New updated info for ordering Beta ARP Studs:



Main Studs:

Part #AM 3.800-1LB.........Qty 10 (M10x1.25 Studs) $5.12 ea

Part #200-8519............... Qty 10 (10mmID, .750"OD Black Washers) $0.89 ea

Part #300-8343................Qty 10 (10mm x 1.25 12pt Nuts) $4.03 ea



Head Studs:

Part #AM 4.500-1LB..........Qty 8 (M10x1.25 Studs) $5.49 ea.

Part #AU 7.250-1LB..........Qty 2 (M12x1.25 Studs) $11.62 ea.

Part #200-8519................Qty 8 (10mmID, .750"OD Black Washers) $0.89 ea

Part #200-8536................Qty 6 (12mm ID, 3/4" OD, Black Washers) $0.94 ea. *need 6 to shim the extra length of the stud*

Part #300-8343................Qty 8 (10mm x 1.25 12pt Nuts) $4.03 ea.

Part #300-8308................Qty 2 (12mm x 1.25 12pt Nuts) $4.33 ea.



Wheel Studs:

Part #100-7717.................Qty of 5 per pack (mitsu-evo8 studs)

Fits front exactly. To fit rear, machining may be required. Results may vary.

You will need open-ended lugnuts.





Torque Specs:

M10's = 60ftlbs. (with ARP lube)

M12's = 80ftlbs. (with ARP lube)

Rod bolts = 50ftlbs. (with ARP lube)

Add a couple lbs if using regular engine oil.





















Old thread info:





I don't think this was carried over from HA.com so here it is:





Here is Red's original post:

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>"AM 3.800-1LB" Qty 10 (Main cap M10x1.25 studs) $4.21 ea

"AM 4.500-1LB" Qty 8 (Cyl head M10x1.25 studs) $4.62 ea

"Special 6.83" Qty 2 (Cyl head M12x1.25 studs) $24.56 ea



"200-8519" Qty 18 (10mmID, .750"OD black washer) $1.37 ea

"200-8500" Qty 2 (12mmID, .875"OD black washer) $$1.28 ea

"300-8343" Qty 18 (10mm x 1.25 12pt nut) $5.36 ea

"300-8307" Qty 2 (12mm x 1.25 12pt nut) $4.55 ea



The special bolts were not as expensive as I originally remembered. Total cost on all the equipment was a bit over $200 for everything as I outlined above. The "special 6.83" is a 12mm stud with a 1.25mm thread pitch that is 6.83 inches long. They may have a better (cheaper) alternative now...</div>





They now have different prices. They also have a cross referenced part for the "special" bolt that is cheaper.



Updated by me:



<u>Main Studs:</u>

"AM 3.800-1LB" Qty 10 (Main cap M10x1.25 studs) $5.12 ea

"200-8519" Qty 10 (10mmID, .750"OD black washer) $0.89 ea

"300-8343" Qty 10 (10mm x 1.25 12pt nut) $4.03 ea



<u>Head Studs:</u>

"AM 4.500-1LB" Qty 8 (Cyl head M10x1.25 studs) $5.49 ea

"AU 7.250-1LB" Qty 2 (Cyl head M12x1.25 studs)

"200-8519" Qty 8 (10mmID, .750"OD black washer) $0.89 ea

"300-8343" Qty 8 (10mm x 1.25 12pt nut) $4.03 ea





These are "Jobber" prices. The retail will be roughly a $1 more per stud.

The special bolt/nuts/washer I will change as soon as I get the info from Dave Dickson as his ARP rep found a cross-referenced bolt. So like Red foresaw, there is a cheaper alternative now.

The guy was short with me and wouldn't look for anything I didnt know the part # to.



I called Hyundai to get other prices:

Rod bolts $2.50 ea

Main Cap bolts $0.39 ea

Head Gasket $95.03



So you could save about $50 by getting the main bolts from Hyundai.

I recall calling ARP a few years ago and they never had the 2 Main Longer studs?
They had the other 8 in stock but NOT 2 of the longer ones?
SO is ARP selling alll of them now for the Tiburon?

dam thanx a lot man

DMDicks' rep actually took the time to look for an alternative for us. He crossreferenced it to another standard bolt. He's trying to find his receipt to get the part #.

so which bolts do i need to replace the exhaust cam journal bolts ?? and what a bout the vavle cover ??

i want to put the 1.8 cam in, but with new bolts

i dont understand what main cap and cyl head means

For the cam journal bolts, you can just get some cheap ones from your local hardware store. Take one for comparison and get a high grade bolt.

what is the total menu, i need to order everthing asap.. help me out brother's
wavey.gif

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mad_john @ Jun 27 2005, 02:24 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>what is the total menu, i need to order everthing asap.. help me out brother's
wavey.gif
<div align='right'><{POST_SNAPBACK}></div></div>
JUST AN FYI

hyundai doesnt recommend changing the head bolts when the head is pulled...

its a tsb on hma service , but your welcome to if you want to (i still did )

I was told by my shop guy to re-use the head bolts also because they are already heat stretched. That's what he does to all of his personal motors. And they run 9's.
The only bolts you really need to worry about are the rod bolts if you're using the stock rods.

Well, after many time calling ARP and running around. waiting 3 week for a reply on the 2 speical m12 studs for the head this is what they quoted me... i am super pissed off. at this What the f*** doesn't even come close.. not when it was 24
bucks and now this!!! they are not speical in any way just they standard studs

2 of them 6.83 in long, no CF, no Gold, no tituiam. I dont ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh mad ash hell


blowup.gif blowup.gif blowup.gif blowup.gif blowup.gif blowup.gif




[attachment=61:attachment]

lmao.gif

That had to be a typo. More like $6.40 Or maybe it's in Won.

Call them to verify.

yes sir, drillsergeant.gif but what if it is not a typo

Have you checked arounfd Korea? I am sure there must be some company making a stong stud for high HP.

Great news!

Just talked to ARP. Yes, it will cost you $640U.S. to get those two 12mm studs right now.
However, if we can get 10+ people to get these, then the prices will go to "normal".

I also asked him about a longer stud that is close and has normal pricing. He said there is one that is only 3/8" longer. Part #AU7.250-1LB. It's $10.85ea for regular customers.

lol, thats rediculous.

Anyone have a head lying in front of them? lol

I'm gonna go home tonight and see if there is 3/8" more room above the bolts to allow for the longer stud.


BTW, he remembered you Mad_John from Korea. lmao.gif

More good news everyone!

I measured the stock 2 longer bolts, and it's actually 6 3/8" long. AND, there is nothing on top of those two bolts inside the valve cover. Which means, we can go with a "standard" size slightly longer than those. Ex. 6.5", 6.75", 7.00", up to 7.25". So have a smoke everyone, a cheap kit is on the way! 439.gif

So how much we lookin at?

Ok, back to my first good news. lol

They don't have anything between 6.25" and 7.25". So we're again stuck getting the 7.25" which will be almost 1" longer than stock. I've checked and re-checked my head for clearance of an extra inch and it seems perfectly fine.

The bolt costs $10.85 from ARP, but like I said at the top, you can get it at a local store for much less.


So until they stock our stock size bolt, the "official" bolt to use is Part #AU7.250-1LB

the thing is they don't do that here, they use the stock bolts.. but what is the total package for the top and bottom end

nuts and wash studs

i want to to my shit right but 640 is too much and if the other stud will word and is only 3/8 longer shit i will go with that then..

jon_GTR

set it up a group buy for the whole set of head and mains studs

since you know them better then me
lets get this thing going

It doesn't have to be a group buy to get them. You can get them directly from ARP, or get your local ARP rep to get them and get a better price.

I really don't think there will be 10+ people buying these at the same time, even though it's only like $100 or less for them. But if you guys want to post one, then go for it. I need my stuff NOW, so I can't wait for it.

Updated and verified. fing02.gif

The studs are installed and the two longer bolts are good to go. They are an inch longer, but there's plenty of room on top. Just use 2-3 washers on top so that the bolt doesn't slide to the bottom of the threads.
<span style="color:red">Problem</span> - Since the stock bolts use allen wrenches, they are thin enough to fit inbetween the tight spaces of the head. But when using the 12mm socket, it needs to wrap around the bolt, therefore is MUCH wider than an allen wrench and requires more room. There wasn't enough. There was some extra material blocking access, left over from the casting. So I took a drill and a grinding bit and took away some material in 4 of the exhaust side holes to allow the socket to get through to the bolts. It took only 5 minutes to do, but an hour to figure out WHAT to do. mad.gif Now that you know, you should sail right through it.

maybe im stupid but i dont know if ARP rod bolts are listed or not, but if they are can you point them out to me..

Nope, you would need to measure the stock ones and find a match. I'm sure they have one, just not on file for us.
Aftermarket rods come with arp studs.

I personally would be very interested in a GB for the whole setup. Anyone else? smile.gif

The studs
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...up/Image59.jpg

The 2 larger studs on the left, and the other smaller ones on the right.
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...up/Image54.jpg


Here is a pick of the larger/longer stud with the head on. You can barely make out that the threading on it ends before it hits the top of the head. This is why you need to buy a couple washers to fill that gap so you can torque the bolt down.
You can also see how, even though it's 1" longer than you need it, it barely reaches above the hieght of the cam and doesn't interfere with anything.
https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v...up/Image61.jpg

Great post JONGTR and thanks for the pics. This post will defienlty help all the guys who are plannig on boosting/big nitrous and motor builds.

Just for everyones info I am using OEM Bolts and @ 16 psi of boost i noticed that my head has lifted at some point a very very very small amount not a big deal but I am going to have the bolts tq'ed again.

Can this get stickied for the Turbo builders?

definately...DONE.

JONGTR

What did you TQ the studs at?

The 10mm Can support 60ftb while the 12mm can suport 80ftb. TQing them at different ftb levels is not the best thing to do obviously.

Just cleaning up the part info and getting it together in one last post. Part #'s are in the parenthesis.


<u>If you want a head set, you'll need:</u>

"AM 4.500-1LB" Qty 8 (M10x1.25 studs)
"200-8519" Qty 8 (10mmID, .750"OD black washer)
"300-8343" Qty 8 (10mm x 1.25 12pt nut)
"AU7.250-1LB" Qty 2 (M12 x 1.25 studs) + nuts/washers
^^^Note: These last 2 studs are the 2 special ones that are 7.25" long. Be sure to get the nuts and several washers to offset the added length. I don't know the part #'s for the nuts/washers, but the salesman will/should.




<u>If you want a Main Cap set, you'll need:</u>

"AM 3.800-1LB" Qty 10 (M10x1.25 studs)
"200-8519" Qty 10 (10mmID, .750"OD black washer)
"300-8343" Qty 10 (10mm x 1.25 12pt nut)

how about adding your TQ #'s and if it was with Oil or Moly

on a side note i have a few rod bolts for the stock rods left

Can anybody confirm the intake cam journal bolt sizes? I believe there is 11 of them, what is the actual measurements of the bolt.

The cam journal bolts aren't what strip. They're pretty tough. It's the soft aluminum head. I've had two holes strip from taking the cams out so many times.

If you want to know, then take one out. Takes 5 minutes. I've even run the motor with one missing. lmao.gif

I would just go with some stockers from the dealer.

Does anyone know a website where we can buy these all from?

http://www.atomicspeedware.com/arphuyndai.htm


jongtr made the list and i had nick make it happen for us
he is cool as hell

Is that for everything for the head, no rod bolts, Denis is getting me the hookup on those.

Talking ARP studs, anyone knows the part # for ARP wheel studs?

larry,
i could dig it up for ya
need longuer ones?