Low Boost On Stock Compression
#142
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
No shyt!!! Thats good to know. Only difference other than my built head would be that I still have the stock pistons.
How much boost to get there? *EDIT* Duh, just noticed your sig, 25 psi, NICE!
Do you agree with my theory that as long as I can control the detonation I should be able to run as much boost as I want up to 400 hp safely?
Has anyone got a dyno sheet with over 300 whp on stock compression/bottom end?
How much boost to get there? *EDIT* Duh, just noticed your sig, 25 psi, NICE!
Do you agree with my theory that as long as I can control the detonation I should be able to run as much boost as I want up to 400 hp safely?
Has anyone got a dyno sheet with over 300 whp on stock compression/bottom end?
#143
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Elantra
JonGTR is going to be the closest your going to find to 300whp on a stock engine. Remember, I can't control timing yet. I'm runnin 25psi on a very conservative tune. You should be fine.
#147
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Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
i've had some issue with head bolt
(after one winter of hard driving)
when i blew up one of my stock pistons after a few +25 psi pulls i had to remove the head and i noticed that the head gasket showed sign of head lifting
this was on a 1 year old resurface block and head,studs wre from a 8k mile engine
i was still on the stock compression ratio( 10.2-10.5) car was properly tuned and had plenty of power (tire spin in 4th gear lol)
(after one winter of hard driving)
when i blew up one of my stock pistons after a few +25 psi pulls i had to remove the head and i noticed that the head gasket showed sign of head lifting
this was on a 1 year old resurface block and head,studs wre from a 8k mile engine
i was still on the stock compression ratio( 10.2-10.5) car was properly tuned and had plenty of power (tire spin in 4th gear lol)
#148
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Spend your first day getting the car to run, make a few passes around the block (driving calmly). Get the car so that its getting the right afrs driving normally, then take it up on the freeway do a few 2nd through 4th pulls to map out the 35mph - 70mph range. Then when you feel up to it go out to the race track or drag strip to get the rest of the tuning done. You would be better off getting all your street tuning done. Not that I condone taking the car above 100mph on city streets but if you know of a nice long strait and you are the only one on the road go ahead and open it up. Make sure that you log all your pulls so you can modify the maps where you lean out at. I would try to keep the afr around 14.5 - 15. So that your on the conservitive side of things. If not a little higher 15.3 would be about the highest I would aim for. Too much fuel is just as bad as not enough fuel. Please whatever you do. Being that you have the ability to tune for spark, do so.
Honestly I would take my car to be dyno tuned when its put together. Although seeing how the nearest dyno location is about 75 miles from here. I will be doing some street tuning to get the car just about where I want it to be. Then making a nice drive to the dyno to tune it out there for all out power.
Honestly I would take my car to be dyno tuned when its put together. Although seeing how the nearest dyno location is about 75 miles from here. I will be doing some street tuning to get the car just about where I want it to be. Then making a nice drive to the dyno to tune it out there for all out power.
#149
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Vehicle: 2006 Pontiac GTO
Uhm, hello? High AFR means lean mixture, 15.3 is way too lean (detonation is very very likely). Stoichiometric is at 14.7, but to prevent detonation AFR should be kept richer, between 12-13
#150
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Yeah, 15:1 afr, are you insane!!!
I have a big problem after installing the additional wastegate spring, I can get boost up to 20 psi! I thought I was supposed to get rid of the creep with this additional spring?
The ebayer I bought the additional spring from (the same one I got the gate from with great service), said to simply add the pressures together for both springs to get over 1 bar gate pressure. A big red spring (10.15 PSI) + a small green spring (5.8 PSI), should equal 15.95 PSI right? Which means the gate should open up at that pressure right? So WHY do I still have boost climbing above my gate pressure?
I am going to pull the gate back off and used compressed air to make sure it is opening all the way and there are no leaks after my installation. If that checks out then I dunno? Maybe it takes even more pressure to get it to open all the way?
I suppose I might be able to up the fuel cut to 25 psi for ONE pull to see if it goes that high? If it goes that high than something must be seriously wrong, that's 9 psi MORE than the gate pressure!
The boost signal from the pipe off the turbo is in perfect condition and the top port is venting to the atmosphere.
I hope when I take it apart I realize I cobbed something up and I can then fix it, but if everything is fine I need some advice on how the stacked springs should be working.
Thanks everyone in advance!
I have a big problem after installing the additional wastegate spring, I can get boost up to 20 psi! I thought I was supposed to get rid of the creep with this additional spring?
The ebayer I bought the additional spring from (the same one I got the gate from with great service), said to simply add the pressures together for both springs to get over 1 bar gate pressure. A big red spring (10.15 PSI) + a small green spring (5.8 PSI), should equal 15.95 PSI right? Which means the gate should open up at that pressure right? So WHY do I still have boost climbing above my gate pressure?
I am going to pull the gate back off and used compressed air to make sure it is opening all the way and there are no leaks after my installation. If that checks out then I dunno? Maybe it takes even more pressure to get it to open all the way?
I suppose I might be able to up the fuel cut to 25 psi for ONE pull to see if it goes that high? If it goes that high than something must be seriously wrong, that's 9 psi MORE than the gate pressure!
The boost signal from the pipe off the turbo is in perfect condition and the top port is venting to the atmosphere.
I hope when I take it apart I realize I cobbed something up and I can then fix it, but if everything is fine I need some advice on how the stacked springs should be working.
Thanks everyone in advance!