Bluerd2's Build Thread- The Turbo-ron
Well, some of you may know, some of you may not know...I recently purchased SilverBullet's turbo kit..
For the price he was offering and what came included made it a hard offer to pass up.
Over the past weeks ive been slowly fixing, cleaning and buying parts to make everything work.
Lets get down to it....
--The plans-- Run 10psi and under on an unopen motor and on a budget...But not like super cheap, I want it to be reliable.
-Miles on the car: 43k
Motor runs perfect dosent burn oil or anything.
-Turbo List-
The power plant will be a t3/t4 Airesearch garrett turbo. From what im told its an oem saab turbo.
When I got the turbo, it had some unforseen problems.... One exhaust stud was broken off in the exhaust housing, 2 threads on the intake housing were striped pretty good, the compressor wheel was rubbing on the intake side slightly, and part of a fin was missing....
This was the hard part, and I had serious doubts. I drilled out the exhaust bolt and salvaged some of the threads. The 2 threads on the intake side had a a little salvageable coils left, and with the combination of new bolts it worked perfectly. Lastly, the rubbing of the compressor wheel....I got a used piston ring from a gokart at my job, stightened it and used it as a shim between the housing and the main par of the turbo. This eliminated the rubbing and helped lock the intake housing in place. Helped clock it. As for the missing part of the fin...I will eventually buy a new compressor or even new turbo in the future, but for now it should work.
It may seem like a complete waste of time to many of you, to fix the turbo, but I dont really have the money for a Brand new turbo.
Picture time!!
Log Style Manifold
Wastegate
turbo
turbo front
mani, turbo, wg, dp
All were painted with high temp header paint, I will wrap the downpipe in the future with header wrap.
gauges and pods
Prosport boost and oil pressure, and Aem Wideband Uego. I have 4 pods because I was testing out various spots for the gauges.
AEM FIC and PnP harness
The brains...Lemme tell you it was a B*1*h to make my own Plug and play harness but totally worth it.
Slim fan
Ebay- flows 1500 cfm I believe...
sandwich plate, pressure sensor, oil and coolent lines
Needed a plate for the pressure sensor, got it off glowshift, they ship fast good company.
Intercooler pipe and couplers
I will eventually get better pipe and couplers but this will work fine for now. After grinding and sanding the pipes I put some flat black on them and bam.
clamps and gaskets
intercooler
main charge pipe
The main charge pipe was leaking air at the welds, epoxy was a quick and easy fix.
BOV
Bov also leaked at the adaptor, I put some sealent inside.
oil pan
Sanded and painted the oil pan.
So this is it so far...Its not anything super, or a brand name everything, but if I concentrate on the important parts It will suite my needs..
Its my budget turbo kit.
O yah Im waiting on the injectors from socks, they are in the mail tongue.gif
Lemme hear you comments. cool.gif
For the price he was offering and what came included made it a hard offer to pass up.
Over the past weeks ive been slowly fixing, cleaning and buying parts to make everything work.
Lets get down to it....
--The plans-- Run 10psi and under on an unopen motor and on a budget...But not like super cheap, I want it to be reliable.
-Miles on the car: 43k
Motor runs perfect dosent burn oil or anything.
-Turbo List-
The power plant will be a t3/t4 Airesearch garrett turbo. From what im told its an oem saab turbo.
When I got the turbo, it had some unforseen problems.... One exhaust stud was broken off in the exhaust housing, 2 threads on the intake housing were striped pretty good, the compressor wheel was rubbing on the intake side slightly, and part of a fin was missing....
This was the hard part, and I had serious doubts. I drilled out the exhaust bolt and salvaged some of the threads. The 2 threads on the intake side had a a little salvageable coils left, and with the combination of new bolts it worked perfectly. Lastly, the rubbing of the compressor wheel....I got a used piston ring from a gokart at my job, stightened it and used it as a shim between the housing and the main par of the turbo. This eliminated the rubbing and helped lock the intake housing in place. Helped clock it. As for the missing part of the fin...I will eventually buy a new compressor or even new turbo in the future, but for now it should work.
It may seem like a complete waste of time to many of you, to fix the turbo, but I dont really have the money for a Brand new turbo.
Picture time!!
Log Style Manifold
Wastegate
turbo
turbo front
mani, turbo, wg, dp
All were painted with high temp header paint, I will wrap the downpipe in the future with header wrap.
gauges and pods
Prosport boost and oil pressure, and Aem Wideband Uego. I have 4 pods because I was testing out various spots for the gauges.
AEM FIC and PnP harness
The brains...Lemme tell you it was a B*1*h to make my own Plug and play harness but totally worth it.
Slim fan
Ebay- flows 1500 cfm I believe...
sandwich plate, pressure sensor, oil and coolent lines
Needed a plate for the pressure sensor, got it off glowshift, they ship fast good company.
Intercooler pipe and couplers
I will eventually get better pipe and couplers but this will work fine for now. After grinding and sanding the pipes I put some flat black on them and bam.
clamps and gaskets
intercooler
main charge pipe
The main charge pipe was leaking air at the welds, epoxy was a quick and easy fix.
BOV
Bov also leaked at the adaptor, I put some sealent inside.
oil pan
Sanded and painted the oil pan.
So this is it so far...Its not anything super, or a brand name everything, but if I concentrate on the important parts It will suite my needs..
Its my budget turbo kit.
O yah Im waiting on the injectors from socks, they are in the mail tongue.gif
Lemme hear you comments. cool.gif
You know, I pretty much built my turbo build like yours. I spent money where money needed to be spent. I'd say make sure the wastegate is a name brand. Mine in internal, so its OEM quality anyways. I have an HKS ebay knock-off BOV and its holding pressure just fine at 10 PSI. I spent most of my money on the fueling and ignition stand alone, the turbo, and the fueling. These were in my opinion mission critical parts that, if failed, would mean a dead/blown engine.
I'd say definitely wrap the DP. Even IF it seems far away from the alternator. DO IT ANYWAYS. wink1.gif
Also, get some bead rolls on the ends of your IC piping. Is the piping aluminum??? I used a tail pipe expander that you can rent for free at most any national parts stores (autozone, Checker, Oriely's, etc..) Its amazing what even 10PSI can do!! Even with my IC piping rolled at the ends, I managed to blow a coupler here and there when we started boosting the car north of 8 PSI. Simply required putting a bit more torque on the t-bolt clamps.
In addition to bead rolling the ends of all your IC piping, use good quality t-bolt clamps. This combination worked really well for me and I have yet to have any more problems with blown couplings.
As far as the turbo, ook for good quality rebuilds. They are out there, you will just need to do mucho research on the shops that perform rebuilds. The biggest complaint you will find about rebuilds is that the shop flaked on balancing the turbine wheel. Its probably the most important part of the rebuild, and needs to be done properly. Will definitely save you some cash.
With my build, it wasnt necessarily the large parts that broke the bank, but all the nickel and diming for a-tool-here, an-adapter-there type shit that every build like this will have. Just be prepared for it, or have some friends in high places who can get you a tap or special tool on loan or super cheap.
GL man!!! Always nice to see another FI tib in the making!
I'd say definitely wrap the DP. Even IF it seems far away from the alternator. DO IT ANYWAYS. wink1.gif
Also, get some bead rolls on the ends of your IC piping. Is the piping aluminum??? I used a tail pipe expander that you can rent for free at most any national parts stores (autozone, Checker, Oriely's, etc..) Its amazing what even 10PSI can do!! Even with my IC piping rolled at the ends, I managed to blow a coupler here and there when we started boosting the car north of 8 PSI. Simply required putting a bit more torque on the t-bolt clamps.
In addition to bead rolling the ends of all your IC piping, use good quality t-bolt clamps. This combination worked really well for me and I have yet to have any more problems with blown couplings.
As far as the turbo, ook for good quality rebuilds. They are out there, you will just need to do mucho research on the shops that perform rebuilds. The biggest complaint you will find about rebuilds is that the shop flaked on balancing the turbine wheel. Its probably the most important part of the rebuild, and needs to be done properly. Will definitely save you some cash.
With my build, it wasnt necessarily the large parts that broke the bank, but all the nickel and diming for a-tool-here, an-adapter-there type shit that every build like this will have. Just be prepared for it, or have some friends in high places who can get you a tap or special tool on loan or super cheap.
GL man!!! Always nice to see another FI tib in the making!
Radu has the the pinouts for the beta 1, but on elantra xd they have the pinouts for the beta 2. I just followed where he taped and intercepted wires.
Tibbytib- thanks for all the info, I will definitely be upgrading parts.
Tibbytib- thanks for all the info, I will definitely be upgrading parts.
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
From: London, Ontario
Vehicle: 2011 Kawasaki ZX6R
^^ it is different. You take an old ecu and take it aprt and connect both plugs pin for pin, it takes about 8 hours to do if you know what you are doing.
I have made 2 and its a pita but its easier than soldering in your car.

I have made 2 and its a pita but its easier than soldering in your car.

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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,500
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Vehicle: x3 accent gk tiburon santa fe
that's not a t3 -t4
it's a regular t3
i'd say it has a .48 a/r turbine housing a .42 a/r comp housing and a 45 trim compressor wheel
basicly it will work up to about 250hp
for a stock bottom end go with a super 60 t3 they works nicely
it's a regular t3
i'd say it has a .48 a/r turbine housing a .42 a/r comp housing and a 45 trim compressor wheel
basicly it will work up to about 250hp
for a stock bottom end go with a super 60 t3 they works nicely
dude, i told you it was just a t3, not a hybrid tongue.gif like twice..
anyway, if the comp wheel is ok, it will do real well for your setup. i would upgrade in the future to a super 60 or a t3 .48AR turbine/.42AR comp with a 60 trim wheel.
setup should do you well, let me know if you have questions.
anyway, if the comp wheel is ok, it will do real well for your setup. i would upgrade in the future to a super 60 or a t3 .48AR turbine/.42AR comp with a 60 trim wheel.
setup should do you well, let me know if you have questions.


