JonGTR

No! It's NOT obvious. It's a very specific and delicate process and not all of them can be done for maximum effect. There are hundreds of people who've recently tested the different treatments on factory gearset 500-1200hp Hondas and found that shot-peening factory gears do not help. Face-plating helps a little more, and specific techniques of cryo-treatment have helped best with limited expense. Yet, they ALL have downsides and combining any of them can actually make them worse by making them more brittle. The best method of all is remanufacturing a gearset with stronger material and not having to perform ANY of the aforementioned "treatments".



If a "treatment" is all that is happening with PAR, then I'd rather ship a new gearset to someone stateside that has proven to cry-treat Honda gearsets that go from 500hp capability to 8-900hp in proven cases.



Go read up or

tdonnell

What do you take me for? LOL. Of course these gearsets are manufactured from a special steel billet material (can't remember the code). Treatments help minimize stresses on the parts that would be left from the manufacturing process otherwise. Regardless of how finely machined the parts are, there would be improvements to their properties by the aforementioned treatments.



All I can say is this company supplies Gearsets to people and race teams around the world and has been doing so for some time. I'm sure they know their stuff and have seen noted improvements with the treatments they perform on the parts they machine. They are warranted for 12 months too, as long as you use the gear oil they supply.

JonGTR

I wonder if their gear lube is compatable with the Quaife?



Although I know PAR does decent work for the Mitsu and Nissan crowd, I'm not too familiar with their reliability on FWD compacts. I hope they stand by their product.



Another thing to consider is the strength of the trans case. Try getting one of those made!

tdonnell

The internals I will have are very similar to those used in the AWD Mitsu setups. I actually will be running a larger diameter input shaft from the EVO VIII.



Yeah I hope the trans case isn't the new weak link...



Yes I'm sure the gear lube is compatible with the Quaife unit, since it is not a clutch type diff. He also knows that is the differential I'm running so I'm sure he would let me know if there were compatibility issues.

Stocker

Nobody said throw treatments at parts as much as possible and it will be fine. P.S. take a chill pill.

JonGTR

Anyways....





So all you are having PAR change is the FD correct? What ratio did you go with? That calculator should let you know how it'll turn out. You mentioned wanting to get to 140-150mph, but I think you'll want to get just a touch higher. And for wiggle room, you could always rev out 4th to 8k as long as you built your head.

JonGTR

You know what would be awesome? Have two FD's made. One for the track and one for the Texas Mile!!! Imagine being the only Hyundai there, and one of the fastest FWD's hitting close to 200mph. There's also TX2K where you can do roll races against Buggatti's, Ferrari's, GTR's, etc.

http://www.texasmile.net/

http://tx2k.com/

tdonnell

You kind of read my mind... My final drive will be 3.2:1 vs. the stock ratio of 3.85:1. This will make 4th gear good for approximately 155 mph at 7500 RPM and 5th good for over 200...



All of the individual ratios should be the same as stock or damn close.



I've been debating turbo choices for an upgrade. I'm leaning toward the GTX3076 which is good for 600 whp or a touch higher. The GTX3582 I was considering before will likely be too large and result in a ton of unwanted lag.

JonGTR

Don't you have antilag? Go big for the strip (750hp) and keep what you have for the road course. Load two maps, and V-band the exhaust system for a quick swap.

tdonnell

Yeah, I've got two step.



I have thought about that too. I'd have to get a different turbine housing too if I go with the 3582, then I'd need to build the head so I can run higher RPM since I wouldn't spool the damn thing until about 5k.



I've been debating putting back in my Shark Racing 268 cams. They are NA cams though so I think the overlap will hurt torque.



Thoughts?