Good evening, folks.

Have been pouring over the forums here for the past couple of weeks (only registered a week or so ago). I put the information to good use after recently installing my AEM CAI. Thanks for all the wonderful posts. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to installing any kind of mods - before the CAI, the only thing I'd ever done to my car was change my plugs. So I apologize for my ignorance in advance.

That being said, I've been trying to figure out exactly what engine upgrade to consider next. I've looked through the old and current forums for a list of prospects. Basic list (in order of preference) is:

<ul>Rear, Center, Front strut bars,
BBTB,
Exhaust,
Headers,
Intake Manifold.[/list]
Bunch of questions I'm hoping that someone might be able to help me shed some light on. First, I was reading the DIY Throttle Body Bypass article. First question - will the bypass without a new throttle body buy me anything? Judging from this post, it seems that it would? But that first article says that you shouldn't bypass in the winter... which unfortunately is just around the corner, so perhaps I should hold off? Next - the BBTB currently available at KSpec says that it for a '2.0 Beta 1' engine. I'm a little confused on this - is this for RD1 or RD2? What's with the two different numbers? I did read the FAQ, but it just confirms that I have an RD2 ('01, in my case). Does the "not-in-winter" rule also apply to the KSpec TB? I.e. the aftermarket TB doesn't have nipples for the coolant hoses, so...? Next, does the IM have to be matched to the TB for size? Will I have to bore out my IM if I buy KSpec's? What about the different sizes - judging from this article, it would seem that 62mm is the most popular?

Lastly (saving the most embarrassing question for last)... where might I find some information on what these parts will actually do for me? Namely... I don't have a clue what a throttle body is or does, or how a larger bore will improve my performance. Will it provide more power? Smoother acceleration? Something else? Same thing for the IM, headers, etc. Is there a good website that someone could recommend to give me some of these basic concepts? I tried googling some of the subjects, but got so many garbage results that it was impossible to find anything useful.

Thanks for putting up with us newbs - truly appreciate whatever help you can provide! Also, if there are any other "beginner-level" upgrades that I'm missing from this list, let me know!

Cheers,
Shawn.

*DOUBLE POST EDITED BY REDZMAN - G*

Oh, and as an aside, I've found the following strut bars. Anyone have any preference on which is better? KSpec seems to be popular on this site - what about the others? Any good?

<ul>KSpec's front and rear.
Speedstate (AOS)
Shark Racing,
Import Shark (EVO),
Team-SR (EVO)[/list]`

 

Welcome EnigmaticSoul! Within the next few hours a mod will be on here to fix it but don't double post. Just hit the EDIT button.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>That being said, I've been trying to figure out exactly what engine upgrade to consider next. I've looked through the old and current forums for a list of prospects. Basic list (in order of preference) is:

Rear, Center, Front strut bars,
BBTB,
Exhaust,
Headers,
Intake Manifold.</div>

Looks like a good order to me, but if I were you I'd jump on the Headers Group Buy at http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...viewtopic&t=964 and save some money for now. If you plan on getting the Airram I/M hold off on the front strut bar b/c you'll need a custom one.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>First question - will the bypass without a new throttle body buy me anything? Judging from this post, it seems that it would? But that first article says that you shouldn't bypass in the winter... which unfortunately is just around the corner, so perhaps I should hold off?</div>

I'd hold off for now.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>Next - the BBTB currently available at KSpec says that it for a '2.0 Beta 1' engine. I'm a little confused on this - is this for RD1 or RD2? What's with the two different numbers? I did read the FAQ, but it just confirms that I have an RD2 ('01, in my case).</div>

2.0 is referring to the size of the engine b/c the RD1s had a 1.8L and a 2.0L available. Beta 1 is reffering to the name of the 4 cylinder engine in RD1, RD2 and the Elantra from a few years back. The '03 Tibs have a Beta 2 which includes CVVT. Yes, you do have an RD2.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>Does the "not-in-winter" rule also apply to the KSpec TB? I.e. the aftermarket TB doesn't have nipples for the coolant hoses, so...?</div>

No, because you don't have a choice you have to do the bypass.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>Next, does the IM have to be matched to the TB for size? Will I have to bore out my IM if I buy KSpec's? What about the different sizes - judging from this article, it would seem that 62mm is the most popular?</div>

Don't bore out the stock I/M just get the Airram I/M. What article? The BBTB on kspec is adjustable up to 61mm and the opening on the Airram I/M is 68mm. Preferrably the I/M is the same size or bigger in which case the Airram I/M works beautifully.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>Lastly (saving the most embarrassing question for last)... where might I find some information on what these parts will actually do for me?</div>

www.howstuffworks.com and there are plenty of books out there. Maybe find someone with car knowledge around you and start probing them?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>Oh, and as an aside, I've found the following strut bars. Anyone have any preference on which is better? KSpec seems to be popular on this site - what about the others? Any good?

KSpec's front and rear.
Speedstate (AOS)
Shark Racing,
Import Shark (EVO),
Team-SR (EVO)</div>

We like KSPEC b/c we know we will actually get our orders within a timely fashion unlike Shark Racing, Import Shark (EVO), and Team-SR (EVO). I don't know anything about reliability of speedstate though I'm blanking on who they even are. The strutbars KSPEC has are good so stick with those.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tiburonmoo)</div><div class='quotemain'>Welcome EnigmaticSoul! Within the next few hours a mod will be on here to fix it but don't double post. Just hit the EDIT button.</div>

Sorry 'bout that...

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tiburonmoo)</div><div class='quotemain'>Looks like a good order to me, but if I were you I'd jump on the Headers Group Buy at http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...viewtopic&t=964 and save some money for now. If you plan on getting the Airram I/M hold off on the front strut bar b/c you'll need a custom one.</div>

Wonderful, thank you - just checked it out. I'm a little hesitant to consider headers, though, since I still know so little. I've looked around and unfortunately there doesn't seem to be any DIY guide for header installation. Plus the article here (<a href='http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1565' target='_blank'><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565" target="_blank">http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565</a></a></a>)</a> suggests that there a variety of specialty tools required. What is the difference between the racing and GT version? Will either fit my stock vehicle? How will this choice affect my future upgrade decisions (i.e. if I purchased racing or GT, I would have to replace it if I ever installed turbo)?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (tiburonmoo)</div><div class='quotemain'>www.howstuffworks.com and there are plenty of books out there. Maybe find someone with car knowledge around you and start probing them?</div>

Thanks, I found a couple of articles that may be of interest to fellow newbies:
<ul>Article on exhaust headers from howstuffworks.com
Good performance tuning info, not for the tib, but still good info.
Good article on exhaust theory[/list]

 

If you want to have a very noticeable upgrade, go with the AirRam and BBTB first since you already have the AEM.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>Wonderful, thank you - just checked it out. I'm a little hesitant to consider headers, though, since I still know so little. I've looked around and unfortunately there doesn't seem to be any DIY guide for header installation. Plus the article here (<a href='http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1565' target='_blank'><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565" target="_blank"><a href="http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565" target="_blank">http://www.rdtiburon.com/index.php?name=Fo...iewtopic&t=1565</a></a></a>)</a> suggests that there a variety of specialty tools required. What is the difference between the racing and GT version? Will either fit my stock vehicle? How will this choice affect my future upgrade decisions (i.e. if I purchased racing or GT, I would have to replace it if I ever installed turbo)?</div>

Headers are not all that hard to install. They are only like 15 bolts. The pain is getting the bolts out. The only specialty tool that you should need is an impact wrench. I ran into some problems and ended up using a die grinder and sawzall.

This is a good mod and will increase acceleration. I don't know how much you would increase with the header alone though because I installed a full exhaust system at the same time.

 

One way to look at an engine is, it's an air-pump. The easier the air enters and exits the engine, the better it performs. Same holds true with an increase in air volume, but quite often this will also require an increase in fuel as well. To the last question on replacement of header with a turbo install, that's a big YES. Turbo kits require header replacement. As to which kind, a lot of people will tell you different things. Most say a 4 into 1 header is for top end horsepower and a 4-2-1 is for bottom end and midrange torque. Either one will improve performance over stock manifolds and is one of the best bang-for-the-buck mods you can do. Good luck and welcome to the site. This has to be the best source for Tib info on the web. Hats off to Java and his crew.

 

Okay, so I've got a much better idea about how the exhaust system works now (thanks for the info). I'm still somewhat unsure about the difference between the racing header v.s. GT. Besides the $200 price difference, of course. And if both of these will fit on my stock machine. Since there's the GB, figured it might behoove me to take advantage of the good deal...

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>Have been pouring over the forums here for the past couple of weeks (only registered a week or so ago). </div>

Welcome to the site, and finally! A newbie that does it almost perfectly!

Great first post man.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'><ul>Rear, Center, Front strut bars,
BBTB,
Exhaust,
Headers,
Intake Manifold.[/list]</div>

Good to see you making that list, you have a good idea where you want to go. Myself, I'd get the FRONT, then the REAR, then the CENTER bar, they will make the most difference in that order. Or even better, get them all at once to save on S/H from KSPEC.com . ALso, I'd get the Headers and Exhaust and put them on at the same time, it'll save much confusion later.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>First question - will the bypass without a new throttle body buy me anything? Judging from this post, it seems that it would? But that first article says that you shouldn't bypass in the winter... which unfortunately is just around the corner, so perhaps I should hold off?</div>

Yes, it will, nothing much, but it will keep your TB from getting heated up, keeping air COOLER going into your engine. Consider it a long range mod, as it keeps the HP you have when you start your car, for longer.

As for you being in VA, I wouldn't worry about it, and go ahead and do the mod. It is VERy easy to reverse, and it shouldn't get cold enough there to freeze your TB shut. It's a RARE problem, but usually happens in very cold climates like Martha Stewarts Bedroom, or John Kerry's Medal Chest. :twisted:


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'> Next - the BBTB currently available at KSpec says that it for a '2.0 Beta 1' engine. I'm a little confused on this - is this for RD1 or RD2? What's with the two different numbers?</div>

You have a Beta 1, the Beta 2's started in 2003 on the Tiburons, and 2001 on the Elantras. Same engine basicly, but the Beta 2 went to MAP instead of MAF, a different kind of air measuring instrument.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Does the "not-in-winter" rule also apply to the KSpec TB? I.e. the aftermarket TB doesn't have nipples for the coolant hoses, so...?</div>

Well, you COULD swap your TB back to OEM every time the weather changes, but I wouldn't. Put the BBTB in, if you are afraid you may have some freezing problems, keep a phillips screwdriver in your car to take the intake elbow off if the TB freezes, then just use the rubber end to smack it once to open it. Or, you can just move the TB armature by hand and get it unstuck.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'> Next, does the IM have to be matched to the TB for size?</div>

Great question, and it may suprise you, but NO, it doesn't. I actually have the 61MM Rside Adjustable BBTB in my tib, with the STOCK IM, and it showed a good gain, and some REALLY cool noises when it opens up man. Neato. Can't wait to put the airram in.

My suggestion is to have it a bit bigger than your TB, so it doesn't restrict airflow at all or cause any extra turbulence in the air. If you get an airram IM, then get the 62MM BBTB. You'll then have 62MM to 68MM, and will be fine. If you can get a bigger BBTB later, you may have to shave the IM down a few MM to get the max out of it.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'> Will I have to bore out my IM if I buy KSpec's?</div>

No, the airram IM is bigger than any of the available BBTB's right now. 68MM. If you get a turbo (Usually 68 to 70MM for us) BBTB later, or the Rside Turbo one comes available again, you'd have to shave it down a bit to get the max out of it, but I'd just take it to the shop and get them to machine the extra off.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>What about the different sizes</div>

Depends on what you are planning. If you want just a bit of extra HP, get the 58MM from Tigerlilly. If you are planning on getting all you can NA, then get the 62MM from whomever has it. I have the 61MM Adjustable from Rside and it rules. You can adjust it from 59 to 61MM using some rings that it comes with. Fantastic piece of equipment. For NA you won't want to go bigger than 62, as air velocity drops dramaticly, and for Turbo, same problem with above 70MM.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Lastly (saving the most embarrassing question for last)... where might I find some information on what these parts will actually do for me? </div>

Howthingswork.com is a good site, but ask here, some of us are decently educated and can help you out.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>I don't have a clue what a throttle body is or does, or how a larger bore will improve my performance.</div>

As someone else stated, engines are air pumps. The more air you can get in, at a COLDER temperature, the more power you will have. Of course, there are limits, and adding fuel will become one of them later, but you have plenty of space to play around with. The Throttle body adjusts the amount of air going into the IM (The Intake manifold directs the air to the cylinders), and is the assembly that moves when you hit the gas pedal. You hit the pedal, it pulls the cable, the cable pulls some armatures, they rotate on an axle that has the butterfly valve (The brass colored part in the TB that blocks or limits the amount of air entering). The valve opens up and lets more air in and the engine compensates for the increased air (Measured by the MAF [Mass Air Flow] or MAP [Mass Air Pressure] sensor) by pumping in more fuel and changing your timing a bit.

Getting a BIGGER TB will allow less restriction, and a higher amount of air to enter the IM, ect, ect.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'> Will it provide more power?</div>

Yes.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Smoother acceleration?</div>

Maybe. Prolly not though, since you will then start driving like a maniac.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Something else?</div>

It will provide a steady woody everytime you drive.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Same thing for the IM, headers</div>

Well, the IM is really just like the TB, but without the valve. The object here is to get a massive amount of air into ALL 4 of the cylinders at the same time. Thats why you notice the airram has the / angle to the top of it. Getting more air in, smoother and evenly, helps out a LOT.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Thanks for putting up with us newbs - truly appreciate whatever help you can provide!</div>

That's why we are here.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'> Also, if there are any other "beginner-level" upgrades that I'm missing from this list, let me know!</div>

Yup, there is.

You need some mods for looks.

Black Chrome Euro Tails.

Also, you need a short shifter, and 98% of us will recommend the Rside Advanced short shifter from Kspec.com . You'll prolly notice a trend with Kspec being recommended here.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Oh, and as an aside, I've found the following strut bars. Anyone have any preference on which is better? KSpec seems to be popular on this site - what about the others? Any good?</div>

To be honest, most of them are very similar.

Kspec.com is the only one that can get you the center bar. I can tell you that. Also, the Moteria front bar that Importshark.com sells is VERY beefy, I love mine.

You should DEFINATELY do some searching here, and at the old forums, www.rdtiburon.com/old about Team SR and Shark Racing before you order ANYTHING from them.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (EnigmaticSoul)</div><div class='quotemain'>I'm still somewhat unsure about the difference between the racing header v.s. GT. Besides the $200 price difference, of course. And if both of these will fit on my stock machine. Since there's the GB, figured it might behoove me to take advantage of the good deal...</div>

Well, the difference is the make and the design. Maintec, the MFR of them is VERY popular in Korea and wants to branch out to the US. They make VERY high quality stuff.

Price? Yeah, the GT is expensive, but if you can get a part that LOOKS good and unique, it's gonna cost more. Besides, just looking at the difference between the 2 should show you how much harder one is to make then the other. Wow. Yes, they will both fit, and this is a once in a lifetime GB offer there. For performance difference, it'd be hard to say, as these will be the first ones I know of in the US, and getting specific info from Korea can be HARD.

 

As for the question of intake icing.. I would not worry about it in VA unless you are up in the mountains in the western end of the state. I live at the Jersey Shore, which is a colder and MUCH more humid place in the winter, and I used to run a carbed car with the heating lines disconnected. I NEVER had a problem with the carb icing.. even living only a block of so from the ocean... and one winter it was so cold the salt water in the ocean froze in the form of waves.. (very spooky)

Pretty much everything REDZ has said is right on the money, so you cannot go wrong by listening to him here.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mad-Machine)</div><div class='quotemain'>Pretty much everything REDZ has said is right on the money, so you cannot go wrong by listening to him <span style="font-size:24pt;line-height:100%"><span style="color:yellow">here</span></span>.</div>

...

You sayin normally there IS?

wink.gif