Turbo & Supercharge (Forced Induction) Posts regarding Turbochargers, Superchargers and any other method for Forced Induction.

1st Stage Of Turbo - Nearly Completed

Old Jul 1, 2005 | 09:59 AM
  #1  
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Ok guys and girls I've been collecting parts for my turbo setup for a couple years now and I think i just about have everything. A run or two to ace hardware might need to be made but other than that I think I'm done.

parts obtained:

garrett t3 super 60 turbo
speed-factor mani and dp
speed-factor oil feed/return lines
fmic with the crap beat out of it (temporary)
1g dsm bov
greddy turbo timer
crap load of hoses/t clamps
slim fans
vortech fmu
prd plug wires
faze boost gauge
faze oil pressure gauge

parts in the mail:

safc II
1g bov flange and gasket
few 180's and a 90 of 2.5 inch mild steel - custom pipes!
gsx fuel pump

ok my question to you all is whats missing?

1. I'm thinking I need to pick up a set of plugs but I'm not sure about the one/two step colder thing.

2. What gaskets do I need, where to get them? I'm thinking I need a turbo->dp gasket and a manifold gasket(do i need to replace the metal one from my headers?).

3. And lastly what should I do on fuel. Should I use both the fmu and the safc? I'm only planning on running 5 for a while for break in and then bumping it up to like 8. Maybe on occasion 12 or so if I go to the track but I'm hoping to have re's new ecu/injectors by then.

Thanks in advance!!! fing02.gif

btw
1st stage is - get all the freaking parts
2nd stage is - install all the parts I can without going turbo (pump, safc, fans, etc.) and get the charge pipes built
3rd stage - pssshhhhhht
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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Looks like you've gotten most of the parts... now for your questions.

1. I would start with 1 range colder, and work from there. If the plugs deteriorates too rapidly, or leads to pre-ignition, then go down another range colder. If the plugs you have get dirty real fast, go back up one. Its a guessing game to find the right range, but 1 or 2 ranges colder is where you will probably end up.

2. You will need a few gaskets, best way to do that is make your own with some material sheets (copper for instance). Or try and get just the gaskets from Tim.

3. Basically use the FMU to bump up fuel pressure through the stock injectors until you can get the S-AFC tuned to run along with the FMU.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 10:35 AM
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thanks ham, good info.

oh here's another dumb question. where do i hook up the vacuum on the manifold for the fmu and bov?

when will i need to replace my fpr?
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:25 AM
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Some of the Vortech FMU's are designed to be used not only as a FMU but also in place of the FPR. Which one did you get? The biggest problem with our stock FPR is that the return line is very small up to where it attaches to the firewall. So as long as you are using most of the fuel (so it isnt being returned) you should be fine for a little while. For 5PSI you would probably be fine with just the FMU. But if you have both it would be silly not to use the SAFC with a new FPR rather than using a handicap (ie, FMU).
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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if you want one step colder than stock plugs
go to a nissan dealership ask for part number
22401-50y06
list is 1.92

thats for ngk vpowers (bkr6e-11)

if you want to steps colder
call summit ask them to cross reference for ngk part number
bkr7e-11
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:35 AM
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Got any pics of the downpipe and manifold? I'd be worried about the quality of it.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:45 AM
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QUOTE (Supercow @ Jul 1 2005, 12:35 PM)
thanks ham, good info.

oh here's another dumb question. where do i hook up the vacuum on the manifold for the fmu and bov?

when will i need to replace my fpr?
`

Well, anywhere, really. I tee'ed mine where at the nipple that's used for the vent selection, in the console. That's the nipple that's nearest of the passenger fender.

You WILL have problems tuning your setup with an SAFC. It's possible to get it about right on the dyno, then you'll find out 2 weeks later that you're running very lean. After some time, you just CAN'T get it rich, even if you put +50% all the way. That sucks.

There's some "tricks" you can do to make it run decent, but I don't feel it's worth it. If you're not convinced, run a search on turbo and safc here and on the old HA.COM forums.

Then hopefully buy something more adapted to a nice turbo setup smile.gif
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:48 AM
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if you want a smt-6 for cheap lemme know before the end of the day man im holdin dibs on one
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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Get he SAFC working, even though it WILL suck nuts, then save your money afterwards. The PRS2 is $650 and we're working on a DIY for it. Well, someone is and he'll get full credit.
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Old Jul 1, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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QUOTE (REDZMAN @ Jul 1 2005, 12:35 PM)
Got any pics of the downpipe and manifold? I'd be worried about the quality of it.


na, but i bought em off of deestibo, he might have some, i can get some pics though.

the dp is a little rough though, I'm gonna have to work on it, deestibo did a rush modification on it and well... it leaves a little to be desired. smile.gif

edit: pm sent on the smt6 faith and thanks on the plug info.. there's a nissan dealer down the street tongue.gif

on the fmu ultra here's where i bought it: http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?s...988&hl=vortech
unfortunently 2uniq's picture of it is down but it's the one that comes in tims kits.


so what if i got the smt6? would i still need the fmu? what do you think would be better, re's ecu or the smt6? Should I just use the fmu, resell the safc, and wait on the ecu?

dang sorry for so many qestions but I've gotta tie up all these loose ends.. smile.gif
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