alice6's build
#1
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
alice6's build
I've been gathering parts for a while. Now that the major stuff has all come in I guess it's a good time to start a thread!
Breif specs:
Wiseco 11cc dished pistons 82.5mm bore
PAR Engineering rods
.010 under crank
GT2871RLE turbo
.48AR turbine housing
Tial 38mm wastegate
AEM fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255
1.8 intake ccam
AEM FIC
440 green top injectors
I'll be adding pictures soon
Currently at 194320 miles
Breif specs:
Wiseco 11cc dished pistons 82.5mm bore
PAR Engineering rods
.010 under crank
GT2871RLE turbo
.48AR turbine housing
Tial 38mm wastegate
AEM fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255
1.8 intake ccam
AEM FIC
440 green top injectors
I'll be adding pictures soon
Currently at 194320 miles
#3
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
The ones from Australia, yep. The rods appear pretty stout and measured to spec. They're forged chromoly steel with ARP 2000 bolts. Apparently PAR has had some employment changes so getting the rods took a while, but not nearly as long as it took to get the pistons. 6 weeks! agh!
PAR.jpg
wiseco.jpg
20140801_1448471.jpg
The turbo isn't shown there because it's still in the box. The housing was coated with VHT flameproof ceramic paint. I already had a set of new stock head bolts so I will be using those for now.
PAR.jpg
wiseco.jpg
20140801_1448471.jpg
The turbo isn't shown there because it's still in the box. The housing was coated with VHT flameproof ceramic paint. I already had a set of new stock head bolts so I will be using those for now.
#5
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Location: Petawawa, Ontario
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Vehicle: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon i4
Yes there have been some changes made at PAR, a friend of mine has a custom transmission built by them and hes been without it functioning for the last 5 years, there has always been a problem with 2nd gear until the recent employment changes.
Best of luck with your project.
Best of luck with your project.
#6
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Vehicle: 2003 Hyundai Tiburon i4
#7
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IMO, there's no reason to go with ARP head studs unless you plan to go over 450-500whp. I boosted around 300whp for years on stock compression and bolts. Don't waste the money and spend it elsewhere.
Where did you purchase the pistons? They should have been off the shelf items from multiple sources.
Where did you purchase the pistons? They should have been off the shelf items from multiple sources.
#8
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
I got them from No Limit Motorsports, I assumed they would be an off the shelf item as well. They let me know right after my order that it would be delayed 2 weeks, but when the two weeks were up they said it would be another 3 weeks before it ships. Needless to say, I won't be ordering from them again without confirming their stock. Glad I wasn't in a hurry...
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Vehicle: 2000 Hyundai Tiburon
I've been putting a lot of work into this build lately. The motor is actually in the car but I have lots to do before I fire her up. I am going to be using an IAT from a Jeep, so I need to build a circuit that will scale the sensor curve to match the oem sensor. I finished the downpipe and wastegate dump - it's all kinda built into one piece. I think it turned out rather well, it was quite a squeeze to fit a 3" in there, but the bends are still pretty smooth. I'm getting plenty of welding practice, that's for sure!
20140815_174657_sm.jpg
20140819_223752_sm.jpg
20140819_223948_sm.jpg
also something I wanted to mention, I did this a while back but in case anybody runs into the same issue I did I'll explain it here. While tuning, I had issues with the map signal being really eratic, fluctuating a lot whenever it was under boost. I tried moving the signal line to various locations, that did nothing noticable. I ended up taking a set screw and drilling an itty bitty hole in it - I used micro bits, I can't remember the exact size but it was small - and screwed the set screw right into the vacuum line. Voila! smooth signal
20140815_174657_sm.jpg
20140819_223752_sm.jpg
20140819_223948_sm.jpg
also something I wanted to mention, I did this a while back but in case anybody runs into the same issue I did I'll explain it here. While tuning, I had issues with the map signal being really eratic, fluctuating a lot whenever it was under boost. I tried moving the signal line to various locations, that did nothing noticable. I ended up taking a set screw and drilling an itty bitty hole in it - I used micro bits, I can't remember the exact size but it was small - and screwed the set screw right into the vacuum line. Voila! smooth signal