Cams
#1
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Location: south korea, pyongtaek
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i have 270 degree cams in my setup but there from my previously na setup, i was reading on another site quote
"Stock, your intake duration is 228 degrees and your overlap is 18 degrees. The best set-up for forced induction is for you to retain your stock exhaust cam and switch to a 1.8L intake cam. This will reduce your overlap by 2 degrees to 16 degrees and increase your intake duration by 4 degrees to 232 degrees. Using the XD intake cam would also give you 232 degrees of duration, but instead of reducing your overlap by 2 degrees, you would increase it by 1 degree to 19 degrees."
from the experts with turbo setup is there any truth to that, should i switch my 270 degree cams and go with that setup, will it benefit me power wise or should i stay with my current setup?
"Stock, your intake duration is 228 degrees and your overlap is 18 degrees. The best set-up for forced induction is for you to retain your stock exhaust cam and switch to a 1.8L intake cam. This will reduce your overlap by 2 degrees to 16 degrees and increase your intake duration by 4 degrees to 232 degrees. Using the XD intake cam would also give you 232 degrees of duration, but instead of reducing your overlap by 2 degrees, you would increase it by 1 degree to 19 degrees."
from the experts with turbo setup is there any truth to that, should i switch my 270 degree cams and go with that setup, will it benefit me power wise or should i stay with my current setup?
#2
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Location: South Korea where u car from fool
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Vehicle: 2008/Hyundai/Tiburon gt
anything above 270 is for the higher rpm range 6000+ granted you have done all prep work AKA meaning PP head. valve work, duel springs. you would be better running 268 int&exh. for your driveing style. since you dont have the nessary work dont to support the higher lift ..
#3
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Vehicle: 1998 Hyundai Coupe
I have 270 degree cams in my tib here in the UK and I just blown a hole in the piston.....so make sure you have the engine prep done before you go mad on the throttle. I did loose bottom end power.
#5
The only true way to find out is do seperate dyno runs for the two differant cam sets, not many people have experiance with bigger cams in the beta and most opinions you get will be just that, an opinion.
#6
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
I doubt it,
You could however buy the adjustable exhaust cam gear and intake cam sproket and use them to reduce your overlap and tune for power.
You might gain some resposiveness with the stock cams due to less reversion of exhaust gas back into the chamber at low throttle, but I would guess you would lose some of your top end power.
You could however buy the adjustable exhaust cam gear and intake cam sproket and use them to reduce your overlap and tune for power.
You might gain some resposiveness with the stock cams due to less reversion of exhaust gas back into the chamber at low throttle, but I would guess you would lose some of your top end power.
#9
so whats the deal if you want to run 270 degree cams on non forced induction? im playing with the idea of some cams for a bit more power. imod wise i have and exhaust, 4-2-1 manifold, evo cam, lightened crank pully, aem cai and a safc neo to tune it all. would the cams work well in my car or not?
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Vehicle: 1998/Hyundai/Tiburon FX
Since we are on the topic of cams; I have a somewhat technical question for everyone.
To advance cam timing on the exhaust side, you spin the cam counter clock-wise in the outer gear ring. So to advance the intake cam alone, I spin the intake cam clockwise in the adjustable sprocket right?
Only reason I ask is because the closer I go to zero on the intake side, the rougher my idle gets (which would mean I am increasing overlap by moving the intake cam back to zero timing (less advanced)). Am I doing something backwards here? Was I retarding my intake cam and reducing overlap by spinning it clockwise in the adjustable sprocket?
Any help here from you more knowledgable folks would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
^^^BTW: Get the larger camshafts if you have the money, I ran my SR 268's for a year on an SAFCII with no issues, a CEL for misfires due to the crazy idle, but the car ran EXCELLENT. Probably at least 10-15 whp with just the SAFCII. I am curious now how much power I can squeeze out of it with the haltech and a good tune for a change.
To advance cam timing on the exhaust side, you spin the cam counter clock-wise in the outer gear ring. So to advance the intake cam alone, I spin the intake cam clockwise in the adjustable sprocket right?
Only reason I ask is because the closer I go to zero on the intake side, the rougher my idle gets (which would mean I am increasing overlap by moving the intake cam back to zero timing (less advanced)). Am I doing something backwards here? Was I retarding my intake cam and reducing overlap by spinning it clockwise in the adjustable sprocket?
Any help here from you more knowledgable folks would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
^^^BTW: Get the larger camshafts if you have the money, I ran my SR 268's for a year on an SAFCII with no issues, a CEL for misfires due to the crazy idle, but the car ran EXCELLENT. Probably at least 10-15 whp with just the SAFCII. I am curious now how much power I can squeeze out of it with the haltech and a good tune for a change.