Con Rods/ Ignition/fuel
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I just need some advice from you turbo guys out there. I am going to run 15-17psi for my autocross project car, but i was wondering if the stock rods would be able to handle it or if i should just get a set of pauter rods? As for the ignition and piggyback(or do i need a standalone?) i have no idea what to do crazy.gif someone please help me!!!
and just for a heads up i contacted quaife and they said they are making a gear type differential for our RD2's (its finishing testing) so we dont have to settle for the lame clutch type diffs anymore
and just for a heads up i contacted quaife and they said they are making a gear type differential for our RD2's (its finishing testing) so we dont have to settle for the lame clutch type diffs anymore
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
15-17 psi with what turbo?
I have been running 15-16 psi on my stock rods no problems so far.
also the quaife lsd's are gear not clutch type lsds.
15-17 psi on our stock computer with a piggyback lmao.gif ..invest in a standalone fing02.gif
I have been running 15-16 psi on my stock rods no problems so far.
also the quaife lsd's are gear not clutch type lsds.
15-17 psi on our stock computer with a piggyback lmao.gif ..invest in a standalone fing02.gif
Thread Starter
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QUOTE (Gary @ Sep 5 2005, 03:07 AM)
15-17 psi with what turbo?
I have been running 15-16 psi on my stock rods no problems so far.
also the quaife lsd's are gear not clutch type lsds.
I have been running 15-16 psi on my stock rods no problems so far.
also the quaife lsd's are gear not clutch type lsds.
I mapped it out for a Garrett GT 2860RS 60mm, 62 trim, .60 A/R (full boost @17psi by 3K if i can get a divided housing)
So i should be safe running on them even though its goin to be a race only car?
As for the diff being a gear type...thats what i said...i only said we dont have to settle for the clutch type anymore
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ok sounds good...where did you buy your quaife, and the standalone will take care of all the fuel and timing for me or will i have to buy new ignition parts(ex. coils) how long do i have for this gb cuz its a helluva deal
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the emanage is also a good fuel option with a second fuel rail.. u have full control over secondary rail witgh use of MAP sensor and sub injector harness, and dont have the huge hassle of standalone.. you could use MSD ignition, or the Greddys ignition harness for ignition timing..
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ok, thought about it, i didnt have any emanage problems or related problems with the emanage. i had my shitty wiring job on the ignition side of it, which i crossed the two signals, fixed now. and the rest is completely un related to the emanage. standalone is hella more wiring, and will cost alot more to get it wired and to me is pointless on a daily driven car... at any time, i can just un plug my emanage harness and go back to stock ECU settings.
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From: San Antonio, TEXAS!!!
Vehicle: 01 Tiburon Turbo, 99 Tiburon F2E, 2013 Avalon XLE Touring
I didn't think I needed to explain it but........
PRS:
12 wires and we have a base map. That's only a couple more wires than a SAFC. It uses the stock wiring system so it's clean. You can eliminate the MAF sensor. You can do anything with the timing, including revlimiter and governing. Fan control. Boost control. Nitrous control. Antilag. OMGZORZ it goes on and on.
Emanage Dual Rail system:
The same amount of wires. No one has provided a good base map yet. Need to find extra injectors and another fuel rail. Need to weld on injector bungs. Need to weld on the extra fuel rail. Still have the shitty ECU with timing issues. Looks like crap in the engine bay. Never gonna get over 300whp out of it. Still have the MAF sensor. Can't control fans, antilag, nitrous, etc.
It's great that you got it already built as a kit, but not everyone can weld together another fuel rail system.
Price wise they're about the same. I'm betting the PRS is a lot cheaper though.
Try to think about why Tim got rid of that system after a month of running it and got himself a PRS instead.
Obviously instead of researching what is exactly involved in a standalone, you've listened to the ricers that think it's some kind of super computer and impossible to wire yourself.
PRS:
12 wires and we have a base map. That's only a couple more wires than a SAFC. It uses the stock wiring system so it's clean. You can eliminate the MAF sensor. You can do anything with the timing, including revlimiter and governing. Fan control. Boost control. Nitrous control. Antilag. OMGZORZ it goes on and on.
Emanage Dual Rail system:
The same amount of wires. No one has provided a good base map yet. Need to find extra injectors and another fuel rail. Need to weld on injector bungs. Need to weld on the extra fuel rail. Still have the shitty ECU with timing issues. Looks like crap in the engine bay. Never gonna get over 300whp out of it. Still have the MAF sensor. Can't control fans, antilag, nitrous, etc.
It's great that you got it already built as a kit, but not everyone can weld together another fuel rail system.
Price wise they're about the same. I'm betting the PRS is a lot cheaper though.
Try to think about why Tim got rid of that system after a month of running it and got himself a PRS instead.
Obviously instead of researching what is exactly involved in a standalone, you've listened to the ricers that think it's some kind of super computer and impossible to wire yourself.
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i didnt get any info from any ricers, and the duel fuel rail requires absolutely no welding whatsoever.. i dont know how to weld, nor will i probably ever learn.. its a bolt up spacer.. super easy to install..
doesnt really look like crap, maybe my injector harness, since i just slapped it on right now to see if it works, but haveing two fuel rails is nice.. 2uniq for example has a haltech and is going with two fuel rails so he can have a no boost reg idle and so forth rail and a boost rail..
never gonna get over 300whp with it? why not? if that was my goal i would go for it, but im building a fun to drive street car.. not everyone is looking for 300+whp. but i almost guarentee i will be able to surpass 300whp with this setup, of course installing rods and pistons. t4 turbo tib is using the emanage setup, and he will be well over 400whp.
seems as if you havent looked much into the emanage. ever heard of haus tool? u can control alot more stuff than you think, even using an autotune program, where you can set an AFR (i.e 13.50) and it will adjust tuning setting to stay close to 13.5 at set parameters.
tim got rid of his setup because hes building all out drag car, hopefully 400+whp which wouldnt be much fun as a daily.. 95% of the guys on here are building street cars/daily drivers, and really wouldnt need the standalone.
i was provided with a good base map to start with, rich, but good in almost all areas. just have to ask around..
doesnt really look like crap, maybe my injector harness, since i just slapped it on right now to see if it works, but haveing two fuel rails is nice.. 2uniq for example has a haltech and is going with two fuel rails so he can have a no boost reg idle and so forth rail and a boost rail..
never gonna get over 300whp with it? why not? if that was my goal i would go for it, but im building a fun to drive street car.. not everyone is looking for 300+whp. but i almost guarentee i will be able to surpass 300whp with this setup, of course installing rods and pistons. t4 turbo tib is using the emanage setup, and he will be well over 400whp.
seems as if you havent looked much into the emanage. ever heard of haus tool? u can control alot more stuff than you think, even using an autotune program, where you can set an AFR (i.e 13.50) and it will adjust tuning setting to stay close to 13.5 at set parameters.
tim got rid of his setup because hes building all out drag car, hopefully 400+whp which wouldnt be much fun as a daily.. 95% of the guys on here are building street cars/daily drivers, and really wouldnt need the standalone.
i was provided with a good base map to start with, rich, but good in almost all areas. just have to ask around..