alright so how should i run it for a little as posible power loss? im sorta new to 4 cyl cars. my other car is a 79 z28 with a 327, outa my 68, that me an my dad rebuilt last summer, wich lead to 3mpg, wich is why i have the tib. but back to topic any way, how can i run it form the x-pipe for a power gain, or should i back track to the end of my header and modify the stock to fit onto the header. and is flowmaster a way to go with 4 cyls as well?

and yes i will do the jet coatinfg cause i now realize i have alot more to do beore install.

 

run one single pipe all the way back at the end spit to two not before, because you dont have a path to run two and it will be too low to the ground. watch out for the charcoal box at the end on the drivers side. just get a single exhaust they work better and you wont lose any power, this is a 4 cyl not a v-8 do a nice single and save the headache

 

4-2-1 headders with a 68mm center pipe all the way back to the muffler... for anything with street cams 4-1 headder is better.. anything bigger and you will loose power...

 

If you coat them right, it will NOT flake off and its a lot cheaper than jet hot. I have my turbo manifold coated with vhf flameproof ceramic based paint and I have had my EGT temps up pretty high and I have had no problems with chipping/peeling/cracking. It cost me about 8$ instead of like 100$ and downtime.



Im not understanding why you would want to go with dual exhaust on your tib though, specially considering you wanna almost run TRUE duals.. not a good idea.. best way to run duals without loss of power is ONE exhaust all the way to the rear axle and get a high flowing muffler with dual outlets. (fig.1) Another way is to run an inline muffler and split the exhaust with a Y pipe near the end. (fig.2)



Here is a SWEET graphic representation of what im talking about. ROFL..

 

^^^
Then you are the only one that the paint has worked for. DTN, Javageek, and dozens of other members have tried the home coating sprays and such, and they all flake.

I've got the same complaints on RSW, and almost every other site I post on.

The biggest problem is, the home spray on shit, won't get you anywhere near the effectiveness of a TRUE Ceramic or Thermal Dispersion coating. It'll keep temps down a bit, but you are talking the difference between 10 degrees cooler and 100 degrees cooler.

Jet Hot is actually VERY affordable. I cheaped ot on my last coating and went local, and the quality wasn't anywhere near as good as Jet Hot does. Our site discount is either 20 or 30%, I can't remember.

As for your duals, do what SOCKS said. Go all the way back with a nice sized pipe, single, and then go into a single in, dual out muffler, that has smaller sized outlets than theinlet. IE: Inlet is 2.5 inch, the outlets should be like 2.25 or 2 inch.

That'll work much better.

 

well, with dtns not working... do i even need to go into why his probably didn't work...

and it all depends on the sprays you work and if you bake it.. it NEEDS to be baked..

without that process it wont cure and it will chip.. i have tried a few different coatings and only had the one work effectively.

im not saying this stuff does much for cooling, but it makes it look real nice and is cheap as hell.

i believe if prepped right it will work. the stuff viper had on his car before java got it jet hot coated, looked like the duplicolor junk. i have never had that work under high temps.

if anyone wants a spare header coated, i will put money on it not chipping and will just charge shipping.

and as far as the duals go. my brother had the dual out type setup on his cavalier and it sounded really good. he used a camaro RS muffler i believe.

 

Actually redz, you'd want to keep the area the same.

Let's take pi=3.14

Inlet area: 2.5 inch: 3.14x(2.5/2)^2= 4.906 sq. in.

Therefore...

Outlet area: 4.906/2 (since there are two tips): 2.453 sq in each side;

The diameter would have to be: 2xsqrt(2.453/3.14)=1.76 in diameter each side.

That would mean that if he did 2.5inch to 2 inch duals, the area would be bigger than the initial one, causing a low pressure area... slowing down the gases... loosing power. The best would be 2.5 single to 1.75 dual.

 

That's what I was saying, I just am not doing the math, as I could care less. LOL And I'm not being paid to do math, and that's the onlytime I do math anymore.

My guess was close.

 

Bah, it takes like 2 minutes to tap that on a calc, lol, I just happen to be studying for my final in geometrical tolerances on mechanical products and I had a calc handy, and I was just wondering myself what the needed diameter would be wink1.gif

so i guess i just threw it out there and now people can see without doing the math themselves lol

 

Yes. Yes you do need to go into it. I've tried 3 brands and followed directions to the tee.

Starting with sand blasting, moving onto cleaning thoroughly, blasting with an airhose to dry, waiting 1 hour, spraying 2 light coats, then 1 medium wet coat. wait 3 hours, bake for (insert manufacturer's suggested time and heat here), or as the manufacturer suggested for plasticoat to put the header on the car and run it, waited for one week and sprayed nitrous. One time I didn't even spray nitrous, i waited 4 days and then took a 200 mile drive to the NOPI Nationals at the Atlanta motor speedway and it started flaking.

Trust me I know what the hell I'm doing. You seem to be the only one who got it to work. Please put up your secrets... I'm thinking that the materials the headers are made of expand and contract too much to retain the stiff paint and it flakes off.