Has anyone tried changing the alignment and camber adjustments for auto-x? I was just wondering....



How did it pan out and what changes did you make?

 

I set up at 1.5 degrees negative camber front and rear (need more front) and 5/8" toe out in the front. The toe out makes turn in happen a lot quicker which I love. Feels sort of twitchy on the highway though. I think next time I align it to add camber I will cut it back to about 3/8" toe out in front. The camber helped but it still isn't quite enough, I'm rolling beyond flat on the outside tire under hard cornering.

 

"rolling beyond flat on the inside tire"



What do you mean by that? Wouldn't a lack of static camber be beneficial for the inside tire?

 

When he turn hard the wheel will happen to surpass the negative camber and lean into positive camber vreating understeer, this meaning he is turning so hard that the car is turning on the outside of the tire instead of turning on the meat, or flat. So the best way to get around it, is setup a little more static negative camber!

 

Sorry, I meant outside tire. I will fix my post. The one I roll onto and compresses in a corner. If I always turned one direction I would have positive camber on the inside wheel.



But yeah as TR said, I roll onto the outside tire beyond my current 1.5 degrees. Enough beyond that I'm going to try -2.5 degrees.

 

Oh cool, we're all square. Well, round.



...



Anyhoo, how easy is it to adjust your camber pins mang? Do you go for an alignment each time, or are they adjustable in increments?

 

I have adjustable strut top mounts in the front which makes it easy within a small range. I have to either slot the lower strut mount or use camber bolts to get more than -1.5 degrees though. I'll set it so that -2.5 degrees is at the center of my strut top camber adjustment and then I should be able to adjust anywhere from about -1.5 degrees to -3.5 degrees. The strut tops have marks but they don't really translate to degrees. They do let me make even adjustments side to side though.



I have a camber gauge and a setup for measuring toe accurately so I don't need to take it in for an alignment.

 

I've heard that shimming out the bottom of the strut has the same effect, ie it allows you to set a 'base' level of camber.



What about running some positive caster? It shouldn't be a problem with power steering mang. I'm just paranoid about too much negative camber and the power down hassles that come with it.

 

I think I might modify the strut towers to add caster. Haven't put too much thought into it yet.



I'm not sure what you would shin on the strut bottom to add negative camber. Unless I'm missing something. I know I could slot the holes.

 

I dont think there is anything you can Shim, but i would also mot want to really elongate the holes for the strut, that is alot of strenght there. Also that is like 4 layers of metal there. I have tried drilling through stiff like that before and it sucks, You will break alot of bits, and when one breaks in the hole your f*cked! LOL



I have seen Pillow ball tops to replace stock Strut topers, I will look again, but i think that is the best way to go!



I know you have Ksports, so those come with Pillow Balls, The only thing i can think of, is the Camber adjustable knuckle bolts max those out, that is an addtional 1.5-2 negative, plus the 3.5 negative you can get out of the Pillow balls, i dont see you needing more than 5.5 degrees of negative camber, just an idea!



IF you want to try it, i have a set of Adjustable Camber Bolts for the knuckles!