Low Oil Pressure
#1
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I finally put the autometer gauge in the block and it reads 6-8psi during idle and a max of 50psi at WOT.
I think the turbo seal might be going bad, but could it be bad enough to lower the oil pressure down in the block? The turbo is feeding from the head.
I think the turbo seal might be going bad, but could it be bad enough to lower the oil pressure down in the block? The turbo is feeding from the head.
#5
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On beta 1's the oil pressure regulator is right on the deck.. remove the head and you will see a " Y " looking thing in one of the oil channels on the block..
Thats the regulator..
I never removed or replaced one.. you might wanna take a look at it..
I know removing the head is a pain in the ass.. so you might wanna look at other options before going that route.
OH..
I have my beta I/II hybrid sitting butt nakid at home... i can take a picture of it tonight.
Ill take a pic of the whole deck.
Thats the regulator..
I never removed or replaced one.. you might wanna take a look at it..
I know removing the head is a pain in the ass.. so you might wanna look at other options before going that route.
OH..
I have my beta I/II hybrid sitting butt nakid at home... i can take a picture of it tonight.
Ill take a pic of the whole deck.
#6
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Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
the regulator in head is there for the hydraulic lifters only
i would check the oil pump pressure valve (relief valve, regulator)
in my case.. with 2 weeks old synt. 5w30 i have 25 ps iat idle and around 70 at 3500 rpm with the engine hot
Agarwal's car have similar reading to mine expet he has a turbo
his turbo and gauge are hooked up to the engine block gallery
i would check the oil pump pressure valve (relief valve, regulator)
in my case.. with 2 weeks old synt. 5w30 i have 25 ps iat idle and around 70 at 3500 rpm with the engine hot
Agarwal's car have similar reading to mine expet he has a turbo
his turbo and gauge are hooked up to the engine block gallery
#7
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Thread Starter
QUOTE (Jaws021 @ Dec 19 2005, 04:42 PM)
On beta 1's the oil pressure regulator is right on the deck.. remove the head and you will see a " Y " looking thing in one of the oil channels on the block..
Thats the regulator..
I never removed or replaced one.. you might wanna take a look at it..
I know removing the head is a pain in the ass.. so you might wanna look at other options before going that route.
OH..
I have my beta I/II hybrid sitting butt nakid at home... i can take a picture of it tonight.
Ill take a pic of the whole deck.
Thats the regulator..
I never removed or replaced one.. you might wanna take a look at it..
I know removing the head is a pain in the ass.. so you might wanna look at other options before going that route.
OH..
I have my beta I/II hybrid sitting butt nakid at home... i can take a picture of it tonight.
Ill take a pic of the whole deck.
Oh, I knew about that one. I thought you weree talking about a regulator on the pump or something.
QUOTE (Denisst99 @ Dec 19 2005, 08:47 PM)
the regulator in head is there for the hydraulic lifters only
i would check the oil pump pressure valve (relief valve, regulator)
in my case.. with 2 weeks old synt. 5w30 i have 25 ps iat idle and around 70 at 3500 rpm with the engine hot
Agarwal's car have similar reading to mine expet he has a turbo
his turbo and gauge are hooked up to the engine block gallery
i would check the oil pump pressure valve (relief valve, regulator)
in my case.. with 2 weeks old synt. 5w30 i have 25 ps iat idle and around 70 at 3500 rpm with the engine hot
Agarwal's car have similar reading to mine expet he has a turbo
his turbo and gauge are hooked up to the engine block gallery
So what would I do to the relief valve? Is there a reason why it would change? I never touched it in the first place. I searched Webtech and didn't get much info on it. Could you explain what it does and how to adjust it better?
#8
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Where you are you measuring the pressure from?
From the stock location in the block (in place of stock sensor)?
Off the head?
Off ???????
Where you check the pressure from will have a DRAMATIC difference in how much pressure you read/see.
If you are reading the pressure off the head, with a Beta1 you should NEVER see over 50psi. See above referenced regulator to know why. Beta2's lack that regulator, so you should read higher pressure, but not the same as the stock location in the block.
Just so everyone is consistent, I would STRONGLY reccomend measuring pressure via the stock location in the block. It is a more accurate "true" measure of oil pressure vs the regulated pressure in beta1 heads, and the vast oil outflow of the beta2 head.
If you ARE measuring via the block, and you've got pressure that low, something screwy is going on somewhere. Check to see if you LOST your oil pressure regulator from the block when it was dipped/cleaned. If so, you are way oversupplying the beta1 head, which might be why you're loosing pressure. If the regulator IS there (only way to be 100% sure/check is to remove the head...sorry) then your best bet is to dissassemble everything, and pressure test the block, one oil hole at a time. Not a cheap or easy process. You should have been able to see any crack in the block or any oil galley hole that looked bad/enlarged or somehow buggered.
Other options...the oil pickup and pump. I know you said you checked the pump and replaced it with a new pump, but there's no guarantee that the oil pressure spring is correct. Remove the oil pan, and then remove the oil pressure plug. test the check ball for flow and also check the spring for proper tension. You can also stack washers under the spring to stiffen it/pre-compress it to raise pressure. Start with two washers and add more if you need to, but by doing this, you're still only treating the symptom...not the cause.
If you need more help/info, my email's always there.
From the stock location in the block (in place of stock sensor)?
Off the head?
Off ???????
Where you check the pressure from will have a DRAMATIC difference in how much pressure you read/see.
If you are reading the pressure off the head, with a Beta1 you should NEVER see over 50psi. See above referenced regulator to know why. Beta2's lack that regulator, so you should read higher pressure, but not the same as the stock location in the block.
Just so everyone is consistent, I would STRONGLY reccomend measuring pressure via the stock location in the block. It is a more accurate "true" measure of oil pressure vs the regulated pressure in beta1 heads, and the vast oil outflow of the beta2 head.
If you ARE measuring via the block, and you've got pressure that low, something screwy is going on somewhere. Check to see if you LOST your oil pressure regulator from the block when it was dipped/cleaned. If so, you are way oversupplying the beta1 head, which might be why you're loosing pressure. If the regulator IS there (only way to be 100% sure/check is to remove the head...sorry) then your best bet is to dissassemble everything, and pressure test the block, one oil hole at a time. Not a cheap or easy process. You should have been able to see any crack in the block or any oil galley hole that looked bad/enlarged or somehow buggered.
Other options...the oil pickup and pump. I know you said you checked the pump and replaced it with a new pump, but there's no guarantee that the oil pressure spring is correct. Remove the oil pan, and then remove the oil pressure plug. test the check ball for flow and also check the spring for proper tension. You can also stack washers under the spring to stiffen it/pre-compress it to raise pressure. Start with two washers and add more if you need to, but by doing this, you're still only treating the symptom...not the cause.
If you need more help/info, my email's always there.
#9
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Thread Starter
Yea, I put the sensor in the block. The regulator is still there but I'm not sure what it's made of. Maybe it got damaged when it was dipped? Even if it was, would it cause the block pressure to drop that much? Are the Beta II's pumps higher flowing to account with the extra flow to the head?
I read about the shimming of the spring on dsmtalk.com
I think I'm gonna try that. Otherwise, I don't know what could be wrong. The shimming will keep the oil from being dumped back in the pan when it reaches a certain pressure, and it might be dumping it too early, but will it help during idle, when the pressure is supposed to be lower?
Say the bypass is screwy and starts as low as 40psi, shouldn't I still at least get a minimum of 10psi at idle?
I'm getting 37psi during a cold start which is normal, but it backs down to 5-6 after warmup.
I read about the shimming of the spring on dsmtalk.com
I think I'm gonna try that. Otherwise, I don't know what could be wrong. The shimming will keep the oil from being dumped back in the pan when it reaches a certain pressure, and it might be dumping it too early, but will it help during idle, when the pressure is supposed to be lower?
Say the bypass is screwy and starts as low as 40psi, shouldn't I still at least get a minimum of 10psi at idle?
I'm getting 37psi during a cold start which is normal, but it backs down to 5-6 after warmup.
#10
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Thread Starter
I took off the pan. The relief valve wasn't stuck and the screen pickup was clean.
On to the next in line. sad.gif
On to the next in line. sad.gif