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The best Intercooler CORES in your opinion?

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Old 03-22-2013, 04:05 AM
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I ordered a treadstone core, rear inlet/out let end tank from himni racing. The core was almost 300 US dollars and the end tanks we about 75 each

Their cores have been compared to Garrett cores very a like desing. I got the c12 intercooler which is good up to 700 or if you want the 4.5" that one is good up to 1000hp but I'm not that's not nessesary. They were in backordered 3 weeks I'm assuming its a good core. Just my two cents tho lol



Good luck finding the right one.
Old 03-22-2013, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Tibbi
Opinions/input?


Alright, had a bit of a think about this. Seems that you'll be having a low-boost setup with stock comp? Please correct me if I presume incorrectly. If this is the case, then I would suggest two possible approaches with a vertical flow cooler design:



1. A low-FPI, full-span tube and fin cooler made up of two square-ish cores which fills up the entire front bar, that will still allow good aireflow through to the radiator, OR,

2. A half- span, high-FPI vertical flow, bar and plate cooler which allows good airflow to the hot side of the radiator.



As above, since this will be a street car special attention will have to be paid to letting the radiator do its job well. Core-wise, I've used:



-Garrett, which doesn't seem to want to make tube and fin cores anymore, not sure about the US market. These are very good (only tested on circuit, NOT STREET) Best performance I've recorded in 42deg.C ambient temps in the middle of summer, about 40% ambient humidity, +-/ 4deg.C of ambient. NO ducting. The Garret cores seem more yaw-firendly at lower speeds. BAD: FPI is high, so for street use you may want to go for the half-span. Tested at about 28psi, Shell high-octane. BAD: No thin cores. Heavy. Very think, so you're gonna need to help the airflow along.



-ARC(you can cannibalize a couple of their STI eBay coolers, and have them re-welded into one vertical flow unit...they went out of business and have been bought out I think) These have a great tapered tube design, and let a good amount of air through to the radiator. Very light, low-FPI. BAD: Might not be in production anymore. VERY light.Thin, easy to package. VERY light. Nice, compact and efficient street coolers could be made from their cores. VERY yaw friendly in FMIC configuration. Utterly horrible in top-mount or V-mount configuration if no ducting.



-PWR: Aussie brand, can make a core to your specs. So that's good. About as efficient as the Garrett, but very expensive. Which is BAD. Not as heavy as the Garrets. Not as yaw-friendly, they seem to like open air. Ducting(if any) should be be mild.



-Spearco: no experience with them. At all.



-AVO: no experience with using them. MEGA HEAVY, so I rejected the part...



-DRiFT/China...don't waste your time with them. For the volume you'll need to make up for poor efficiency with, pressure drop might end up horrible.



Its not much, but I hope it helped a bit.
Old 03-25-2013, 12:36 PM
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Sounds good but I'm using low comp pistons (like I said above) and as far as pressure goes, I don't see myself staying low boost very long if at all.

As for heat, I can easily fab a shroud to channel air. I'm using the civic half core which will only occupy the left half of the core support, and being a 3 layer should cool more than adequately.



Looking into all of this info.
Old 03-26-2013, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Tibbi
Sounds good but I'm using low comp pistons (like I said above) and as far as pressure goes, I don't see myself staying low boost very long if at all.

As for heat, I can easily fab a shroud to channel air. I'm using the civic half core which will only occupy the left half of the core support, and being a 3 layer should cool more than adequately.



Looking into all of this info.


If you're using the Civic radiator, then the other half of the front mounting panel can be intercooler, and a common shroud used for both if you could be bothered to lay one up in either GFRP or CFRP. What worries me is that drivability is a major factor in a street car. Since you're not revving the tits off of it, the powerband can be moved toward the middle for a more civilized commute(also helps to not have to wait to build revs when you want to give it a bit...) This way, you may consider a square-ish core which has a smaller front cross section, but which is also deep(say, 80mm?) You may also want to consider building up a diffuser to place in front of the two cores if you go this route...the more efficiency you can eke out of a heat exchanger, the smaller you can make it, the less pumping losses, the better the engine response. And the friendlier the car gets.




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