My First Drag Race!
10-30-2008, 08:38 AM
#31
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stilll LOL ^^^^ lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif
its not even worth posting or even doing the race..
to race a 6000lb SUV is just silly..
and at DTN.. lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif to even suggest such a way to race.. rofl.. these people are racing N/A TIBURONS, not drag cars, not 600hp civics..
yeah.. lose .1 off your time to ruin your car.. and look like a complete moron doing it... only from you, can we expect something this (insert your own word here)
its not even worth posting or even doing the race..
to race a 6000lb SUV is just silly..
and at DTN.. lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif lmao.gif to even suggest such a way to race.. rofl.. these people are racing N/A TIBURONS, not drag cars, not 600hp civics..
yeah.. lose .1 off your time to ruin your car.. and look like a complete moron doing it... only from you, can we expect something this (insert your own word here)
10-30-2008, 09:00 AM
#32
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I raced like DTN said and now I need a new clutch sad.gif lol.
Yeah I did about 20 hard passes on the stock clutch and now it doesnt catch too well anymore but at least it still catches.
Where can I find a really good clutch for a good price for a N/A tiburon?
On a side note: I did however, run 15.4 using this destructive method of racing. But now that my clutch slips I can only run 15.8 at best 02.gif
Yeah I did about 20 hard passes on the stock clutch and now it doesnt catch too well anymore but at least it still catches.
Where can I find a really good clutch for a good price for a N/A tiburon?
On a side note: I did however, run 15.4 using this destructive method of racing. But now that my clutch slips I can only run 15.8 at best 02.gif
10-30-2008, 09:08 AM
#33
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Vehicle: 05 Subaru WRX
haha.gif That's exactly why DTN's advice should not be followed unless your car is a track/weekend only car.
And we all wonder why DTN b****es about clutches so much. It's cause he drives like an ass hat on a regular basis. You think he would figure it out at some point, but I guess not. Wow that extra tenth on your 1/4 pass made you car look so much faster DTN.
And we all wonder why DTN b****es about clutches so much. It's cause he drives like an ass hat on a regular basis. You think he would figure it out at some point, but I guess not. Wow that extra tenth on your 1/4 pass made you car look so much faster DTN.
10-30-2008, 09:16 AM
#34
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that is why, under NO circumstance, dont EVER listen to DTN.. lol
good time of 15.4 though.. impressive.. people probably laughed though at the serious drag racing driving though.
don't look for the cheapest clutch (like DTN)
get a 350$ ACT street clutch kit.. i loved my ACT clutch, and no one has any complaints about them as far as i know.
good time of 15.4 though.. impressive.. people probably laughed though at the serious drag racing driving though.
don't look for the cheapest clutch (like DTN)
get a 350$ ACT street clutch kit.. i loved my ACT clutch, and no one has any complaints about them as far as i know.
10-30-2008, 03:06 PM
#35
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^^ Or go with any type of SFI 1.5 cutch (drag racing certified) from a reputable manufacturer. For drag racing and street use, a ceramic based clutch is best. You always get a fresh surface with a ceramic because the harder you are on the clutch, the more it digs into the flywheel. Organics require deglazing.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CudaJoe @ Oct 30 2008, 11:00 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I raced like DTN said and now I need a new clutch sad.gif lol.
Yeah I did about 20 hard passes on the stock clutch and now it doesnt catch too well anymore but at least it still catches.
Where can I find a really good clutch for a good price for a N/A tiburon?</div>
Don't replace your clutch because it's slipping, deglaze it. The stock clutch is a good clutch, you just have to do maintenance to it to keep it that way.
Your flywheel and pressure plate are most likely just overglazed or case hardened. That's what happens when you heat up a steel surface to near it's melting point. You won't melt the flywheel, but it's surface gets real hot. A little bit of glaze is what keeps the flywheel and pressure plate lasting for a long time. A lot of glaze starts acting like a lubricant and makes it start to slip. Now, you just need to get that slippery part off of flywheel and pressure plate.
Check out this DIY I wrote on how to deglaze your clutch http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...&hl=deglaze
Or, you could wait for a few months and drive it like normal and the grip will come back.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Role Reversal @ Oct 30 2008, 11:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>haha.gif That's exactly why DTN's advice should not be followed unless your car is a track/weekend only car.
And we all wonder why DTN b****es about clutches so much. It's cause he drives like an ass hat on a regular basis. You think he would figure it out at some point, but I guess not. Wow that extra tenth on your 1/4 pass made you car look so much faster DTN.</div>
I need a new clutch because I've been using a stock replacement with nitrous for the last year. Also, I believe I've exceeded the limit on resurfacing the stock flywheel. I tried to replace it but there was a problem durring the installation and my buddy owed me a new flywheel.
And "real drag racing" shaved 1 full second off of my 1/8 mile time.
There is an old drag racing saying "drag races are won and lost inside the bell housing"
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (CudaJoe @ Oct 30 2008, 11:00 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I raced like DTN said and now I need a new clutch sad.gif lol.
Yeah I did about 20 hard passes on the stock clutch and now it doesnt catch too well anymore but at least it still catches.
Where can I find a really good clutch for a good price for a N/A tiburon?</div>
Don't replace your clutch because it's slipping, deglaze it. The stock clutch is a good clutch, you just have to do maintenance to it to keep it that way.
Your flywheel and pressure plate are most likely just overglazed or case hardened. That's what happens when you heat up a steel surface to near it's melting point. You won't melt the flywheel, but it's surface gets real hot. A little bit of glaze is what keeps the flywheel and pressure plate lasting for a long time. A lot of glaze starts acting like a lubricant and makes it start to slip. Now, you just need to get that slippery part off of flywheel and pressure plate.
Check out this DIY I wrote on how to deglaze your clutch http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?showtop...&hl=deglaze
Or, you could wait for a few months and drive it like normal and the grip will come back.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Role Reversal @ Oct 30 2008, 11:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>haha.gif That's exactly why DTN's advice should not be followed unless your car is a track/weekend only car.
And we all wonder why DTN b****es about clutches so much. It's cause he drives like an ass hat on a regular basis. You think he would figure it out at some point, but I guess not. Wow that extra tenth on your 1/4 pass made you car look so much faster DTN.</div>
I need a new clutch because I've been using a stock replacement with nitrous for the last year. Also, I believe I've exceeded the limit on resurfacing the stock flywheel. I tried to replace it but there was a problem durring the installation and my buddy owed me a new flywheel.
And "real drag racing" shaved 1 full second off of my 1/8 mile time.
There is an old drag racing saying "drag races are won and lost inside the bell housing"