Ye, thats one of the reasons I took pictures. They say that they triple check clearances, which is why it was rather odd that the main fitment issue I had with the piping hitting the fan was odd.

Having an up to date install guide would have helped. I was told that the install would be the same except for the Unichip as the Beta II, which is why when I ran into problems like with say, having to cut the webbing for the fans, I was confused and tried to work around it instead of it saying I had to cut the webbing in order for it to fit.

I'm pretty sure that stupid lil 5th injector isn't firing at the moment, and since its Christmas time I really can't talk to John about it. I'll probably recheck my wiring tomorrow.

If I give it a solid amount of throttle (50-60%, I haven't went full on it yet) it'll studder like a rev limiter, at which point I'll let off. I haven't thrown any misfire codes, probably cause I'm very careful with it. Its fine around town and making 1-2psi, other than that, its quite moody. As its fine around town, I can't see it being because I screwed up the wiring on the MAF/CPS/whatever. If I had screwed that up, it would suck below 3000rpm as well I would think. The inside around the TB near the injector is bone dry, and I'd expect a little bit of fuel resiudue there.

Anyone know what the vacuum line to the Unichip module does? My dad insists thats causing my problem, and when he asks what it does I have no idea.

 

umm, im pretty sure the vacuum line is how the unichip senses boost, unless there is an external map sensor the unichip uses, im not familiar with the unichip

Im assuming the 5th injector is the only way the unichip alters the fuelling so if that vacuum line is how the unichip reads boost, and you unhook it, it will allow the stock ecu to fuel unassisted, and if your wastegate is set to 5pounds or less id say go ahead and run it without the 5th injector. This way you can see if its turbo related or unichip related

My hunch is that the unichip is dumping WAYYYYYY too much fuel through the 5th injector and your running into a wall like i did with that damn 12:1 FMU.

 

The vacuum line should go to your intake manifold, it's so the unichip can detect boost with it's built in map sensor so it can fire the 5th injector according to boost, you should make sure you hook it before boosting so you don't go lean. The stutter is the problem I had with the Alpine kit as well, you will get that when your car goes from vacuum to boost since it takes a second for the 5th injector to react to the boost and for the fuel to make it through the intake, I moved the 5th injector to the other side of the throttle body with an adapter I made and now control it with the emanage and now it's runs fine with no sputter at all.

 

Ye I was pretty sure that was how it senses boost. Sucks I installed during Xmas as their off on holidays I'd assume.

Internal wastegate is set to 8 pounds.

 

Why does the unichip take a second to kick in the extra fuel? SMT is spot on with no delay in the extra fuel, granted my dual rail sprays right on the intake ports vs the TBI but it shouldnt make a second or two delay...

But if it did take a second to start spraying fuel it shouldnt make the car sputter from lack of fuel at 2psi, as you can run 5 on stock fuel and even spike to 10 without the car sputtering, knocks another story but i never had it sputter from being lean...

Itll sputter from too much fuel, knock from not enough.

 

I plugged the line and disconnected the injector and it did the same thing. The vacuum line for the Unichip is hella long, so it might have some delay. Its probably ten feet long lol.

I'm pretty sure its the injector not firing now, unless its something that causes a problem before an injector can cause a problem. It feels like a rev limiter, cept its more harsh. I'm running without boost or a wideband gauges atm which is kind of a hindrance. I'll pull the plugs tomorrow and take a peek, although I'm 85% sure that the injector isn't firing. The fuel gets to the injector fine, I don't know if I wired it correctly. Its kind of a wierd way to wire an injector.

You run a red/yellow wire from the Unichip to the injector. The wire goes through a clip, then gets wired into the common 12v power wire for the 4 main injectors. When you push the clip in two prongs in the clip go through the insulation and touch the wire. I just removed a bit of insulation from the wire around those prongs so that maybe it wasn't touching the wire cleanly.

The only other install problems I had was that I have an extra red wire unused on the Unichip harness. I extended the MAF sensor with acid core solder instead of rosin, but that shouldn't cause this issue I don't think. The car drives fine low throttle, I can take it to 6000rpm if I want, it just has to be at 25% throttle. If the MAF was fux0red I would think it would drive horrendous low end too.

 

wire taps blow, cut then solder that bitsh, you may have interrupted the connection in your power line too, which is why they blow.

Idk if you know how to do this but its the best way to tap into a wire, cut only the insulation off a section of the wire. Its something you should practise on a piece of scrap wire. Use a blade to slice just the insulation all the way around the wire in 2x places about 1-2mm apart, then connect the two scliced areas with a slit and peel the segment of insulation off, youll end up with a perfectly exposed piece of wire without fuxoring the length

itll look like this...

=====--========

the single dash being exposed metal


cut and splice the wire to be tapped in and wrap around the exposed area, then solder and electrical tape. should end up real clean and solid, and you never have to worry about the main line being interrupteed. should look like this when done

ll
ll
ll
ll======
ll
ll
ll
ll

The red being electrical tape over solder

 

i didn't think you could pull it off with the alpine kit due to some of the bugs and leaks it takes to secure, but hey looks incredible!!!!

i see you used the same copper gasket sealant as i used for my valve cover. it's the best, and heat resistant! great job.

have fun with it and don't abuse it!! alpine turbos look almost like factory. it would be nice for them to merge.

 

^^^There is always giong to be a delay in fuel response that is why the injectors are placed as close to the intake port as possible, the unichip won't fire the 5th injector untill 2.5psi is reached and when you go from vacuum to boost or vaccum to no vacuum for na cars the air tends to slow down and there is a slight stall in the air velocity for a breif second at that given time the fuel puddles and won't atomize, the 5th injector is kinda working as an old carburator works where the fuel has to travel through the entire intake before reaching the combustion chamber. Carburators had something called a primary booster that would pump fuel into the intake bypassing the fuel jets as the throttle was pressed otherwise you would get a dead spot in your throttle response, the 5th injector has no booster so when it first fires the fuel will puddle cuasing lean spot followed by a very rich spot, if you run the car on the dyno you will see the a/f ratio and know what I'm talking about, many turbo cars I have seen use a simular set up as alpine and they have the same problems, when you have the extra injectors close to the intake ports it the heat alone atomizes the fuel and it is not a problem.

In my car I run 360cc injectors and the 5th injector using the emange to control them, I am able to run off the 360cc injectors till about 5 psi and than I begin to add extra fuel with the 5th injector from there and since the air is at full velocity I get no problems with the fuel puddling in the intake.

 

Ye I soldered everything.

I'm going to play around with the wiring a little later on tomorrow and see if I can get that silly little injector to fire.