Gotta Get A New Turbo.. Another T3 Super 60
10-03-2005, 05:57 AM
#11
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Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
hep like agarwal said i know a few persons running it from the block without any problems,and for a quick exemple on a DSM we put he oil feed directly on teh oil pump itself to get better oil pressure like the 2nd gen(mitsu turbo seam okay from the head feed,but garett prefere a bit more presure)
BTW 01importshark put the crossmember back on the car might drive better with it laugh.gif
BTW 01importshark put the crossmember back on the car might drive better with it laugh.gif
10-03-2005, 09:16 AM
#12
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^^^^ hahah.. those were from when the project was in process lol.. cross member is in car..
if i tap the block for return line, wont it most likely be above pump and getting pressurized oil? where do you guys have your blocks tapped? can i get a pic.. imma take my car in on friday i think, and try to get some stuff fixed/done. im just not sure where to tap block.. or where i should retap the oil pan? i should prob get a new one, as this ones f***ed.. sad.gif
if i tap the block for return line, wont it most likely be above pump and getting pressurized oil? where do you guys have your blocks tapped? can i get a pic.. imma take my car in on friday i think, and try to get some stuff fixed/done. im just not sure where to tap block.. or where i should retap the oil pan? i should prob get a new one, as this ones f***ed.. sad.gif
10-03-2005, 10:16 AM
#14
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o thats for your return line tho? i was thinking thats where you tapped your feed?? do you have any pics with the turbo and that line in it? showing the relation of the two??
i was thinking that was your feed line?? isnt it?? blah... wouldnt i be getting pressurized oil from there??? sorry im so dumb.. im still tired..
i was thinking that was your feed line?? isnt it?? blah... wouldnt i be getting pressurized oil from there??? sorry im so dumb.. im still tired..
10-03-2005, 11:00 AM
#15
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get you a apex'i rx6 they are great they are made by ihi
that is what i got
sometsome this simmilar happen to me, but mine was comeing off the head.. my dum ass used brass nipples and not SS which i should have
that is what i got
sometsome this simmilar happen to me, but mine was comeing off the head.. my dum ass used brass nipples and not SS which i should have
10-03-2005, 03:55 PM
#17
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As you see on my pic, the feed line is taken from the oil sending unit (just as you); below that, the block is tapped with a big brass nozzle for the oil return line.
I don't have a pic of the line when the turbo is on, as it can't be seen from the top of the engine bay. I'll see what I can do about it in the next few days and take a pic or two.
I don't have a pic of the line when the turbo is on, as it can't be seen from the top of the engine bay. I'll see what I can do about it in the next few days and take a pic or two.
10-03-2005, 04:09 PM
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agarwal I'm guessing most people aren't putting their return in the block/planning on doing it that way since we aren't sure what all is involved.
did you have to remove/dissasemble the engine to do that? or is that spot reachable from underneath once you remove the oil pan? did you do anything extra to make sure it wouldn't leak? jb weld or welds on the inside?
did you have to remove/dissasemble the engine to do that? or is that spot reachable from underneath once you remove the oil pan? did you do anything extra to make sure it wouldn't leak? jb weld or welds on the inside?
10-03-2005, 04:48 PM
#19
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You don't HAVE to disassemble the engine of remove it from the car when drilling the block, but it sure is easier when the block is outside of the engine bay wink1.gif
But it's not too hard to do it while the engine is in the car; that's what we did on my first engine. You just remove the pan, drill, and take care not to hit the crank or anything once you go through.
The fitting I used is pretty thick and very robust. The drilled hole needs to be the perfect size; you then just screw the fitting in place (which needs some torque wink1.gif). We just used some (VERY good quality) silicone to seal it, but the fitting itself is screwed very solidly to the block and wouldn't leak anyway. Since there's no oil there inside the block, it CAN'T possbly leak anyway, so it doesn't NEED to be welded or anything, but it can't hurt.
But it's not too hard to do it while the engine is in the car; that's what we did on my first engine. You just remove the pan, drill, and take care not to hit the crank or anything once you go through.
The fitting I used is pretty thick and very robust. The drilled hole needs to be the perfect size; you then just screw the fitting in place (which needs some torque wink1.gif). We just used some (VERY good quality) silicone to seal it, but the fitting itself is screwed very solidly to the block and wouldn't leak anyway. Since there's no oil there inside the block, it CAN'T possbly leak anyway, so it doesn't NEED to be welded or anything, but it can't hurt.
10-03-2005, 05:24 PM
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ok after looking at the pic... it looks like you got an "ok" spot.
Its ok, because of the height.. i would assume its above the oil level (by looking at the pics), but i would kick the guy who welded it on the nuts...
the guy placed the bung under the bolt... that will be a b**** to remove.
Anyways..
The fitting and the way the hose is angled sux. You need to somehow have the fitting pointing UPWARDS, so you dont have any oil gathering on the portion before the fitting (part cringed downwards).
That could have cause your seals to go bad...
Its ok, because of the height.. i would assume its above the oil level (by looking at the pics), but i would kick the guy who welded it on the nuts...
the guy placed the bung under the bolt... that will be a b**** to remove.
Anyways..
The fitting and the way the hose is angled sux. You need to somehow have the fitting pointing UPWARDS, so you dont have any oil gathering on the portion before the fitting (part cringed downwards).
That could have cause your seals to go bad...