Turbo & Supercharge (Forced Induction) Posts regarding Turbochargers, Superchargers and any other method for Forced Induction.

Bta swap Turbo

Thread Tools
 
Old 03-26-2011, 02:09 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
nos4atu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2012 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs, 2001 hyundai tiburon
Default Bta swap Turbo

Wondering a few things about beta 2 blocks? How similar are they? How well does the head beta 2 head bolt to the beta 1 IM? Bore size? I know the beta 1 is 82mm, is the beta 2 different? Also going to be running MS for management, but know that I have to do numerous sensor swaps as you would an N/A beta swap.



Thee reason that I ask is that I'm gathering parts to build a full turbo, came across a decent shape gk in a pick n pull, that hasn't or will be touched in some time. Wanted to just get the tranny, but figured since I'll have to pull the motor too, what will I need to do, to turbo that motor and drop it into the RD.



Planning to go with low comp pistons and rods(already purchased for a beta 1 turbo build), so just wondering if it's a task worth doing or just take the tranny and find another beta 1 block to work on.



Btw I have Tanc's bored IM and TB, so I'd rather keep it and get a beta 1 if the two aren't compatible.
Old 03-26-2011, 02:38 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Turboron_99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kent, Wa
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 13 Gen Coupe Ult.
Default

What year Beta 1 block you got, there are two diffrent styles out there. You got a 35MM crank, and a 41MM Crank???



If you know which one you got, we can tell you if there alike, but you will need a few sensors off the Beta 1 to put on into that Beta 2 to make it work. Also why not use a FIC. Cheap and will do everything you want really.
Old 03-26-2011, 03:04 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
nos4atu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2012 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs, 2001 hyundai tiburon
Default

'01 beta block, if the parts aren't compatible, probably go with another 35 mm crank engine.



Going with ms 'cause I wanna eliminate the MAF.
Old 03-26-2011, 06:02 PM
  #4  
Super Moderator
 
turbosocks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 1,304
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2001 hyundai tiburon
Default

whats your reasoning for wanting to eliminate the MAF?
Old 03-26-2011, 09:27 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Turboron_99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Kent, Wa
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 13 Gen Coupe Ult.
Default

SO you want to spend an extra... 400 dollars, and elimnate the MAF... HMMM... Reasoning???



There are tons of people running MAFS. I have had ZERO MAF issues ever, all you got to do is lock your max Voltage, and bam. Also I have tosay Tuning wise the FIC is like 100000000000 times easier to understand than MS.
Old 03-27-2011, 09:45 AM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
nos4atu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2012 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs, 2001 hyundai tiburon
Default

Why? Personal preference, that's why. I'm not a fan of a plastic tube in a pressurized system.(I know Denisst sells metal ones, but I think that it would be less hassle in the long run.



As for reasoning, who needs reasoning? I'm stubborn and I have a plan in my head.



Soooo, basically, back to the question at hand, how similar are beta 1 and 2 blocks and can I bolt a beta 1 intake mani to a beta 2 head?
Old 03-27-2011, 11:19 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
faithofadragon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: tacos
Posts: 9,533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2000 Elantra
Default

lol people are funny



plastic tube in a pressurized system....mustang guys run 40PSI and over 1000hp into a plastic maf and dont have problems i guess if you like doing 10x the work trying to get it to idle at all, then rewire half the vehicle just to get the megasquirt to work by all means go right ahead.



plus who said you had to absolutely get anything from denis? i support the guy GREATLY he works for a awesome shop. but before he even decided to offer that tube i just added a pipe and flange to my charge pipe







not to mention you can forget ever passing emissions with the MS if your local area does/plans on doing tests



anywho i have a beta 2 head with a beta 1 intake manifold, if you plan on running a beta 2 head, you gotta get rid of the restrictor in the block



beta 2 SUPPOSEDLY is a little stronger of a block, but in all reality, the beta 1 block has been to very very very high hp with no issues, so i cant see why you would bother buying a beta 2 short block if you already have a beta 1
Old 03-27-2011, 12:03 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
nos4atu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2012 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs, 2001 hyundai tiburon
Default

I live in a non-sniffer province. Here in Alberta, if a car is over 10 yrs old or purchased out of province then it needs a SAFETY inspection. Even then it's only the once during the duration of time you own your car.



I really don't see them running enviro tests on cars anytime soon. Not when there's half of the population of the province driving diesel pickups that puke black smoke at every hard launch.



The reason for the beta 2 is because there is an easily accessible one that is at a pick n pull.



Then I could take my time building up the engine, instead of rushing through cause my favorite car is down.



That and KFX has it down to pretty much PNP. Download James' MS data, upload to the car, and tweak from there. There may be a little more work involved to the MS but I don't mind. I'm quite content in getting to know my tib that intimately.



Thanks for answering the head question though. I appreciate the info.



And it's not so much the plastic, it's just the way it looks. Stupid, I know, but the look of that MAF has always bothered me. That's why I said personal preference.



I know also that either the emanage or smt-6(can't quite remember which at the moment) eliminates the MAF too through voltage clamping, but I really haven't heard too many negative comments about the megasquirt other then it takes more effort, and I want to go that route.



You all can bash me for not going with a FIC if you want, but it isn't going to change my mind.



See above, I'm incredibly stubborn.
Old 03-27-2011, 12:09 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
SR Tech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Albany,NY
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2011 Tuscon
Default

https://www.hyundaiaftermarket.org/f...eta1-vs-beta2/



There's your differences
Old 03-27-2011, 12:12 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
nos4atu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Red Deer
Posts: 829
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Vehicle: 2012 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs, 2001 hyundai tiburon
Default

Read that thread earlier, didn't really answer the questions in my head.




All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:35 PM.