Loneshark

so today, i took the tib in to have the front left hub bearing replaced (for the second time in 3 months) at a local tire shop,

they did the job, and as soon as i drove it off the lot, i could hear the diff grinding away.... so i take it back, they check it out, and the hub still has play in it... turns out the axle was not seating in the spindle assembly properly, there was damage from the first time the stealership replaced the bearing 3 months ago... somehow they mushroomed the inner spindle hub, that the axles slides into, which prevented the axle from going all the way into the spindle.... which somehow affected the differential, and led to its premature failure...





he was able to grind away the mushroomed part of the spindle and seat the axle properly and tighten the nut to the point where there is no play in the hub bearing and spindle assembly, and the wheel still spins normally (not too tight)...





but it still caused metal grindings from the diff, to contaminate the whole trans, as we checked the fluid to find metal in it... i new this was coming, i knew there was something wrong with the diff, the minute i left the stealership 3 months ago... (when i brought the car back to the dealership a week after they did the work, to have them look at it, they told me it sounded like the input shaft of the trans and handed me a 2100 dollar quote for a new trans and sent me out the door. f*ck priority hyundai service department in Norfolk.)





so with all that said, its time to install the new trans, an 06 elantra trans (M5BF2)





kspec replies when they want to, and they seem to NOT want to give me a competitive price on an XTRM pressure plate, so im looking at clutchmasters.





anyone have any experience with clutch masters?









05087-HD00

05087-HDKV

05087-HDTZ

05087-HDC4 (4 puck)

05087-HDC6 (6 puck)



http://clutchmasters.com/shop/?page=shop/browse&MakeModelID=115&MakeID=16&Engine=2.0L&FromYear=1999&ToYear=2006&ps_session=3a55e484e42d17790d41d73f9ff09ca0

turbosocks

i had a stage IV clutchmasters in my turbo tib. It grenaded though.. Not sure what the cause was. Obviously my clutch was very grippy but it worked well when it worked.. I don't know if the clutch was at fault when it grenaded.

Loneshark

werd... its a tossup between the ACT and the Clutch Masters, did you boost on your CM all of its life?

turbosocks

I would go ACT hands down. I loved my ACT in the Tiburon (which I swapped to after Clutch Masters)



South Bend is a very good option also.



SouthBend FTW!

wheel_of_steel

Sorry to not properly contribute here, but that is a truly shitty chain of events mang.



My mate has an extreme clutch disc and pressure plate in his LC, it's a 4 puck solid center jobbie with some solid clamping force. He's done quite a few miles on it, it seems to be going strong after a guesstimated 8ish thousand miles. He did blow out a slave cylinder shortly after installing this clutch - coincidence? Manufacturing defect? Chatter death maybe?



I've put about 10k miles on my 6 puck, sprung center 'eclutchmaster' eBay special. It seems to be a reasonably aggressive disc that is lightly sprung. It does a good job of clutching and took a lot of abuse.



Those are both LC accents though, so I'd take those individual customer experiences with a pinch of salt.

faithofadragon

whatever you do dont rock a solid hub clutch, could be hearsay but a few folks here have blown up a few transmissions with em



i had a ACT clutch for a while, it was pretty good IMO

Loneshark

agreed, no solid hub. ive seen some with polybushings for springs in other hubs. but i'd rely on springs, poly gets soft after a while.



hey wheelz, thanks... do you like the 6 puck? is it smooth coming out of first?



im thinking about getting the stage 3 clutch master.?

wheel_of_steel

I forget what 'stage' this clutch is; it doesn't really matter. What I have instead, is a graph and some wear photos.







The first 1/3rd to 1/2 of the pedal's travel is light, linear and just as easy to use as the stock clutch, if not lighter. This is what you use in carparks and when you drive your mom to the shops. Once you let it out more than that, or apply lots of power and try to slip the clutch, it will shudder/chatter. You can drive this car smoothly from day to day without worry.



Here are some wear photos after 8 thousand miles of driving. That includes being heavily slipped due to a broken slave cylinder, multiple drag strip visits, and burnouts.



























It cost me $150

Loneshark

uhhh... nice chart !! lol. thanks for the input. well i had the 4 puck XTRM Valeo piece of sh*t. it only lasted 20k miles until the flywheel glazed over, the pressure plate had major heat stress cracks. i went on a spree at the drag strip for about 5 months, almost every weekend, sometimes fri. and sat. but mostly sat. that valeo might have been good, on grip, but it couldnt handle being slipped, it generated too much heat. probably would have been nice at autocrossing....



so i think i got my hands on a clutch masters stage 3 for 485 shipped in 2 days too.... its the TZ version with the segmented kevlar disc, its almost like a puck disc but its full circle so maybe it will dissipate the chatter.... we shall see.



weird coincidence tho... the car dies during my college break... almost a "good" time for it to break down actually.

tdonnell

Hello! I'm an old member from RDTiburon and don't post here much or that often, but I can give you some experiences I've had with ClutchMasters...



I've had both a Stage 1 CM and Stage 4 (6 puck sprung hub) CM clutch in the car. Currently I still have the Stage 4 (mated to a Fidanza flywheel) and it's been through absolute hell. I've made about 40 passes at the track (doing 2nd gear burnouts in the pit with drag radials), side-stepped the clutch in 2nd more times than I'd like to admit and generally beat the hell out of the car whenever I drive it (it's what I built it for so why not!?). It's held up admirably but I'm not sure how long it has left. I overheated it a few times at the strip last time I was there. Car spins through third gear in the winter months and the clutch holds every bit of the power. I recently installed a Quaife differential as I blew up 4 transmissions due to diff failure in the past (definitely the weak link). Putting down 325 whp and 315 tq. Ran 12.0 @ 121 mph just to give you an idea of the power level etc. I'll probably have to convert to a push-type clutch if I have to replace the Stage 4 CM as pull-types can only hold so much.



You'll be happy with the clutch without a doubt.



Best of luck!