Found A Neat Nitrous Diy
So.... I'd suspect some people to read this and blow their motors within a week, but it's actually pretty cool! This guy made his own nitrous kit using common everyday crap. For less than $150! The bottle, he says, can be made from a CO2 extinguisher....
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http://www.nitrous.info/
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http://www.nitrous.info/
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11,732
Likes: 5
From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
I wouldn't home-brew a nitrous kit. Especially when you can buy one of these kits for $200 and a bottle for $50.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-SNIPER-...sspagenameZWDVW
I have respect for Nitrous Oxide. I fully understand how it works and the theory behind it. At the hospital, where I work, it's my job to change nitrous bottles and inspect the hospital's nitrous system for proper pressure and flow. When it comes down to it, if you buy a nitrous kit from a company who says it will work on your car and something goes wrong, then you can blame them. If you buy a bunch of parts from different manufacturers and put them in your car, you have to prove to the manufacturer of the part that you were using it properly.
Basically, if you buy a kit, it's on them. If you assemble a kit, it's on you. If you assemble a kit and something is slighly off or wrong, then you could pass out from inhalation of nitrous fumes or gas fumes. You could die when the bottle explodes from being mounted wrong and the top exploding off of the bottle and impaling the back of your head. You could die from nitrous fuel explosion. Your car could lean out and burn your pistons up. You could shoot to much fuel and not enough nitrous and destroy your spark plugs, MAF, o2 sensors and catalytic converter.
I'm just saying, a NOS kit is cheap. NOS then takes the blame if there's a problem with the parts. ZEX would be a better choice with their 3 way tuning of fuel pressure to nitrous pressure and metering jets regulating the nitrous and fuel. You're gauranteed from the manufacturer that everthing will hook up right. You're gauranteed that everything will be as they said it will be. They will replace stuff if it's wrong. I'd go with a ZEX kit. NOS would be acceptable. Homebrew would be a PITA, unknown reliability, and not gauranteed to work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-SNIPER-...sspagenameZWDVW
I have respect for Nitrous Oxide. I fully understand how it works and the theory behind it. At the hospital, where I work, it's my job to change nitrous bottles and inspect the hospital's nitrous system for proper pressure and flow. When it comes down to it, if you buy a nitrous kit from a company who says it will work on your car and something goes wrong, then you can blame them. If you buy a bunch of parts from different manufacturers and put them in your car, you have to prove to the manufacturer of the part that you were using it properly.
Basically, if you buy a kit, it's on them. If you assemble a kit, it's on you. If you assemble a kit and something is slighly off or wrong, then you could pass out from inhalation of nitrous fumes or gas fumes. You could die when the bottle explodes from being mounted wrong and the top exploding off of the bottle and impaling the back of your head. You could die from nitrous fuel explosion. Your car could lean out and burn your pistons up. You could shoot to much fuel and not enough nitrous and destroy your spark plugs, MAF, o2 sensors and catalytic converter.
I'm just saying, a NOS kit is cheap. NOS then takes the blame if there's a problem with the parts. ZEX would be a better choice with their 3 way tuning of fuel pressure to nitrous pressure and metering jets regulating the nitrous and fuel. You're gauranteed from the manufacturer that everthing will hook up right. You're gauranteed that everything will be as they said it will be. They will replace stuff if it's wrong. I'd go with a ZEX kit. NOS would be acceptable. Homebrew would be a PITA, unknown reliability, and not gauranteed to work.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
QUOTE
I wouldn't home-brew a nitrous kit. Especially when you can buy one of these kits for $200 and a bottle for $50.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...spagenameZWDVW
I have respect for Nitrous Oxide. I fully understand how it works and the theory behind it. At the hospital, where I work, it's my job to change nitrous bottles and inspect the hospital's nitrous system for proper pressure and flow. When it comes down to it, if you buy a nitrous kit from a company who says it will work on your car and something goes wrong, then you can blame them. If you buy a bunch of parts from different manufacturers and put them in your car, you have to prove to the manufacturer of the part that you were using it properly.
Basically, if you buy a kit, it's on them. If you assemble a kit, it's on you. If you assemble a kit and something is slighly off or wrong, then you could pass out from inhalation of nitrous fumes or gas fumes. You could die when the bottle explodes from being mounted wrong and the top exploding off of the bottle and impaling the back of your head. You could die from nitrous fuel explosion. Your car could lean out and burn your pistons up. You could shoot to much fuel and not enough nitrous and destroy your spark plugs, MAF, o2 sensors and catalytic converter.
I'm just saying, a NOS kit is cheap. NOS then takes the blame if there's a problem with the parts. ZEX would be a better choice with their 3 way tuning of fuel pressure to nitrous pressure and metering jets regulating the nitrous and fuel. You're gauranteed from the manufacturer that everthing will hook up right. You're gauranteed that everything will be as they said it will be. They will replace stuff if it's wrong. I'd go with a ZEX kit. NOS would be acceptable. Homebrew would be a PITA, unknown reliability, and not gauranteed to work.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-S...spagenameZWDVW
I have respect for Nitrous Oxide. I fully understand how it works and the theory behind it. At the hospital, where I work, it's my job to change nitrous bottles and inspect the hospital's nitrous system for proper pressure and flow. When it comes down to it, if you buy a nitrous kit from a company who says it will work on your car and something goes wrong, then you can blame them. If you buy a bunch of parts from different manufacturers and put them in your car, you have to prove to the manufacturer of the part that you were using it properly.
Basically, if you buy a kit, it's on them. If you assemble a kit, it's on you. If you assemble a kit and something is slighly off or wrong, then you could pass out from inhalation of nitrous fumes or gas fumes. You could die when the bottle explodes from being mounted wrong and the top exploding off of the bottle and impaling the back of your head. You could die from nitrous fuel explosion. Your car could lean out and burn your pistons up. You could shoot to much fuel and not enough nitrous and destroy your spark plugs, MAF, o2 sensors and catalytic converter.
I'm just saying, a NOS kit is cheap. NOS then takes the blame if there's a problem with the parts. ZEX would be a better choice with their 3 way tuning of fuel pressure to nitrous pressure and metering jets regulating the nitrous and fuel. You're gauranteed from the manufacturer that everthing will hook up right. You're gauranteed that everything will be as they said it will be. They will replace stuff if it's wrong. I'd go with a ZEX kit. NOS would be acceptable. Homebrew would be a PITA, unknown reliability, and not gauranteed to work.
So am I going to die less if I bought my kit from ZEX, NEX, or NOS? No. I chose to really learn what I was dealing with instead of buying a kit and throwing it in the car. Buying parts that I know will work with the system I am setting up and knowing how each one works seems like a good idea to me. I think you are case in point as far as the fact that buying a premade kit doesn't gaurantee it's safety... how many times have you blown your CAI off the TB now? In fact, my setup will be safer then the premade kit you bought for a couple of reasons. First of all it will pipe into the IM rather then the intake elbow, which is the better way of doing things, and will help avoid the backfire you've experienced. Second, I'll be jetting my system at the solenoids rather then the ends of the lines, which while not as common here in the states is a safer way of doing things as well.
Nearly everything on a car can be done just as well DIY as from a kit DTN, I just choose to really learn what I'm doing and get my hands dirty so that I know it will work.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11,732
Likes: 5
From: Leesville, Louisiana
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
QUOTE (Caj Darkmoon @ Apr 19 2008, 04:22 PM)
So am I going to die less if I bought my kit from ZEX, NEX, or NOS? No.
no, you have noone to blame. Plus you've got the constant worry that the parts may have been subquality because it's not a kit that anyone stands behind except yourself.QUOTE
I think you are case in point as far as the fact that buying a premade kit doesn't gaurantee it's safety... how many times have you blown your CAI off the TB now? In fact, my setup will be safer then the premade kit you bought for a couple of reasons.
It's the nature of the beast. You will experience it too. Any missfire while shooting nitrous will cause a backfire. All it takes is a bit of burning fuel to be in the chamber durring the intake stroke and boom. A late burn or incomplete burn will do that.
This can come from
A. shooting nitrous at low RPMs
B. Dirty fuel injectors
C. improperly gapped or fouled spark plugs
D. improper valve seal
If you run through as many tanks as I have, you will for sure experience A and C just like I have.
QUOTE
First of all it will pipe into the IM rather then the intake elbow, which is the better way of doing things, and will help avoid the backfire you've experienced. Second, I'll be jetting my system at the solenoids rather then the ends of the lines, which while not as common here in the states is a safer way of doing things as well.
Thats a bad idea. System manufacturers recommend at least 6" from the throttle body on the piping side, not the manifold side. This is because the nitrous/fuel will not have time to mix with the air properly before it goes into the cylindars. If you put a nitrous nozel inside the intake manifold, most likely cylindar 4 will get nothing and cylindar 1 will be sucking nitrous hard.
QUOTE
Nearly everything on a car can be done just as well DIY as from a kit DTN, I just choose to really learn what I'm doing and get my hands dirty so that I know it will work.
Just so you know, as a biomedical equipment technician, I'm more then qualified you are to work around, maintain, modify, and handle nitrous systems. I do it at work. I even have a hazardous materials transportation certification (HAZMAT HAZ11). I'm saying, this option is not for everyone. Your DIY system is not gauranteed by anyone. I wouldn't make my own kit because I trust manufacturers who design these kits for a living and have gone through the trials of eliminating crappy parts from crappy manufacturers and small things which have gone wrong in the past because of incompatability issues. This is the reason that buying a premade kit will always turn out better then any smart guy's DIY.
You're talking about Nitrous Oxide under, sometimes, 1200PSI. This ammount of pressure is sufficient to blow a large hole in your car. A leak could freeze anything it touches and a loose or badly crimped plumbing end, or a ripped or cut braded steel line would easily shread your engine bay. Think about it like this. Remember wet willy? That stupid thing with the garden hose flapping around when you were a kid. Now think wet willy at 1200PSI instead of 40PSI.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Vehicle: 2001 Hyundai Tiburon
QUOTE
no, you have noone to blame. Plus you've got the constant worry that the parts may have been subquality because it's not a kit that anyone stands behind except yourself.
That's alright, I'll be dead.
QUOTE
Thats a bad idea. System manufacturers recommend at least 6" from the throttle body on the piping side, not the manifold side. This is because the nitrous/fuel will not have time to mix with the air properly before it goes into the cylindars. If you put a nitrous nozel inside the intake manifold, most likely cylindar 4 will get nothing and cylindar 1 will be sucking nitrous hard.
Which is why fuel injectors are placed right by the cylinders, eh? Which is why direct port nitrous goes in right next to the fuel injectors? There's not going to be an issue with mixing with the air. Nitrous manufacturers have you put it before the TB because it's easier.
QUOTE
Just so you know, as a biomedical equipment technician, I'm more then qualified you are to work around, maintain, modify, and handle nitrous systems. I do it at work. I even have a hazardous materials transportation certification (HAZMAT HAZ11). I'm saying, this option is not for everyone. Your DIY system is not gauranteed by anyone. I wouldn't make my own kit because I trust manufacturers who design these kits for a living and have gone through the trials of eliminating crappy parts from crappy manufacturers and small things which have gone wrong in the past because of incompatability issues. This is the reason that buying a premade kit will always turn out better then any smart guy's DIY.
You'd rather trust the people who are trying to do what the can with the least possible cost and the most profit eh? And by the way, the only thing that your qualifications tell me is that you work with high pressure systems. Guess what, so does anyone who plays paintball, same pressures.
QUOTE
You're talking about Nitrous Oxide under, sometimes, 1200PSI. This ammount of pressure is sufficient to blow a large hole in your car. A leak could freeze anything it touches and a loose or badly crimped plumbing end, or a ripped or cut braded steel line would easily shread your engine bay. Think about it like this. Remember wet willy? That stupid thing with the garden hose flapping around when you were a kid. Now think wet willy at 1200PSI instead of 40PSI.
To put it bluntly you're an idiot if you dont think these problems could just as easily happen with a premade kit. Nothing in these kits is complex. The most technical part of the whole system is the solenoids, which is why I bought those from a manufacturer. Aside from that it's plumbing, and no kit is going to be able to give me lines, fittings, and valves any better then what I can put together myself. Just because you weren't willing to do it DTN doesn't mean it can't be done just as well DIY.


