Evo 8 Turbo
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Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 247
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From: Columbia, SC
Vehicle: 1999 Hyundai Tiburon
Yeah that's what i've been hearing. Yeah, I'll probably just wait a couple more paychecks to get grab SOCKS's FPR, injectors, and fuel rail kit.
I'm not completely sold on the FIC, but it probably would be the easier solution. When it comes down to it, that will probably be
the route I will take. It's had so much success and there is a lot of support in the community for it. Being how this is my first big
car mod, I don't want to mess it up.
May even implement a carpc into the turbo budget so I can wire everything up to interface. I was wanting to get one for my music and stuff
anyway. Kinda reminds somewhat of what the fast and furious is.
I'm not completely sold on the FIC, but it probably would be the easier solution. When it comes down to it, that will probably be
the route I will take. It's had so much success and there is a lot of support in the community for it. Being how this is my first big
car mod, I don't want to mess it up.
May even implement a carpc into the turbo budget so I can wire everything up to interface. I was wanting to get one for my music and stuff
anyway. Kinda reminds somewhat of what the fast and furious is.
QUOTE (ScoupeLS @ Oct 29 2009, 09:12 PM)
and the fic is very easy to install. it sounds like a lot of work but it is not. if you know what you are doing it can take you 1hr at the most to wire it up.
1 hour you say to wire up the Aem Fic?
I LOL at that my friend. I will take you the better part of a day to make your own plug and play harness.
Making your own PnP will allow you for any reason to remove it with no damage to you harness in your car.
Im still learning about the Fic too but im happy so far...
"If you dont do it right the first time, when will you have the time to fix it?"
it should take you one hour if you already know the ecu pinout and cut and solder the necessary wires. i know that making a PnP harness is very time consuming and will take time to get right.
Me personally, i would cut the oem harness...
Me personally, i would cut the oem harness...
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 247
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From: Columbia, SC
Vehicle: 1999 Hyundai Tiburon
That's the one thing I'm not comfortable with doing. I'm not about to cut into my harness.
I'd rather sit at a desk with my soldering gun and magnifying glass and make a PnP harness.
I'm sure it would be tedious. But working under the dash is not my favorite place to be.
Also making a PnP harness leaves me with the oem harness, which I could always switch back to go
back to stock if I ever have to.
I'd rather sit at a desk with my soldering gun and magnifying glass and make a PnP harness.
I'm sure it would be tedious. But working under the dash is not my favorite place to be.
Also making a PnP harness leaves me with the oem harness, which I could always switch back to go
back to stock if I ever have to.
Both the MS unit and AEM fIC offer what you are looking for when it comes to tuning. But unless you're looking to tune every aspect of the edu, the MS (IMO) would be overkill. Also, you mentioned primarily boosting the car to only 3-5psi? This would not call for any kind of additional fuel management, but is still obviously recommended. The FIC is a sort of piggyback really, and thats what you said you were looking for in your original post. All I'm really saying is that there are people here who have been dealing with these cars for the better part of a decade, and these are the people who find more use with a highly capable standalone like the MS, but for a relatively new tuner, I personally think it would be best to at least start out using a piggyback style management system like the FIC, especially at low boosts.
Here's some things to consider. A piggyback ECU like the SMT8 and TF-10 will be able to control upwards of 440cc injectors in the primary slot using the MAF signal. Why? Because they both have two analog inputs/outputs that can be used to intercept the TPS signal to trip open loop under boost. This is a much better option than the turbo box because it makes the transition MUCH smoother. The turbo box just goes from whatever TPS value to max TPS value with no smooth transition between the two. This can cause jerky operation as well as trip a CEL if the max voltage goes higher than what the Hyundai ECU expects under WOT.
Using a SMT8 or TF-10 to manipulate the TPS signal ensures that you have COMPLETE control over it as well as the ability to adjust what you want the max value to be. Both the SMT8 and TF-10 can add or subtract ignition timing and they both intercept both the cam and crank signals if necessary.
I personally run the TF-10 and LOVE it! It also has launch control and the ability to control a boost solenoid as well as run upwards of 10 secondary injectors.
Something new that just cropped up is the SMT8-T. This is the successor to the SMT6 and utilizes the new Let Ripp software. It can do complete timing control as well as control one subinjector. The price point of the SMT8T is looking to be between 225-250 SHIPPED. smile.gif
So IMHO, do you have lots of options? Yes! Is the MS a good option? Yes, if you a) have the money and b) are not subject to ODB emissions testing. Is the AEM FIC a good option? Yes, is it overkill for your power goals? Yes and you don't have as much support on the forums for it.
Using a SMT8 or TF-10 to manipulate the TPS signal ensures that you have COMPLETE control over it as well as the ability to adjust what you want the max value to be. Both the SMT8 and TF-10 can add or subtract ignition timing and they both intercept both the cam and crank signals if necessary.
I personally run the TF-10 and LOVE it! It also has launch control and the ability to control a boost solenoid as well as run upwards of 10 secondary injectors.
Something new that just cropped up is the SMT8-T. This is the successor to the SMT6 and utilizes the new Let Ripp software. It can do complete timing control as well as control one subinjector. The price point of the SMT8T is looking to be between 225-250 SHIPPED. smile.gif
So IMHO, do you have lots of options? Yes! Is the MS a good option? Yes, if you a) have the money and b) are not subject to ODB emissions testing. Is the AEM FIC a good option? Yes, is it overkill for your power goals? Yes and you don't have as much support on the forums for it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 247
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From: Columbia, SC
Vehicle: 1999 Hyundai Tiburon
I'll probably go with the AEM FIC, mostly because this is my first time doing a boost
and I want to have the most support possible, which we have for it.
and I want to have the most support possible, which we have for it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 247
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From: Columbia, SC
Vehicle: 1999 Hyundai Tiburon
I have a question about the Evo turbo. I heard from tibbytib that I could possibly decrease my boost by
getting a universal actuator of ebay for cheap and just make a bracket out of scrap metal. Just as long as
the metal can take the pressure. I was thinking about doing this, but would/does it cause any damage to the
turbo. I'm looking to boost lower like 6/7 psi without fuel management for maybe a month or two, then once I get
the fuel stuff I'll up it to 11psi stock.
Also my other option is to buy a used actuator for cheap and ripping it apart and cutting the spring down. This is the
one that should work, but it's just like a guessing game on how much to cut. With this idea could I buy a spring like the below
or would it not fit? If it does the resistance should be what I'm aiming for. It says 50 mm if there is a specific size that I should
look for to keep as close to stock as possible?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50mm-Red-5-...sQ5fAccessories
Which way would be best to prevent damage?
These are the actuators I'm talking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-T...sQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-TURBO...sQ5fAccessories
getting a universal actuator of ebay for cheap and just make a bracket out of scrap metal. Just as long as
the metal can take the pressure. I was thinking about doing this, but would/does it cause any damage to the
turbo. I'm looking to boost lower like 6/7 psi without fuel management for maybe a month or two, then once I get
the fuel stuff I'll up it to 11psi stock.
Also my other option is to buy a used actuator for cheap and ripping it apart and cutting the spring down. This is the
one that should work, but it's just like a guessing game on how much to cut. With this idea could I buy a spring like the below
or would it not fit? If it does the resistance should be what I'm aiming for. It says 50 mm if there is a specific size that I should
look for to keep as close to stock as possible?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/50mm-Red-5-...sQ5fAccessories
Which way would be best to prevent damage?
These are the actuators I'm talking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-T...sQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-TURBO...sQ5fAccessories


