KustomizedTiburon

SETUP

14G Td04 Turbo, water/oil cooled
SSA Reinforced manifold
Greddy Type S BOV
FMIC
AEM intake modified to make intercooler piping.
RRFPR

I got my exhaust/ wideband/C/f muffler put on yesterday.

First thing was irritate the exhaust shop because I need to put some bolts and tighte upsome clamps when it was on the lift lol.

The drive home, my wideband was around 13-14, not gettin on it at all but I did let boost build up. I noticed it was smoking quite abit.
The Turbo/BOV sound amazing
Got home, checked for leaks, everything looked good. Checked oil to see if I was burnin it, oil exact same spot as it was.

HERES THE PROBLEM

When I'm driving, I can give the car about 50% throttle and it will build up boost fairly quickly, everything works good
BUT once I gve the car about 75% throttle the afr goes rich to about 12 and then it goes straight down past 17 to where it just shows --- and the car completely falls on its face. this happens, everytime at 5 pounds. The most I have built up and this was on free-rev never on road was 7.

I talked to a couple turbo guys and they told me it was the MAF and becase it wasn't used to getting so much air and it was sucking so much at 75% throttle that it thinks something is wrong and shuts off the injectors for safety of the motor

Me and Jay-M were talking (before I had these issues) and split second actually makes a signal modifier that changes what the MAF reads

But I also talked to a couple of members on this site about this setup and everyone said I should be fine, my AFR is fine just WTF is up with this throttle issue.

my RRFPR is hooked up how I was told, Inlet coming off of the return of the fuel rail, outlet going back to the return line to the tank.

Im running 93 octane gas, no more then 5 pounds, no funny sounds or anything.

Help turbo gods.

Sorry for some of the spelling, I'm on my laptop and it's not typing as fast as me lol.

Ericy321

What are you using to tune?

KustomizedTiburon

The RRFPR, thats it, I talked to a few people on here and they said that would be fine for 5 PSI, and my wideband reads pretty damn good readings all the way untill it completely cuts out.

I was prepared to go with a piggy back if I absolutely need to but if I can keep my AFR good then why waste if I'm running such low boost.

Edit plus I've yet to seen a good system for our cars that I can just hook up and not have problems every 100 miles.

if it comes down to it I'll get emanage blue and injectors but I'd rather not.

DTN

sounds like a fuel map problem.

KustomizedTiburon

Please elaborate DTN?

Added info - The car has brand new 1 step colder NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs and NGK spark plug wires

Also added a 1.8l cam, I condiered swapping back to the 2.0 to see if that had any effect but I doubt it would.

tanc

DTN has no idea what he's talking about.


Anyhow, tuning with a rrfpr sucks balls. Your wideband reads no fuel, so your fuel is getting cut off. Can you build up 5psi at all, if so whats your fuel ratio and throttle %? What happens if you mash the throttle?

Are you using stock injectors? How many kms on them?


It's tough diagnose your problem through the internet, esp when using a rrfpr.

KustomizedTiburon

yes I can build up 5 PSI at ~50% throttle with wideband reading anywhere between 13-14

of course the % of throttle is hard to determine but I'm guestimating that ~75-100% is the only time that it cuts off, thats what happens when you mash it, the car falls flat on its face, fuel cuts off.

Stock injectors.

130K miles on them LOL, I never had any problems before so I never saw a need to change them.

So the car feels like it came turbo'd unless you want to mash the throttle, but as far as drivability, the car seems to run great. lol just don't try to race ( which I don't anyways)

I understand it's going to be hard to do over the internet I'm just looking for any advice.

Thanks

DTN

dang... you're not using any fuel maping? ONLY a fuel pressure regulator? A RRFPR is good for use in addition to engine management, but not capable of running your engine management. You need to use something which will adjust the AFR,not just rough tune your fuel pressure. The 5th injector seems to be the cheapest way to go.

A RRFPR will provide a linear increase, but a injector can be mapped to the needs of the engine.

Ericy321

OK now I get it.

DTN, he has no fuel map. He is tuning via the fuel pressure regulator. I have never tuned with that with a return system. I think its easier if its a returnless fuel system. Anyway, you can get a decent tune off of that but I would recomend possibly using a piggyback. Even an SAFC or something. Otherwise you just need to play around with it and see what feels the best and gives you a good AFR.

Your MAF shouldnt be maxxed out already. I would get your injectors checked or get new ones. Stock fuel pump to? Just trying to figure out where the weak link is here.

Alot of people use the FPR as the only means of tuning. Ive seen it on the DSMs a lot and helped with quite a few setups. Even without a wideband they do alright.

KustomizedTiburon

I actually have a 5th injector and unichip setup, BUT I'm missing the harness to the unichip and the CD with the wiring and everything will not work on any computer, and it doesnt even look scratched, plus no one seems to have too much experience with the unichip so I just decided to put that to the side

Stock fuel pump

I've played around with the RRFPR and it seems to be at it's best, I have about 13.5-14 normally, sometimes it jumps around, especially in stop go stop go.

What would happen if I put green top (don't they bolt up with no mods?) injectors on? Or can you even do that with stock ECU and everything?

It's so weird I just can't figure out why the fuel would just cut out at certain throttle but not PSI

If it will help I can use my OBDII scantools, and tell you the gal. of air its moving around when it cuts out.

Oh yeah, no CEL's at all lol, how the hell did I manage that one.