balbains324

Got me some more boost, this has got to be the cheapest and easiest way of getting more boost from a supercharger. It cost me £66 for the pulley, half an hour to install it and 10 mins to decide if I should start the car without tuning the SMT-6......I started it anyway.........smile on my face laugh.gif

I am going to hook my UEGO up tomorrow to the SMT-6 so I can log A/F and then start the road tuning process. I am determined to learn how to tune my own car now because the dyno guys in the UK cost a fortune!! Hopefully I will figure it out. Im aiming for 12.5 at WOT and around 14 when normal driving.

I do have one problem when starting the car....the revs fluctuate...from 1100 drop to 600 and back up again, this is without the idle control valve connected....when I connect the idle control valve the car just starts and dies straight away....I can't figure out what is wrong??? I have had problems with longer cranking time too which never used to happen before at all..a bit like the starter motor is not got enough power to tick the engine over.

Anyway comments welcome....tuning tips with SMT-6 appreciated.....idle problem help more then appreciated hail.gif

I am getting a boost gauge too to see how much increase in boost I have actually gained. I calculated that I should get 10 psi from the eaton MP45 with the 2.25" pulley. I had 6 psi from the 3" pulley and 178whp...Im hoping to be nearer the 200whp mark now.

tdonnell

The idle issue is odd unless you have camshafts.

What is your IM vacuum at idle? Do you have the IAC connected to the plenum after/under the blower? Is the air coming from the intake piping (stock intake pipes/couplers to TB?)

I would aim for 12:1 at the LEANEST for a street tune, better to be richer than leaner my friend!

If you can add cranking priming fuel with the smt that would help your long cranking time.

rd2pimp

i have had the same idle issue i just cant figure it out

balbains324

I did have high lift cams...but took them out because I thought they were the problem, I now have stock cams back in the engine...do you thing my timing may be a few degrees out?......I get a bit of a glitch at 2900 rpm at normal driving?

I have the Idle control valve connected at the blower not after...I have included a pic....am I doing something wrong?

I dont have a pipe inlet to put it any where else?

larryinkc

Some tuning info that might help.

http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/piggyintro.htm


http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf

kennman

damn! i have the SAME problem with f"#$ing idle!!
ive got a 2.0 beta 1 supercharged with m62 Eaton, Megasquirted.
The revs go from 1300-700 and car shakes every time when the revs fall! The worst is when i stop at the traffic lights- but sometimes the revs stay at 1100 rpm (thats my normal value, i dont have a idle air valve, i tune my idle with a bolt on the throttle body). I checked ALL, really all for a vacuum leak, but am unable to find one! I am now suspicious about the brake booster vacuum line, maybe the leak is there. The other possibility is the alternator.... if it has to fill more, i heard it can rotate a bit slower... maybe that's what's making the whole supercharged system revs go up and down...
It also has a hard time cranking, especially when cold.
ANYBODY has a clue about this?=?!

p.s.:my friend has a similar problem, and he found his lambda (ox. sensor) is giving strange readings in voltage, according to the revs go up and down... Is the lambda cause or a consequence of rev flustuations?

please let me know about your experience, i'm going crazy!

Igor

balbains324

^^^ditto...its driving me nuts too!!

I thought it might be the alternator too so I'm going to add another battery in parallel to see if I can eliminate the problem.

I don't think it is your brake booster line, I have checked all vacuume lines.

My normal idle is 1100 rpm too lmao.gif

Any one else having or had the same problems??

Thanks for the links larryinkc

tdonnell

You need to swap hose connections on that IAC, unless position doesn't matter.

The normal position is for the end port to be getting air from the intake before the TB, and then the side port feeds the IM.

That COULD be your problem but who knows.

I rode in an smt-6 tuned turbo car before and there was a shudder around 3k in that car as well, might be when the secondary injectors kick in or something.

Try adjusting your TB closed position screw to open the TB JUST A BIT, maybe a turn or two, see if that helps any.

Do that after you swap around the IAC connections of course.

I get my hunting idle to go away by running my afr at 12-13:1 at idle, lol.

Good luck.

kennman

i DONT have an IAC valve.... so this is for sure not a problem.

balbains324

Kennman, is your timing in check? What are you using to tune? I have noticed on the diagram that I used to wire up my SMT6 there may be a mistake. Check the SMT6 sticky.

I have adjusted my fuel going in at idle too but it has made little difference

I think it is the timing or the SMT6 wiring...I will let you know as soon as I get this figured out