Hey guys,

I am only a beginnner in the world of turbo, but i am trying to learn. Seeing 220hp at the wheels on Jon's Alpine Turbo Tib made me think twice about which way i will make my tiburon a rocket. I bet you've gotten this question a millions times, but how much is the turbo setup after all is said and done, because it seems that there is much more to turbocharging than just the kit itself. I appreciate all the help i can get! thanks a lot.

GO Here to See my Tibby

 

Jon got 220 WHP because he has a MAP based ECU.

On your MAF based ECU, expect between 175 and 200 WHP. The Unichip programming does not quite lend itself to MAF based ECU's.

There are a host of possible upgrades that you could do to the kit.
Upgrade the turbo itself
Raise the boost/pressure
Add a larger/more efficent intercooler
Lower the compression via pistons rather than a head spacer
etc..etc..

What is your HP goal? How much do you have to spend on it?

Your stock clutch isn't going to last too long, so you should consider replacing that before you mess with the kits power output.

 

thanks Random,

I was planning on spending somewhere in the 3000-4000 dollar range. One main concern i have...I know my warranty will be voided with a turbo, but how reliable will my car be as an everyday driver?

thanks

 

Alpine is gonna have a warranty. Check their forum.

 

Alpine offers a one year unlimited mile warranty on their kit. As long as you don't mess with it. Make it run 30 PSI, or replace parts, and expect to have warranty issues! tongue.gif

The Alpine Turbo's been on my car for about 40,000 miles now. Yeah, it get's CEL lights, and misfires unless I feed it premium gas, but other than that, nothing has broken, and it's still running with no mechanical problems.

I would suggest you get the kit, install it/have it installed, and replace the clutch while you are at it. Then drive the car for 3-6 months or so. Then decide if you want to start messing with it.

 

Random, what are your current Dyno figures again?

I just bet you are chompin at the bit to get that thing where Jon has his, aren't you?

I love watching all this develop, I hate you guyz having to be guineapigs, but I will have a great place for help when I get mine after they are fine tuned.

 

Random:

What kinds of CEL codes is the ECU throwing?

Are you still running stock compression ratio, or have you replaced pistons to lower CR?

...

For daily drivability and reliability, the number one factor is always how you drive. If you can't resist the temptation of boost, and are constantly launching hard at the traffic lights, maning hard stops at the red lights, and tossing the car around the corners at the highest speed that it'll take, then the car will not last. I'm not saying that you have to drive like Grandma all the time, but you can't drive it like a race car all the time, either. Maintenance is also important. Regular maintenance, and taking care of things BEFORE they break will extend the life of your car signifigantly. Once you add stress to the engine (IE: forced aspiration) it becomes even more important. The more power that you draw for that block, the more critical that it becomes.

 

The car is running stock pistions, but lower compression via a head gasket spacer.

The CEL's are down to 1128 and P0506 (going from memory).

the P1128 is "Fuel Trim Multiplicative, System Too Lean". The car isn't running lean, so I can't figure out when/where this one is coming in.

P0506 is "Idle RPM Lower than Expected"
If the ISC actuator cannot cause the engine to match the ECM's target engine speed within a certain range during two back-to-back trips, this code will be set and the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) will be turned on.

This code will be triggered if the following conditions are met:
ISC actuator does not adjust the engine RPM to match the target engine speed to within 100 RPM less than the target engine speed for 15 seconds
Engine idling
Vehicle speed is zero
Engine coolant temperature is above 176°F (80°C)

The problem is, I usually idle at 1000-1100, so if anything, it should be recording engine idle too high, not engine idle too low.

HP 180
Torque 197.8 ft. lbs

 

Sorry for not putting any input into this i was not ignoring the post ive just been away for a week. It looks like everything has been answered now anyway and hopefully in the future Randoms work will meen that there will be a good programme in the unichip so that you will get more like the power you should be. As for the reliability of the kit Civ Killer I have had zero problems with the kit appart from the original programme, the car seam to handle every thing without any hastles(and im not exactly gentle on the car) and the turbo setup itself has had no problems at all so far.

 

thanks a lot guys, lot sof usefull info!

later