Hive

Well I am newb at this, did most of the reading and searching but just could not find some of the answers. I spent whole afternoon yesterday on search and going through Corky Bell's Maximum Boost and could not find answer to few of mine concerns.

I have decided to go turbo path. Configuration I am thinking of is as follows: Garret/Airesearch T3 trim 60 turbo (bought of Double_A), OBX Turbo manifold, Walbro 255L Fuel pump, FPR,Bosch Green top 440cc injectors,larger IC, boost controler (APEXI or Greddy), guages needed (Oil temp, boost, EGT) and on top of this a Unichip. I hope that this is a good setup I might have forgotten something but in the end all of the things needed will be acquired.

Now my problem is that before deciding to go turbo path I have already started my N/A way. I have changed all of the pulleys with lightweight ones, as well as putting in Adjustable Precision Cam GEar. In the end head has been ported, polished and lowered to raise a compression to 11:1 (or 12:1 not sure at the moment). After all of this has been done, well, I got caught in a turbo wind and decided to change my path and go turbo way.

I was told by my mechanic that since I will not push for more than 0,5 bar (7-8 psi) the engine and enternals should be fine without changing the head or pistons. Well here I need your opinions too. What do you think? Should I just leave it with a higher compression and lower boost (my goal is 220-240 whp) or try to change the head and get it to a stock compression level and then ride a higher boost?

Another question is regarding boosted engine and higher speed. How do our engines cope with higher speeds when boosted (200-220 km/h - cca. 140 mph) from your experience? Are there any limits except monitoring the EGT and Oil temperatures and letting go when the temeprature goes to high? If you have any suggestions regarding the setup I will appreciate it wink1.gif



Another one that just popped to my head. Since my tib is Korean specs is it possible to get in one of those turbo remmaped OEM ECU-s instead of a standalone or should I be better of with a standalone?

Hyundai4g63T

If your going to keep the High Compression then I would go full standalone. That way you have full control over the entire engine and can tune accordingly.

Our engines are quite strong and with proper tuning they will handle the higher speed with no issues, but you will still want to monitor the gauges.

Hive

I am very inclined to keep high compression ratio. Mainly cause in that way I should be able to get more power at low rpm's before turbo starts to spool and still get get an additional kick when spool starts.

Hyundai4g63T

Compression has nothing to do with the spool. If the turbo is properly sized and the manifold is designed to flow then you will have a nice spool time.

hamhead

The T3 trim should spool fast enough that it'll be making full boost at RPMs pretty low, low enough that you wouldn't be going WOT that low anyway.

Hive

What about higher compression ratio? Should I be worried about that or no - since I won't be pushing more than 7-8 psi?

nate704

if you only plan on pushing 7-8 psi max, you don't need:



255lph fuel pump -> go with 190lph, so that you don't have to use aftermarket FPR.

Unichip -> go with SMT6 or emanage



Also, you will need oil pressure gauge.

Hive

I had already installed a walbro 255lph and an aftermarket FPR after the head was lowered to resolve some issues so it will not be a problem to just leave it in wink1.gif . As for a Unichip I am basically stuck with it since there are no other official tuners at dyno shop here in Croatia.

Alex01tib

your going to want to lower compression, esspecially if its 12:1, 11:1 isnt quite so bad but youd have to run pretty rich to ward off detonation with 12:1 and 8psi

xxxmonoxidechild

^^

theres no way he has that kind of compression from shaving the head. there would be major valve damage once he started it if he had that much shaved.


i say boost it on the compression you allready have.

keep in mind most FACTORY boosted cars these days have over 10-1 compression. kinda scarry when you think back to the 80's when alot of the boosted cars had 7-8-1...