Stocker

Creating his own intake tubing is against the point. Going for a straight restoration means spending lots of time shopping or else paying full retail to the OEM.

wheel_of_steel

Unfortunately, none of the junkyards in my town stock these any more. There are a reasonable few for wrecking privately, but with that comes the hassle of people not wanting to seperate parts, or having incomplete cars, or living like 40 miles out of the city. Or all three... Anyhoo, I haven't exhausted all of my options yet.



As stocker said, I want this to be a showroom condition, factory car. As much as I would love to get rid of the horribad stock turbo setup, I have an even stronger desire to keep this car from being molested. It is only 115 hp, but it also only weighs 2100 lb, and delivers its power early on. Even in its as-purchased condition, it pulls nicely.

HyundaiKitCoupe

So you would only be doing it for aesthetics? It seems like a lot of effort for such a simple functioning piece--a tube with a couple of holes. I wouldn't call fabricating your own parts molesting, but if that is aesthetically defined then its understandable.



I suppose I grew up watching too much Gearz to appreciate anything under the hood that restrains function.



(These guys are professionals that restore muscle cars and trucks to look 100% stock but perform to their maximum potential).



Good luck!

wheel_of_steel

Pretty much dude, if I was going to modify the intake at all, it would be to accommodate a T25 and small intercooler. I might do this in the future, but for now I'd just like it back to OEM condition. At least it will make a good base



Also, I know the show, it rox my sox. I remember one episode in particular where they had to build a vehicle that could navigate without the passengers being able to see out of the windows. Watching campervans with blacked out windows and rudimentary sonar plough through slaloms was classic.

wheel_of_steel

Okay, I've got exams at the moment, so I've only done a limited amount of work on the scoop, but here's what I have.



-getting the valve clearances right







After stripping the lock nut on the number one cylinder rocker arm, it has been a circus trying to fix the problem. The now-stripped nut then stripped the thread from the adjuster itself, and removing them both stripped out the inside of the rocker arm. Naturally, I tried to source another rocker from the quokka or gumtree, but people weren't prepared to part out their running engines. Fair enough. Wreckers yards don't stock s-coupes any more, not even magnawreck! Hyspares don't stock these sorts of parts, so that leaves the stealership.



After explaining to them what an s-coupe is, then explaining that a G4EK isn't a 4G15, then explaining to them what a rocker arm is, we finally got a new arm and adjuster on order. I came in to pick up the haul today, and they'd ordered a rocker arm for an EXCEL.



...apparently they have re-ordered the correct part, but it has to come from korea and will take three weeks.



-getting the boost gauge to work



The boost gauge is a little row of LEDs under the tacho, and it doesn't work at all. Here is a wiring diagram that I nabbed from webtech, the boost gauge is on the far right.







I wanted to isolate the problem, so here's what I've come up with so far.

__________________________________________________ __________________________

9.5 mv at both cluster pins, regardless of vacuum hose being connected, with boost sensor connected



16.5 mv at both cluster pins with boost sensor disconnected

*occasionally this jumps to 600 mv after wiring harness is disconnected, but I can't replicate this condition consistently



850 ohms between terminals one and three on the boost sensor



16.5 mv at the boost gauge wiring harness connector pins

__________________________________________________ __________________________



The conclusions that I can draw from this data:

-The boost sensor is a variable resistor, adjusting a reference voltage from the ECU

-The boost hose itself is not a problem as far as I can see. I can't confirm this until the engine is running, but I felt no leaks and I got the same readings with the hose disconnected

-There are possibly more pins that power the gauge itself, while the two pins on the wiring diagram just provide data for it to display

-The wiring harness between the sensor and the cluster isn't a problem



I'm not sure whether voltages in MILLIVOLTS is actually a problem, or whether it is meant to be a very low powered operation because we are dealing with teensy LEDs. Something else to consider is this damage on a cluster connector. The two pins that are circled are the pins that are related to the boost sensor, but perhaps this powers the cluster? I'm not sure what to use to repair this section of printed circuit.







I'm pretty stumped on this one, because webtech doesn't supply any diagnostic flowcharts for fixing this problem, the wiring diagram is all there is. Does anybody have any input?



-stopping the demister from running all the time



I've had to disconnect the rear demister, because it is permanently running. I tried swapping the switch with the fog light switch (which is a known good switch), but it hasn't fixed the problem. All I can think of is that there might be a sticky relay somewhere? I can't seem to find a fuse or relay for the demister, but there is a block of un-labelled relays under the steering column which might contain the one that I need. Has anybody else had this problem?



That's all for now. Thanks for reading! It reminds me of an old saying about sh*t, going uphill, and pushing...

Stocker

Scrape the green coating from the flex circuit very gently with a sharp knife, and use as low a temperature as you can and as short a contact time as you can, to tin the exposed copper. You could use almost anything but I would probably tack a little bit of stripped wire to bridge the gap. Tin the little bit of wire with lots of extra solder and dab it in place with the soldering iron on the wire, not on the flex circuit.



Or you could try conductive paint but I haven't tried it and would hate to be my own guinea pig on something that requires taking the car apart to re-fix.

wheel_of_steel

I'm an idiot. I did pretty much exactly what you said, but I've only got a ghetto 80w walmart special soldering iron. Dexterity problems aside, I burnt a mini hole in the circuit. THANKFULLY the hole is just inline with the already damaged circuit, but I certainly won't blunder in there with the iron again. I might give the conductive paste a try, as it doesn't involve setting fire to things.



I have to be honest and say that I'm ginger about using this paint/paste on a flexible medium. Oh well, it can't be worse than how it is at the moment

wheel_of_steel

Tom used thread neglect! It was super effective!



Well, the rocker arm finally came in from korea today, and it is the correct part, believe it or not





So the rocker shafts are back in the head now, I just ran out of daylight before I could set the valve clearances. In other news, the gauge cluster will be going back in the car tomorrow. After a small solder disaster, I decided to give that demister repair paste a go.





It is quite easy to work with, but the entire strip of circuit to be repaired is smaller than my pinkie finger, so naturally I made a bit of a mess. You can see where the soldering iron drooped on the cluster frame and a section of circuit in the top right of the picture... ...thankfully there is only continuity along the repair, the rest of the traces still had good insulation. Fingers crossed, the boost gauge will work next time the car is fired up.



I've done up a page-long list of parts needed, but I should be getting most of these on friday from a dude in the quokka. Boy-o, it sure will be fun removing and installing a long list of brittle plastic interior fittings! I can't wait! I shall have more updates later in the week, then I'm going to get stuck into rebuilding the teerboh-chargarrr.



Also, you guys totally have to meet my pet spider that is living in the wing mirror :mrgreen: Every day he makes a fresh web for me! A top bloke all round.

wheel_of_steel

Goodies







So, I finally made the trip out to get this crap today. I wasn't lying when I said this dude has six s-coupes in his yard, there are also boatloads of X2s and X3s, a sonata, an elantra, and a motley collection of rusty and damaged jaguars and nissans, in that order. To put it another way, there are more Hyundais in his back yard than the last five Australian cruises put together! Yes, I am a hoarder.











That is about half of the shopping list out of the way. Still needed are: washer bottle lid, bonnet stand retaining clip, 2nd gen instrument cluster surround, OEM head unit, FL and RL seat belts, driver's sun visor, 2nd gen dip stick, OEM tool kit, seat rail covers, 2nd gen rear bumper, 2nd gen battery fuse box cover, horn pad retaining screws, passenger side power window switch and a 2nd gen centre console panel. Whew!



I still haven't done up the valve clearances yet, but tomorrow I'll lash them back down to stock, put the intake back together, and see if it still runs after I've put my grubby mitts all over it



There are some interesting differences I've been noting between these early models. The interior of the 1st and 2nd gen S-coupes are subtly different, but you could do a conversion between them if need be. The 2nd gen NA instrument cluster simply blanks off the section of circuit that I'm repairing, so it is guaranteed that this repair is for the boost gauge. Neither the X2 nor the X3 dipsticks fit the S-coupe's alpha, it uses its own style again. I just think it is really cool seeing all the different ways that Hyundai did things in their early days, when they were still finding out what did and didn't work. Anyhoo, I'll see if I can get the car running tomorrow, and report back. Cheers for reading!

wheel_of_steel

Hoo dear, one step forward and two steps back today.



Another rocker retaining nut stripped today, I have no idea what is going on. I was on the tenth valve, and after applying no more than 20 Nm of torque, the spanner just went 'soft' in my hands, and that was it. Stripped. I'm going to see if I can remove the offending nut without stripping the stud, but time will tell. I'm feeling quite exasperated, I was being mega gentle after all that messing around when the last one stripped. I guess these components have just been heat cycled too many times?



The new boot release solenoid doesn't work at all, just like the original one. There are 12 volts getting to the wiring harness connector, but it doesn't even TRY to move when it gets power. I guess there is a chance that the replacement one that I picked up is a dud? Both the old one and this one don't offer any resistance when you move the pushrod, but I don't have a working item to compare it to.



I guess this means another trip to that parts yard sometime soon. I was really hoping to get the car running today