wich oil need my tiburon?????? 2,0 16
04-05-2005, 11:18 AM
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Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario Canada
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Knowing that 90% of engine wear is done at startup in the first minute the engine barks to life...
Here is my Oil Nerd answer regarding "what oil?"...
Definition: "Viscosity" of an oil is measured by the time it takes the oil to flow through a particular length tube at a particular temperature. The unit for viscosity is "cSt = Centistoke"
Definition: "Pour point" is the ability for oil to flow at temperatures lower than 70 degrees F.
Consumer engines are designed to run at operating temperatures with oil cSt range of 9 to 12
"If" not at this centistoke range "then" oil should be chosen with it's supply to meet an engine oil pressure of 10 lbs per 1000 rpms.
Because the pump is constant flow, "if" you are applying the engine to work hard enough that the oil temp rises & know it now has less cSt (at this elevated temperature) "then" you would choose another oil that meets engine design to maintain between 9 & 12 cSt.
The operating oil temperature range defines the significance of viscosity. Going from a 0w-20 to a 0w-30 or 0w-40, 0w-50 etc, knowing the oil temperature would help base the decision on what oil to choose for the application.
I don't know what my oil temperatures are I haven't got a temperature gauge for that...yet. heh heh Once the weather gets warm, I'm installing an oil thermocouple in my oil pan.
On the drive to work this morning it was -8 C [17 F] and my Tiburon engine was running at 190 deg F.
The two coldest days of this winter that I drove to work was -44C [-47F] & -39C [-38F], my engine ran at 190 deg.
Aug 2004 one day for several hours I was in a traffic jam on the 403 in Toronto it was 32C [90f], sitting there listening to tunes my engine was at 195 Deg F.
Whether I'm idling or speeding running between 3500~4500 rpms down the highway or its freezing out or hotter than hell, I'm sure my oil is slightly cooler temp than the engine coolant.
I opted for 0w-20 Mobil 1. Its thickness "cSt" of low 50cSt @ 70 Deg F and 9.8cSt @ 212 Deg F, gives me 12.2cSt if my oil is at 195 deg.
Because of Mobil 1's kick arse pour point this was another reason to go with this oil.
The pour point of 0w-20 is about -50 deg F. The pour point for say a 10w-40 is about -45 deg f.
...But look at the thickness at 70 deg F. The 0w-20 is 56cSt. The 10w40 is 99cSt.
My Tiburon engine is silent at idle, I can hear the belt pass over the pulley's. My 330hp v8 Chev 1/2-ton engine is Uber quiet at idle and can only hear the happy throaty notes going through the headers. I tow a car hauler or haul wood with that truck, the power is fun and I ain't easy on it. Rarely letting anything pass me, I can haul my pal's race car doing about 4000+ rpms up this long hill near my house and still bounce below 50 lbs on the gauge. The sound gives me a woodie.
People think in terms of the oil thinning when it gets hot. They think this thinning with heat is the problem with motor oil. It would be more correct to think that oil thickens when it cools to room temperature and THIS is the problem..."Engine oil too thick at startup"
To a point, you can forget the numbers on the oil can. When you look at an oil can, look at the back for the donut symbol. There should be letters "SL" or the newly "SM" rating. Don't settle for anything less than "SL" as there are some oils left out there with the old "SJ" letters.
For the Tibby engine I would have no problem recommending any 0w-20, 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-20, 5w-30. They all have near the same thickness at operating temperature. The difference in performance is the thickness at startup. You want the thinnest oil at startup to do the least amount of damage from the quickest time for the oil to flow through the engine.
For engines that don't consume oil and you like long drain intervals, a true PAO synthetic type oil like Mobil 1 "Extended Performance", any Amsoil 100% synthetic
If you have an engine that slightly consumes oil especially at elevated rpms a true polyolester synthetic based lubricant like Redline, the Amsoil Series 2000/3000 or Motul to control oil consumption. These base stocks have excellent solvency and gradually clean up pre-existing deposits will decrease oil consumption to a minimum or the lowest amount.
If you don't want to spend the money on Synthetic then for a regular oil look on the back of the bottle and make sure it says SL/GF-3 or SM/GF-4. You are in store for shorter drain intervals.
Believe it or not: Wal-Mart SuperTech oil is about one of the best conventional oils on the market. If you live in Canada then Canadian tire in the red jug or black nugold is also one of the best.
Here is my Oil Nerd answer regarding "what oil?"...
Definition: "Viscosity" of an oil is measured by the time it takes the oil to flow through a particular length tube at a particular temperature. The unit for viscosity is "cSt = Centistoke"
Definition: "Pour point" is the ability for oil to flow at temperatures lower than 70 degrees F.
Consumer engines are designed to run at operating temperatures with oil cSt range of 9 to 12
"If" not at this centistoke range "then" oil should be chosen with it's supply to meet an engine oil pressure of 10 lbs per 1000 rpms.
Because the pump is constant flow, "if" you are applying the engine to work hard enough that the oil temp rises & know it now has less cSt (at this elevated temperature) "then" you would choose another oil that meets engine design to maintain between 9 & 12 cSt.
The operating oil temperature range defines the significance of viscosity. Going from a 0w-20 to a 0w-30 or 0w-40, 0w-50 etc, knowing the oil temperature would help base the decision on what oil to choose for the application.
I don't know what my oil temperatures are I haven't got a temperature gauge for that...yet. heh heh Once the weather gets warm, I'm installing an oil thermocouple in my oil pan.
On the drive to work this morning it was -8 C [17 F] and my Tiburon engine was running at 190 deg F.
The two coldest days of this winter that I drove to work was -44C [-47F] & -39C [-38F], my engine ran at 190 deg.
Aug 2004 one day for several hours I was in a traffic jam on the 403 in Toronto it was 32C [90f], sitting there listening to tunes my engine was at 195 Deg F.
Whether I'm idling or speeding running between 3500~4500 rpms down the highway or its freezing out or hotter than hell, I'm sure my oil is slightly cooler temp than the engine coolant.
I opted for 0w-20 Mobil 1. Its thickness "cSt" of low 50cSt @ 70 Deg F and 9.8cSt @ 212 Deg F, gives me 12.2cSt if my oil is at 195 deg.
Because of Mobil 1's kick arse pour point this was another reason to go with this oil.
The pour point of 0w-20 is about -50 deg F. The pour point for say a 10w-40 is about -45 deg f.
...But look at the thickness at 70 deg F. The 0w-20 is 56cSt. The 10w40 is 99cSt.
My Tiburon engine is silent at idle, I can hear the belt pass over the pulley's. My 330hp v8 Chev 1/2-ton engine is Uber quiet at idle and can only hear the happy throaty notes going through the headers. I tow a car hauler or haul wood with that truck, the power is fun and I ain't easy on it. Rarely letting anything pass me, I can haul my pal's race car doing about 4000+ rpms up this long hill near my house and still bounce below 50 lbs on the gauge. The sound gives me a woodie.
People think in terms of the oil thinning when it gets hot. They think this thinning with heat is the problem with motor oil. It would be more correct to think that oil thickens when it cools to room temperature and THIS is the problem..."Engine oil too thick at startup"
To a point, you can forget the numbers on the oil can. When you look at an oil can, look at the back for the donut symbol. There should be letters "SL" or the newly "SM" rating. Don't settle for anything less than "SL" as there are some oils left out there with the old "SJ" letters.
For the Tibby engine I would have no problem recommending any 0w-20, 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-20, 5w-30. They all have near the same thickness at operating temperature. The difference in performance is the thickness at startup. You want the thinnest oil at startup to do the least amount of damage from the quickest time for the oil to flow through the engine.
For engines that don't consume oil and you like long drain intervals, a true PAO synthetic type oil like Mobil 1 "Extended Performance", any Amsoil 100% synthetic
If you have an engine that slightly consumes oil especially at elevated rpms a true polyolester synthetic based lubricant like Redline, the Amsoil Series 2000/3000 or Motul to control oil consumption. These base stocks have excellent solvency and gradually clean up pre-existing deposits will decrease oil consumption to a minimum or the lowest amount.
If you don't want to spend the money on Synthetic then for a regular oil look on the back of the bottle and make sure it says SL/GF-3 or SM/GF-4. You are in store for shorter drain intervals.
Believe it or not: Wal-Mart SuperTech oil is about one of the best conventional oils on the market. If you live in Canada then Canadian tire in the red jug or black nugold is also one of the best.