Breaking in a new built engine
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: denver, co
Vehicle: 2001 turbo elantra
This article claims to run brand new engines hard. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
My new built engine should be going in my Elantra around the 2nd week of March where I’ll be running a bigger turbo, new internals, new fuel, and better tuning. Then it goes to the painter to have a new paint job done. Its turning out to be an expensive project and I’m a little fearful of running it hard in order to break it in because I don’t want to destroy everything I have done and spent on the project. Can people tell me if what this guy wrote is true and if I should follow the guidelines. The engine is a brand new beta with less than 500 miles on it. My tranny also has a brand new stage 3 clutch, light weight flywheel, and new syncros with MT-90 fluid.
My new built engine should be going in my Elantra around the 2nd week of March where I’ll be running a bigger turbo, new internals, new fuel, and better tuning. Then it goes to the painter to have a new paint job done. Its turning out to be an expensive project and I’m a little fearful of running it hard in order to break it in because I don’t want to destroy everything I have done and spent on the project. Can people tell me if what this guy wrote is true and if I should follow the guidelines. The engine is a brand new beta with less than 500 miles on it. My tranny also has a brand new stage 3 clutch, light weight flywheel, and new syncros with MT-90 fluid.
You ever been to an engine builders shop? They'll take a new engine, warm it up and beat the snot out of it. Pressure on the rings will start shaving the the cylinder to a perfect fit. But you have a limited amount of time to do this before the edge of the rings wear down. As long as the engine was made in a clean shop and all the clearances are correct ... run it. At least don't baby it, that's the worst thing you can do.
Thirty years ago you needed to baby it because the precision on engine building was not as accurate as it is today. Machines and technology allow for much closer machining, along with repeatability. Where tolerances were in the thousands, now they're in the tenths of thousands.
Thirty years ago you needed to baby it because the precision on engine building was not as accurate as it is today. Machines and technology allow for much closer machining, along with repeatability. Where tolerances were in the thousands, now they're in the tenths of thousands.
Last time,All I did was use break in oil for the first "no boost "100 kms, then oem oil for the next 900 kms, still staying out of boost mostly.. my stage 4 clutch had a 1000km break in period, then, royal purple and up the boost,then hit the dyno and track...
Follow new car recommendations and you'll be fine. Stay below 55 for the first 500 miles which means no highway driving. Use non-synthetic oil to aid break-in and change it at 500 and 1000 miles. After that throw full synthetic in and enjoy!
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,021
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From: Illinois
Vehicle: 2010 Genesis Coupe 2L track
The first 20 miles is the most important in getting the rings to seat. Manufacturer recommendations are for their warranty proposes not optimal engine operation. Are you looking for the most power or the longest lasting motor?
Stay below 55? Dave ... so I can have it in 3rd gear and all is good, so long as I'm under 55?? :biggrin:
Like I said above ... 30 years ago you might do stuff like that. Today ... drive it hard for the first day or two ... at least the first tank of gas, then change the oil and your done ... synthetic or non-synthetic, either will do.
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,021
Likes: 1
From: Illinois
Vehicle: 2010 Genesis Coupe 2L track



