Welding 101 hints&tips&tricks
12-18-2002, 05:51 AM
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Welding 101 hints&tips&tricks
I'm wanting to learn how to weld, anyone suggest a good welder to get for cheap/quality and some websites that explain how the jazz works?
(ie. looking to do custom turbo piping end of next year)
(ie. looking to do custom turbo piping end of next year)
12-18-2002, 07:05 AM
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Decker..welding is sort of an art that you have to practice for a long time to get it right. If you like to read, then check out the "Haynes Techbook Welding Manual." It covers all types of welding including arc welding, MIG (wire-feed) welding, TIG (heli-arc) welding, oxyacetylene welding/heating/cutting and plasma-arc welding/cutting. It shows you what’s the right equipment for you and how to use it safely.
Also, see if you can take up some kind of welding class somewhere in your town. Alot of community colleges offer cheap courses in this. To get you started, I'll answer some basic questions for you:
1) What type of Stick welder works best for all-around use? a welder with an AC/DC output. DC welding offers advantages over AC for most Stick applications, including easier starts, fewer arc outages and sticking, less spatter/better looking welds, easier vertical up and overhead welding, easier to learn "how to weld" and a smoother arc. DC reverse polarity (electrode positive) provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC, while DC straight polarity (electrode negative) welds thinner metals beter.
2) Does an AC output have any advantages? Yes if you need to weld on material that’s become magnetized from friction, such as when things constantly rub against a steel part. A DC output won’t work because of "arc blow," where the magnetic field blows the molten filler metal out of the weld puddle. Because an AC output alternates between polarities, it enables you to weld magnetized parts.
3)How big of machine do I need? A 225 to 300 amp machine handles almost anything the average person will encounter, as most Stick welding procedures require 200 amps or less. To weld material thicker than 3/8 in., simply make multiple passes 3/4 this is what professionals do, even when welding on 1 in. structural steel.
4) Do I have to remove rust or oil before welding? Stick welding is more forgiving on unclean conditions, but it never hurts to clean parts with a wire brush or grind off excess rust. If you prepare well and have average welding ability, you can make a sound weld. However, even great welding skill cannot overcome poor preparation, as it can lead to cracking, lack of fusion and slag inclusions.
A few last words of advice. Always remember that you need a good view of the weld puddle. Otherwise, you can’t ensure you’re welding in the joint, keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle and using the right amount of heat (you can actually see a puddle with too much heat roll out of the joint). For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the smoke so you can easily see the puddle.
Also remember that you learn through mistakes. There’s no shame in grinding out bad welds. In fact, professional welders create perfect welds by recognizing imperfections, grinding them out and rewelding. Good luck, and have fun! wink
Also, see if you can take up some kind of welding class somewhere in your town. Alot of community colleges offer cheap courses in this. To get you started, I'll answer some basic questions for you:
1) What type of Stick welder works best for all-around use? a welder with an AC/DC output. DC welding offers advantages over AC for most Stick applications, including easier starts, fewer arc outages and sticking, less spatter/better looking welds, easier vertical up and overhead welding, easier to learn "how to weld" and a smoother arc. DC reverse polarity (electrode positive) provides about 10 percent more penetration at a given amperage than AC, while DC straight polarity (electrode negative) welds thinner metals beter.
2) Does an AC output have any advantages? Yes if you need to weld on material that’s become magnetized from friction, such as when things constantly rub against a steel part. A DC output won’t work because of "arc blow," where the magnetic field blows the molten filler metal out of the weld puddle. Because an AC output alternates between polarities, it enables you to weld magnetized parts.
3)How big of machine do I need? A 225 to 300 amp machine handles almost anything the average person will encounter, as most Stick welding procedures require 200 amps or less. To weld material thicker than 3/8 in., simply make multiple passes 3/4 this is what professionals do, even when welding on 1 in. structural steel.
4) Do I have to remove rust or oil before welding? Stick welding is more forgiving on unclean conditions, but it never hurts to clean parts with a wire brush or grind off excess rust. If you prepare well and have average welding ability, you can make a sound weld. However, even great welding skill cannot overcome poor preparation, as it can lead to cracking, lack of fusion and slag inclusions.
A few last words of advice. Always remember that you need a good view of the weld puddle. Otherwise, you can’t ensure you’re welding in the joint, keeping the arc on the leading edge of the puddle and using the right amount of heat (you can actually see a puddle with too much heat roll out of the joint). For the best view, keep your head off to the side and out of the smoke so you can easily see the puddle.
Also remember that you learn through mistakes. There’s no shame in grinding out bad welds. In fact, professional welders create perfect welds by recognizing imperfections, grinding them out and rewelding. Good luck, and have fun! wink
12-18-2002, 10:56 AM
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man, I wish I had a book when I was learning. I just had a sheet of steel (thicker guage) and an arc welder. I was terrified because I kept welding the rod to the metal then the welder would make this awful noise. (when i was striking it against the metal to make the arc... now that I think back, it was so really stupid. welding has always been more by "feel" for me as vision is so limited) I also figured out cutting before welding with an arc. It was weird.
Mostly it is trial and error, even with instruction. Get the proper equipement (good gloves, a good mask... not the stupid goggles, and as a precaution, watch out for your feet if you are welding overhead. Nothing hurts more than molten steel down boots/shoes.)
[ December 18, 2002, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: TibGrrl ]
Mostly it is trial and error, even with instruction. Get the proper equipement (good gloves, a good mask... not the stupid goggles, and as a precaution, watch out for your feet if you are welding overhead. Nothing hurts more than molten steel down boots/shoes.)
[ December 18, 2002, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: TibGrrl ]
12-18-2002, 11:44 AM
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QUOTE
TibGrrl:
I was terrified because I kept welding the rod to the metal then the welder would make this awful noise. (when i was striking it against the metal to make the arc...
*LOL* I did the same exact thing when I first learned how to weld. But don't feel too bad. I hear it's a common thing. Alot of people weld the rod to metal on their first few tries. *ha ha* I was terrified because I kept welding the rod to the metal then the welder would make this awful noise. (when i was striking it against the metal to make the arc...
tongue.gif
12-18-2002, 11:47 AM
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okay, i don't feel like such a moron now smile.gif
LOL!
My first werlding project - making a sea wall. Cut this, weld that. It didn't have to look pretty, it was all under water. My crowning glory - patching holes in a YSR 50 gas tank and not having to grind down the weld at all. The holes faced the outside of the tank. THe puddle set perfectly. I was SO happy.
[ December 18, 2002, 06:53 PM: Message edited by: TibGrrl ]
LOL!
My first werlding project - making a sea wall. Cut this, weld that. It didn't have to look pretty, it was all under water. My crowning glory - patching holes in a YSR 50 gas tank and not having to grind down the weld at all. The holes faced the outside of the tank. THe puddle set perfectly. I was SO happy.
[ December 18, 2002, 06:53 PM: Message edited by: TibGrrl ]