1997tibby

Ok, i have a 1.8l block in my shed i was building up, i'm curious, can i order 2.0 pistons (wiesco 8.5:1), and 2.0 pauter titanium rods, and put them in an orginal 1.8 block? or should i just go pick up a 2.0 block and swap in the 1.8 crank? this topic comes the closest to my question so i figured i'd jump in and add an additional question. OH and also i've looked long and hard, and i CANNOT find anywhere aftermarket springs, retainers for this motor i saw the ferrea valves once or twice somewhere but nothing else for the head can someone PLEASE help?

dsrtibb

I have crower rods, Ross pistons and all of the Ferra valve train. I will try to post the part #’s tomorrow

Hyundai4g63T

Ok you can use the pistons as they are all the same between the 2.0 and 1.8, I have Wiseco Part# K585M825 which is .20 over, the Rods if you have a 1.8 bottom end for the Pauter's are Part# HYN-200-480-1410F if you have the 2.0 bottom end you will need part# HYN-200-480-1461F. So if you already have a 1.8 block and crank just order the correct rods from pauter.

As for the valve train I don't have the part numbers for anything as I'm still on bone stock head but that will change soon enough.

And to let you know I made 407whp/334 ft lbs on a bone stock 1.8l motor with only Tigerlilly pistons, everything else was bone stock.

dsrtibb

Here is a site for the valve train parts

1997tibby

Thanks for the help and info, but i guess what i'm really asking is, would it be better to build up a 1.8l or a 2.0l engine? I was alwas told that when it comes to turboing every tenth of a liter matters, i have a 1.8 engine with 140,000 miles on it and the valve seals need to be replaced cause there leaking oil badly, but i can pick up a 2.0 for $200 bucks. So what should i do....

Hyundai4g63T

I just destroyed my 1.8 and I stuck with the 1.8 as it has less side load on the pistons and can be made to rev alot higher.

dsrtibb

I will say this do what you can afford! You will spend a lot of money to do this build the right way.

tdonnell

Wow, it's been a long time since I first posted this...

Anyway, I suppose I have a few questions,

I have a 1.8 engine sitting in my basement from my old tiburon, I also have wiseco 8.8:1 pistons for my 2.0. I would like to get some pauter rods, but would also like to rev it to 8k. Could I use the 2.0L rods and the forged pistons with the 1.8L crank? I would like pauter rods just to make sure, which ones should I get if I want to use the 1.8L crank?

How high could I rev with my 268 degree cams @9.2mm lift with stock valve springs before floating? I know I will need springs if I want to get to 8k.

What would be the max safe rpm with a full 2.0 vs. a 1.8L crank in a 2.0 block?

Or should I just put the 2.0L wiseco's in the 1.8 block and use the crank as well.

I was thinking if I did the wiseco's with the 1.8L crank the compression would be waay too low right?

Thanks for any help, sorry for so many q's.

dsrtibb

I had the 268/9.2 cams and I was getting valve float while spraying between shifts and I took it to 6200rpm or so as for the crank I'm not sure I am using to 2.0 crank. I can tell you this much w/out boring the cylinder you will have more flow with the 2.0l vs. the 1.8l which is a good thing when you decide to use a big turbo. About the compression how much boost are you planning on running and are you going to spray on top of that. Having lower compression is better in some cases but not in all. If you want an 8k rev you will need to replace all of the valve train

tdonnell

Looking to run 20-25 psi, a good bit of boost, if I am going to build the engine right I am going to take full advantage of it. I will be purchasing a standalone soon not only for the future turbo setup but to get a good gain on my current NA setup.

I don't get valve float at all and I take it to redline all the time (I don't hit it but I get close, 6750rpm).

I suppose float would cause a loss in power, and she just keeps on pulling so it can't be floating, maybe your springs were worn out??

Thanks for the tips, I will likely just stick with the 2.0L platform all around, just need to find an engine with low miles to build.