

Yes, the MAP sensor is part of the MS, that's why you are routing a vac. line to it duh.gif You don't neet another MAP sensor if that's what you're asking. I'm sure this is covered in the megasquirt documentation (there's an entire site for it).

Even NA you're still going to need to do some basic tuning (although maybe you can ask someone for a NA map to start with?). In any case, I would put the turbo and everything on since you're already messing with the engine.. You can leave the wastegate open or set at a very low psi and it will be NA for all intents and purposes
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:09 AM
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QUOTE (Tony Vendetta @ Jan 18 2010, 12:14 AM)
about the tunning part I have been reading much about AFR, data logging, and such and it seems to much of a headache for me to even play with, So my plan was to have my beta blueprinted with all the internals and fuel system connected, break in the car NA then after 1000 miles do the oil change and slap turbo, then tune. That way I can skip not messing with the afr and not getting a wideband.

If you are going to turbo yourself then a wideband is extremely critical. If a shop is doing the entire install, then you should be okay, because they have one. Either way a wideband is required in tuning. Also, you should add the turbo while the engine is out. This will make the end result arrive sooner and also make things cheaper.

Also using a Megasquirt is kind of easy to tune yourself. It has software I believe that will analyze all the data that you log and create a map accordingly.

QUOTE (Tony Vendetta @ Jan 18 2010, 12:14 AM)
I have a friend with a build integra (ls b18) broke in the engine NA then tuned it. He ended up with 452whp @ 19 psi or something like that, and it came out great. Whats you guys take on that??


really? 452whp? on only 19 psi? on a 1.8L? Never heard of it. Try again. Boost would have to be at least 25 psi for that kind of power. And even then it wouldn't be too reliable. Unless you didn't have a budget, but then why would you have an integra?
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Old Jan 18, 2010 | 10:45 AM
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word, here are a few numbers from this site to get an idea.. and these are 2L engines:
wolfinsheepsclothing - 350whp @ 23psi
41willys - 316whp @ 19psi
yamaha - 380whp @ 23 psi
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 03:44 AM
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@ Lazyshot

No a shop wont be doing my rebuild, 2 mechanics will, and this are the same mechanics that rebuild my friends 04 sti when he blew it up 02.gif So I have confidence on these guys. We previously agreed $650 for the rebuild and turbo, but then I told him that I jst want it rebuild @ the moment so we settled on $400 for the rebuild and the rest will be paid @ a later time once the engine was broken in. That way I can save money and buy me a wideband with the 02 sensor. I was thinking of getting a AEM wideband since I hear so much good thingz on it.

@ Radu_rd2

Am shooting for 22-23 psi of boost smile.gif I cant wait soooo excited!!, and yea my friend was boosting around that much, I know he was pushing over 400+ whp, I might be wrong on the psi but thatz what everyone claims I have not seen the dyno sheet myself, but hes REALLY fast, too bad he cant keep it on the ground and it backfires are AMAZING smile.gif
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 05:07 AM
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backfires? I hope you don't go to the same tuner as him.
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Old Jan 19, 2010 | 06:05 AM
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On my GTO, with the aftermarket exhasut, you could often hear popping when suddenly laying off the throttle. It's leaning out off-throttle, and whatever unburned fuel is still in exhaust fires up sometimes. This is on otherwise stock car and it's pretty normal. Now I'm got a stock exhaust back on and you can't hear it anymore, but I'm sure it still happens.

Just saying it's not abnormal or dangerous to have these backfires (as long as they're not too violent). It's easy to get rid of them by adding some fuel to the decel tables, so I'm sure they would have done it stock if it was a problem.
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