labmixz

Ok...

First off some specs on the build:

GK 2.0 BetaII Engine

Fuel:
680cc Injectors
255lph Walbro Pump

Engine:
Block Overbored .5mm
Wiseco 9:! Forged Pistons
Pauter Connecting Rods
Crank-shaft Turned .10 Under
Crank-shaft Knife-Edged & Polished
Crank-shaft Balanced

Electrical:
GReddy eManage Ultimate
GReddy Pfec e01 Boost Controller
GReddy Full Auto Timer

Turbo Setup:
Master Power T3/T4 60trim Turbine
OBX Manifold (modified & ceramic coated)
Custom Piping
HKS SSQV BOV

Drivetrain:
SPEC Stage 3 Clutch
SPEC Lightweight Aluminium Flywhell

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Now, I myself don't know much about tuning the car I'm pretty good mechanically when it comes to cars, but the tuning aspect I'm really close to clueless... So I'd rather a shop do the tuning, only problem with this is I went to a local shop and had the car dyno tuned. At the time of the dyno we ran into some complications and could only tune it to 7psi...

Before the tune the car was running 24.9psi with no tuning, just some basic eManage settings so it could control the injectors... When it was wide open w/no tuning the car ran very very HARD and STRONG, but very very very very rich...

After the tune, I took it to the track about two days later, I didn't notive any problems after the tune, until I got to the track, when I was at the track during my runs I tried to shift at redline, when the rpm's dropped to anything above 4500rpm, it's like there was no boost, no fuel, no nadda... just a complete cut. But if you backed off the fuel pedal and let it read vacuum instead of boost, the car would come back and engine would be on, really seems like a fuel cut.

So, I've had a few other problems with the car, blown strut and some other things which made the car sit for long period of time, so I haven't been able to really tackle this fuel/boost cut issue... Then I thought it could be some other things, but conclusion was, the car was working w/o problems (just running pig rich) @ 24.9psi with no tuning... So one would thing it should be able to handle 7-14.7psi easily WITH tuning...

So that leaves me to believe something is wrong with the tune...

Now here's what racks my brain, the car SOMETIMES boosts perfectly, I mean flawlessly (and I love it) but about 75% of the time it has this issue where if it see's 0.01psi fuel/boost cut, immeadiatly and if you keep on the gas pedal just nothing... if you let off and let it read vacuum, then it will start to get fuel as long as you're in vacuum...

Now, as well, SOMETIMES if you hold it right at -0.01 and +0.01 the car will sputter keep it sputtering for about a minute or soo then boost will raise to about 3psi and then after that you can boost all the f you want to without problems until you shut off the car...

Speaking with other owners, a GK v6 guy had a similar problem wit the sputtering, he had a dirty MAF sensor so it turned out... So I thought oook... well, I thought the GReddy eM-U was suppose clamp the MAP sensor and use the GReddy Sensor... but w/e, so I replaced the MAP sensor with another stock MAP sensor I had laying around... Car boosted flawless for about two hours (or basically until I turned the boost to 14.7psi)...

Then dmdicks (over on nt.com) mentioned the map clamp should be set to 4.45v across the board, well, it wasn't...

Here's what it was from the dyno tune:
0500rpm - 4.00v
1000rpm - 4.00v
1500rpm - 4.00v
2000rpm - 4.00v
2500rpm - 4.00v
3000rpm - 4.00v
3500rpm - 4.00v
4000rpm - 4.00v
4500rpm - 4.00v
5000rpm - 3.70v
5500rpm - 3.70v
6000rpm - 3.70v
6500rpm - 3.70v
7000rpm - 3.70v
7500rpm - 3.70v
8000rpm - 3.70v


I changed it to:
0500rpm - 4.10v
1000rpm - 4.10v
1500rpm - 4.10v
2000rpm - 4.10v
2500rpm - 4.10v
3000rpm - 4.14v
3500rpm - 4.14v
4000rpm - 4.24v
4500rpm - 4.24v
5000rpm - 4.44v
5500rpm - 4.44v
6000rpm - 4.44v
6500rpm - 4.44v
7000rpm - 4.44v
7500rpm - 4.44v
8000rpm - 4.44v

Which resulted in almost no change...

So then I changed it to 4.46v across the board, now I'm noticing the issue to happen only about 50% of the time I run the car now vs. 75% of the time, but I'm noticing in some gears at 5500rpm a boost cut/fuel cut just like seeing any boost, except this is during boost... and again doesn't happen all the time, actually only seen it happen about three times out of 25 times...

Also here are some screenshots of what the guys at the dyno shop did as far as the eManage-U settings...

doesn't look like much... So I'm hoping someone here can give me some insight as to what could be wrong with this "tune"...

Please help

http://www.labmixz.net/images/emu1.jpg
http://www.labmixz.net/images/emu2.jpg

Also, I'm away of the ignition fix for this and greatful to find it, however I'm not going to work on that (as simplistic as it is) until I can figure out this problem...

MOD EDIT: pics are too big. replaced by links.

Denisst99

stock injectors on the beta 2 are rated at around 200-220cc
you have 680 wich is about 3 times larger injectors
i doubt you'll be able to have a nicely tuned set up with only an e-manage even with a SMT-6
the only way to run a set up like your without going standalone is to use a dual fuel rails set up

you're basicly fitghting with the ECU way too much
with 440 injectors you could do it (with lower boost also) but with 680. .you're asking for too much

labmixz

Then the question arises as to how it worked fine without the tune on 24.9psi and basic settings... Plus to my unerstanding, you should be able to use injectors this size with the eManage Ultimate more so than the regular eManage...

Of course I myself didn't want to go the eManage route, the shop that did this was building a kit for the tib, basically came to they got stuck on the ignition part of the eManage and had my car for nearly 14 months... so I took it back and started working on it myself, however, they had a 03' 4cyl eclipse w/eManage-Ultimate w/780+cc injectors... which impressed me on the eManage-Ultimate's ability to control that, so I agree'd to go with the eManage Ultimate instead of a stand-alone...

Not the brightest of moves on my part, put it's in there and I know t4turbo now has a good fix for the ignition, so that takes care of that, so I see no reason why the eM-U can't handle what I have...

Might mention, that since the shop that did the initial work was taking too long and lying to me amongst other things that basically forced me to take my car back from them, they did not get to tune the car, instead I had a mustang shop dyno tune it and before my car they have NEVER seen a GReddy eManage or eManage Utlimate...

So I just believe something in the tune is whack.... cause the car ran fine before the tune, after it... shit...

Also throwing some codes...

P0262
Cylinder 1
Injector Control
Circuit High

P0268
Cylinder 3
Injector Control
Circuit High

P0271
Cylinder 4
Injector Control
Circuit High

P0265
Cylinder 2
Injector Control
Circuit High

P0340
Camshaft Position
Sensor A - Bank 1
Circuit Malfunction

Denisst99

codes are simple...
your ecu doesn't like when it sees another device trigguering the injectors
you need to install some kind of diode to blind the computer
for the other code check the cam & cranks sensors and harness

if it ran well without any tuning,then unplug the battery to reset the ECU it should drive well until the ECU relearns and conteracts your e-manage settings
you might be busting your MAP sensors appart too,did you comfirm the new one is still good?

why not save this actual tune map, then out the emanage to "0" everywhere to check what will happen?

for the ignition fix we've come with a way of doing it with the smt-6 without hacking the ECU,wich seamed to make the computer overheat a bit (t4turbo had to put fans on his ECU)

labmixz

t4 posted a new way, if I'm correct in thinking the way you are thinking about used the darlington array, which did cause overheating issues, I have the darlington array made and the resistor pack, but never finished it due to reading about the overheating issues... Plus I'm not really afraid to open up the ECU, I work with computer components all day and am a programmer myself... just not so great at the aspects of tuning (go figure...)

But the other night ran into http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtopic=12011&st=0 which actually is a old post but I didn't see it when they were troubleshooting my eManage issue at the shop (tells you how long my car has been sitting) which I plan to do soon as this problem is resolved...

As far as the MAP sensor's blowing, yes I would be in agree'ance with you there, but one of the features of the ultimate is the ability to clamp the stock sensor to a certain voltage... I'm wondering if that clamp setting is incorrect... dmdicks told me it was to be 4.45v across the board...

Basically by the clamp setting it should read to the ECU a good voltage as so the ECU doesn't throw a code... but it seems like it's not doing this or doing this properly... Not sure if this MAP sensor is blown or not, not really sure how I can test it tbh, other than sticking it in another tib and seeing the result?

I've reset the ECU several times, sometimes there is a change, sometimes there is no change...

And the tune map is saved, I had thought about putting 0's everywhere and trying it that way, but really didn't want to play with that yet, trying to take a more forward approach to see if anyone can see anything wrong with the way it's set now, rather than going backwards... (but sometimes thats the only way...)

Denisst99

the darlington way or externa lignitor won't make the computer overheat...
the internal hacking(at the ECU transistor) wil lmake it overheat, just re-read the topic

yes the clamps function does work,but if the diaphragm inside the map sensor blows away then what are you left with to cheat?

labmixz

ahh... hmm, see thats what I was wondering, since I myself am not too familiar with the workings of the MAP, I wasn't too sure if the MAP sensor was blown if it could still be cheated by the eManage to fool the ECU...


So I guess what your saying is if it's blown, it's blown, the eManage won't be able to clamp it properly therefore the ECU will pick it up as being bad...

Correct?

If this is true, I guess I need to go buy a MAP... lol, cause once this new MAP saw 14.7psi thats when the problem came up again... So my initial response was "just blew that one" but I thought the eManage was suppose to "phase" out the stocker to the point where it wasn't being used by the ECU at all... (so I was explained by the previous shop)

Denisst99

well.. up to a point you could (at least with the smt6) do a complete tuning map with being connected to a map or MAF sensor
but this is going to be a hell of a job to simulate all the vacuum,boost,rpm and load point
what you could do in your case would be to dump the hyundai map sensor and either get a GM 3 bar map sensor or the koreen 2.5 map sensor(it's bolt on) but either ways you'll have to redo your whole tuning map

t4turbotiburon

As I told you before I ran into problems with the igntiion and additional injection side of the emanage The intiion fix is fairly simple I posted a fix for that but as denist stated I had some overheating issues which were easily taken care of with a pcu fan Never had any problems after the fan was installed. However to gain full functionality of the emanage ultimate unless denist has figured a fix for the injection side of things your sol. Take it back to the shop and demand strongly that you wish it to be removed at there expense and replaced with a standalone the way it should have been done in the first place. Any good reputable shop will do some research and find that the emanage was not the way to go for a coustomer install and agree to remove it if you pay for the standalone and will most likely credit you for the emanage ultimate. If i owned a shop I would do so. If they wont I would recomend walking out the door and NEVER going back to them. Jmho though.

labmixz

I would love to take it back to the shop, but that's not an option...

Short explanation is I caught them lying to me, becuase they had the car there foover 14 months, 5 of those months they told me they were speaking with GReddy on this issue... one day bored at work I saw an ad for the GReddy eManage U and underneath it a tech support line, called the tech support line to see if they were really aware of the issue w/my car... they werent', infact didn't have any records of my shop calling.

So, needless to say when I called the owner of the shop and first thing I said was "Jimmy, I just called GReddy..." he interrupts me with "come get your car now"... and repeats that over and over... so I came w/ the police and got my car, with dash torn completly off, most engine components out, seats out, etc, etc...

Now I have a law suit against them as well...

So, going back there isn't a choice...

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What would you recommend for a decent prices Stand-alone for my situation?

And what all extra components would I need with the recommended standalone? (ie: any extra knock or temp sensors??)