NOS Questions
10-24-2002, 05:50 AM
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NOS Questions
I consider myself pretty smart when it comes to cars and engines, but i don't know anything about NOS. I've got a body who works a car shop and he wants to put a small shot of NOS on my 98 2.0L Tib. I have a TB, intake, header, exhaust, but nothing major. He said that my engine is strong enough to handle it. What do you all think? How big could i go, and wet or dry,(if this is true) without worrying about damaging anything or doing any major engine mods? Thanks
10-24-2002, 06:44 AM
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Nitrous Oxide (N2O chemical composition) is a pair of nitrogen atoms coupled with an oxygen atom. By mass, N2O is around 35% oxygen, which is a much higher oxygen content than the normal atmosphere around us.
Under high pressure, the nitrogens break off from the oxygen and makes the oxygen available to burn. So, given more fuel and the extra available oxygen, you get more horsepower.
Nitrous is different than forced induction, because the engine is "inhaling" the nitrous gas versus actually being forced via positive pressure on the intake manifold.
Nitrous helps in two ways: one, because of the extra oxygen content. Two, because of the massive thermal change when being released from the 1000+psi charge bottle to the 14psi relative atmospheric pressure. Basically / laymans terms, it gets HELLA COLD. This makes nitrous help considerably more on a supercharged or turbocharged car. I've seen a 35 shot on a JRSC'd Civic Si make 50 wheel horsepower because of the massive cooling effect against the incredibly hot M45 blower running at 12psi (modded blower pulley)
How much can you use on a four cylinder Tiburon?
When dealing with a dry shot, a good place to stop is 55hp. Dry means that the kit only sprays nitrous gas; any extra fuel is delivered through your normal stock fuel injectors and thus you are limited to what your injectors can provide.
On a single fogger wet shot, a good place to stop is 75hp. Wet, as you can guess, means that the nitrous kit sprays nitrous gas AND additional fuel as well... This way, you are not relying on the limits of the stock fuel injectors.
On both dry and wet single fogger kits, all the nitrous or nitrous/fuel mixture is sprayed from a single nozzle that is placed somewhere downstream from your throttlebody. There is a third option...
On a direct port system, there are people who run as much as a 150hp shot on the stock motor. Direct port systems are always wet, and involve placing a nitrous/fuel sprayer nozzle in each intake runner very near the stock fuel injectors.
Because each cylinder has it's own secondary fuel source and it's own nitrous source, you can make a LOT of horsepower very quickly with such a system. However, I would suggest someone who's new at this to not exceed 100hp even on a direct port setup. Later in life when you're a bit more in-tune with how it works, you can up the dosage...
Because nitrous is essentially an "instant on" power adder, you have to be careful about activating it. If you activate the nitrous while the engine is spinning slowly (ie at 2000 RPM's) then it can wreak havoc on your engine components with the massive and instantaneous increase in torque.
On anything 75hp and less, don't engage the nitrous until at least after 3000 RPM's. If you ever decide to go with the 100hp shot, your engagement point may need to be 4000 RPM's or higher. Anything higher than 100hp shot and you NEED to purchase a progressive controller unit, which will allow you to ramp up the nitrous delivery from a lower number to full output over a span of time.
Instantly shocking the driveline with a 150hp shot is a very good way to break something, but ramping it from 50hp to 150hp over a few seconds will produce considerably less stress to the rods and crank.
Hope that's enough to keep you entertained and reading for a while. smile.gif
Under high pressure, the nitrogens break off from the oxygen and makes the oxygen available to burn. So, given more fuel and the extra available oxygen, you get more horsepower.
Nitrous is different than forced induction, because the engine is "inhaling" the nitrous gas versus actually being forced via positive pressure on the intake manifold.
Nitrous helps in two ways: one, because of the extra oxygen content. Two, because of the massive thermal change when being released from the 1000+psi charge bottle to the 14psi relative atmospheric pressure. Basically / laymans terms, it gets HELLA COLD. This makes nitrous help considerably more on a supercharged or turbocharged car. I've seen a 35 shot on a JRSC'd Civic Si make 50 wheel horsepower because of the massive cooling effect against the incredibly hot M45 blower running at 12psi (modded blower pulley)
How much can you use on a four cylinder Tiburon?
When dealing with a dry shot, a good place to stop is 55hp. Dry means that the kit only sprays nitrous gas; any extra fuel is delivered through your normal stock fuel injectors and thus you are limited to what your injectors can provide.
On a single fogger wet shot, a good place to stop is 75hp. Wet, as you can guess, means that the nitrous kit sprays nitrous gas AND additional fuel as well... This way, you are not relying on the limits of the stock fuel injectors.
On both dry and wet single fogger kits, all the nitrous or nitrous/fuel mixture is sprayed from a single nozzle that is placed somewhere downstream from your throttlebody. There is a third option...
On a direct port system, there are people who run as much as a 150hp shot on the stock motor. Direct port systems are always wet, and involve placing a nitrous/fuel sprayer nozzle in each intake runner very near the stock fuel injectors.
Because each cylinder has it's own secondary fuel source and it's own nitrous source, you can make a LOT of horsepower very quickly with such a system. However, I would suggest someone who's new at this to not exceed 100hp even on a direct port setup. Later in life when you're a bit more in-tune with how it works, you can up the dosage...
Because nitrous is essentially an "instant on" power adder, you have to be careful about activating it. If you activate the nitrous while the engine is spinning slowly (ie at 2000 RPM's) then it can wreak havoc on your engine components with the massive and instantaneous increase in torque.
On anything 75hp and less, don't engage the nitrous until at least after 3000 RPM's. If you ever decide to go with the 100hp shot, your engagement point may need to be 4000 RPM's or higher. Anything higher than 100hp shot and you NEED to purchase a progressive controller unit, which will allow you to ramp up the nitrous delivery from a lower number to full output over a span of time.
Instantly shocking the driveline with a 150hp shot is a very good way to break something, but ramping it from 50hp to 150hp over a few seconds will produce considerably less stress to the rods and crank.
Hope that's enough to keep you entertained and reading for a while. smile.gif
10-24-2002, 09:17 PM
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thanks a lot, that really helped. just one last question, in your opinion, what would the safest of those three options be? i don't want to take any chances on hurting my engine yet, i only have 50,000 miles on it. thanks again
10-24-2002, 09:25 PM
#5
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Go with a 50 shot using a NX or NOS WET kit. But that's my opinion coming from months of reading and being just as paranoid as everyone else. wink
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