wolfinsheepsclothing

i installed the ARP studs for the head and used my friends technique on torqing it down. didnt work, it blew. ripped everything apart again and bought a new gasket. installed the new gasket and torqued it down the way i was told to on here. didnt work, it blew again; antifreeze in oil, antifreeze in exhaust, antifreeze running down my block, my idle was up to about 2300 rpms (im guessing because air was getting directly into the cylinder), and tapping noise from valves (probably just from antifreeze in oil). as you figure im very frustrated and about to put the bolts back in. im going to drain the oil (again), drail coolant (again), and rip everything the hell off (again). does anyone know what could be causing this? i cleaned up the head and top of block, im pretty sure i sealed the head gasket correctly?, im going to probably go to another machine shop to see if the think its straight and stuff. but im seriously fed up with all this s***.

'treezy

I doubt you got two faulty head gaskets in a row (or one for that matter).

Right now, I'd say it's the way you're seating the head gasket.

I don't know the torque specs so I can't give you a step by step guide.
But I can give you an example, please do not take the torque #'s literally though.

I don't even know what size the ARP studs are, 7/16" approx? I dunno what that is in mm.

Let's say 70ft. lbs for the sake of example.

Use some moly-oil mixture on the washers and area around the head (helps when using the torque wrench).

I'm assuming you know the factory sequence too?

Work your way up in 3 to 4 steps to the 70 ft. lbs (or whatever).

1.) After hand tightening in sequence, torque to 20 ft. lbs in sequence.
2.) Torque to 50 ft. lbs in sequence
3.) Torque to 70 ft. lbs in sequence

or split up Step 2 into two steps, 37 and 55 ft. lbs or something like that.

oh and apply sealant to any studs that go through a coolant passage. Permatex

that's it. Don't loosen them all and do it again eleventy-billion times. (I don't see how that accomplishes anything..)

and after you run it, let it cool down for 2-3 hours (OR LONGER) and re-torque!

01tibby

heres a thought. i mean, we are pretty smart on here but if nothing is working for you call arp or follow the steps described in the shop manual. and if you are only pretty sure you're doing something like this correctly then you probably want to get a "pro" to give you some pointers.

TopSpeedFX

If your going to the machine shop, see if they can install everything correctly for you

DTN

IF you torqued them down wrong the first time and ran the car you may have warped your head... It's not a big deal usually. You should be able to get it machined flat again. You'll have to redo your head gasket and have the head honed.

I did my heads on my 95 Cavalier. I didn't have the car long. It blew a head gasket. I replaced it. It was much harder then the tiburon's head gasket from what I read. It sucked alot. I didn't have the head honed. It was just as bad when I got done as when I started.

I read about reusing head bolts on Webtech: HMAService.com username: RDT pass: Sm9vbw== . You should look into it.

wolfinsheepsclothing

patreezy, i basically did what you said already. i didnt use permatex on it though, i used the arp lube they gave me with the studs. there are 8 10mm and 2 12mm i was told to use 80 ft/lbs for a final torque from many people. i use a 3" extension i think which would lose a ft lbs or 2 i guess but i dont think loosing that would make my head gasket leak that bad. what im going to do it rip it apart again and take it to a different machine shop and have them check it for straightness again.

01tibby

i can't believe somebody would try to take on a project like this without checking the god damn shop manual. quit being retarded, go to webtech, and be astonished when you see the torque figures are...

M10
30Nm (300kg.cm,221b.ft)+(60ﾃつｰ-65ﾃつｰ)+(60ﾃつｰ-65ﾃつｰ)

M12
35Nm (350kg.cm,261b.ft)+(60ﾃつｰ-65ﾃつｰ)+(60ﾃつｰ-65ﾃつｰ)

or maybe you should take it to a machine shop again, yeah.

JonGTR

Did you even bother to check if the head isn't warped?

01tibby

i don't understand why anything is needed to be checked.

he torqued them to 80, it blew because that is a third of the torque the head bolts require. of course it's going to blow. look what else you can find if you decide to stop being lazy and actually read before dumping thousands into something that could easily fail because you relied solely on what other people have told you.

wolfinsheepsclothing

1. theyre studs
2. i am suppose to torque them to 240 lbs pounds?
3. i read the manual, i have the specs and sequence. i did it twice now.
4. i appreciate the help, but dont try and make me look like a dumbass