Question On Sway Bar Endlinks!
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Brampton Ontario
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Vehicle: Two 97 RD Tibs and 2010 Genesis Coupe
Kevin!
Three quick questions for you.
First of all is shipping to Canada free as well?
Secondly do the endlinks you sell actually adjust TALLER than the OEM ones and can they be used at the front?
I need them taller because my sway bar rests on top of the control arms causing the car to make a knocking sound when i turn or go over a bump.
Finally do you have them in stock and ready to ship
Thanks! smile.gif
Three quick questions for you.
First of all is shipping to Canada free as well?
Secondly do the endlinks you sell actually adjust TALLER than the OEM ones and can they be used at the front?
I need them taller because my sway bar rests on top of the control arms causing the car to make a knocking sound when i turn or go over a bump.
Finally do you have them in stock and ready to ship
Thanks! smile.gif
#2
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Vehicle: 2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
I know that this is an old post but I got a set of rears in today.
For the second question, these adjust from about 4 3/4" to 6 1/2". That is with keeping 6 threads on each end threaded in. I am not sure what the best practice is as far as minimum threads though.
I would like to add a question to this though for the guys at KJB. I kind of thought that one end of these would be reverse threaded so as to be adjustable without having to remove them from the vehicle, similar to a turnbuckle. Any plans to alter your design in that aspect?
For the second question, these adjust from about 4 3/4" to 6 1/2". That is with keeping 6 threads on each end threaded in. I am not sure what the best practice is as far as minimum threads though.
I would like to add a question to this though for the guys at KJB. I kind of thought that one end of these would be reverse threaded so as to be adjustable without having to remove them from the vehicle, similar to a turnbuckle. Any plans to alter your design in that aspect?
#3
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i had the same prob with my front sway bar hitting the control arm and then one day i was under the car and i noticed that it was a little to far over on one side. so i loosed the barckets moved it over and bolted it back down. that was the end of that prob =)
#4
Hey,
Originally we had designed it that way. However, the supplier we are using for the rod ends were out of stock on left-hand threaded rod ends. I was told that they would get some in about 4 months. So we decided to just go ahead with the design without the turnbuckle style instead of using regular steel rod ends. Not too many people mess with the length of these once they go on the car. And to adjust them all you have to do is disconnect the one end and lengthen it. We may change back to the turnbuckle style in the future, but to this day, nobody has complained about the design.
As far as minimum theads go, you want at least 6-7 turns into the body to allow proper tension strength. Remember when you shorten the rod end, the sway bar becomes slightly stiffer.
Thanks,
Kevin
KJB Motorsports
Originally we had designed it that way. However, the supplier we are using for the rod ends were out of stock on left-hand threaded rod ends. I was told that they would get some in about 4 months. So we decided to just go ahead with the design without the turnbuckle style instead of using regular steel rod ends. Not too many people mess with the length of these once they go on the car. And to adjust them all you have to do is disconnect the one end and lengthen it. We may change back to the turnbuckle style in the future, but to this day, nobody has complained about the design.
As far as minimum theads go, you want at least 6-7 turns into the body to allow proper tension strength. Remember when you shorten the rod end, the sway bar becomes slightly stiffer.
Thanks,
Kevin
KJB Motorsports