GUYS, PLEASE STOP WITH ALL THE QUOTING, it's driving me nuts. Just use the ADD REPLY button at the bottom of the page.

 

Hey,

There is no need to remove your engine to change motor mounts. All you have to do is support the engine with a jack so it doesn't lower at all. Then just remove the mounting bolts and you're done. The reasoning for a front billet instead of rear, is for two reasons. The first is that the front mounting point is used as a pivot point. The billet mount prevents engine movement which is toward the firewall. By limiting the travel on the front of the engine, it will not allow the engine to rock backwards. If you left the front stock and installed a billet mount in the rear, the engine will still rock somewhat toward the firewall, not as much as all stock, but more than the front billet and rear stock. The second reason, is that a billet rear tends to cause more vibrations than if one was installed on the front.

BTW, about the mount. If you could go without your car for about 5 days, then i could get it done. Just remove the mount, send it to me, I'll machine a billet mount for you and send it back to you so all you have to do is bolt it back on. Let me know.

Thanks,

Kevin
KJB Motorsports

 

alright when I find out which mount is blown and get my car up here with me I will be able to send you my mount. Do i just leave a Jackstand underneath the engine like @ the oil pan the entire time?

Thanks

 

No jackstands under the oil pan please. It's not strong enough. I don't have an alternative for you though.

 

Hey,

Don't use a jackstand. In fact, you can leave your car sit without anything under the engine. It has two other mounts plus the tranny mount holding it up. Only use a floor jack to take some weight off of the mounts in order to remove the mount or to line the bolt holes up.

Just to clarify things. If you are going to send me your mount, please send $80 (cost of mount) via paypal to kjbaudio@yahoo.com. Also, make sure you ship the bolt that goes through the center of the rubber mount with the mount itself. I need to get the dimensions off of that.

Thanks,

Kevin
KJB Motorsports

 

Since he's sending you his and you're using it for development, don't you think you should give him a discount?

 

Hey,

Actually, I am because I'm going to remove the stock rubber and metal ring from the mount as well. I usually charge about $20 extra to do this cause it takes a good while to do.

Thanks,

Kevin
KJB Motorsports

Hey,

Just to inform you guys, I'll be heading out to Southern California tomorrow morning and computer access will be limited. So, don't get nervous if you don't hear from me until late sunday night or monday morning.

Thanks,

Kevin
KJB Motorsports

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (REDZMAN @ May 15 2007, 03:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>Yes sir. I can show you the threads from when we set this up before and it fell through with another company, there was LOTS of interest. I can get you the OEM parts to copy off of as soon as you let me know.

I'd be stoked if I could get mine before Nopi Denver late June.</div>

You want me to send those parts?

 

Alright, so now i'm considering on keeping my stock brake set up just with better rotors, except I want the rears, too. Is there any way you could get rear Cross Drilled / Slotted rotors?

 

I got my bushings and installed them the same day. DAMN it feels so much better when i shift now.