SOCKS_old

nope, its not a 2hp but its a positive difference with the AEM style. it was just a recommendation to have the best.

FYI, the AEM does all you need or could want in an intake. it sits RIGHT behind the foglight hole, so air rushes straight into the filter.

Tib001

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (yellow90z32 @ Jan 5 2008, 09:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'></div>

I thought someone would have spotted this. Your sensor you moved when you put the strut bar on should be kept the same way as it was mounted.

Heres the thread about it.--> Knock sensor relocation

Other than that it looks good man welcome to the site.

yellow90z32

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Tib001 @ Jan 7 2008, 05:59 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>I thought someone would have spotted this. Your sensor you moved when you put the strut bar on should be kept the same way as it was mounted.

Heres the thread about it.--> Knock sensor relocation

Other than that it looks good man welcome to the site.</div>

from my knowledge with knock sensors. the sensor must be mounted to the motor itself, usually under the intake manifold. on the 300zx it's mounted under the lower plenum and in order to get to it you must remove the upper plenum, timing belt, lower plenum. which is about 4 hours of work. so instead people mount a new sensor to the top of the intake manifold and no one has had problems. i don't see how having that sensor mounted a different position would cause harm. i have not noticed an difference, not throwing any codes either. if it were the knock sensor it'd have to be fully secured to properly work, not bolted on with 1 bolt.

my .02 and experience.

Tib001

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>Actually,... it's a Knock Reference sensor.
The actual knock sensor is in the block. The sensor on the strut tower is like a "double check" and makes sure what the sensor in the block senses is in the block and not just road noise / bumps.
smile.gif

BTW Redz, GREAT WRITE UP!!!

Here is the BETTER explanation courtesy of Random,... for those who don't visit HA.com
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div><div class='quotemain'>

Originally posted by Random:
[QB] the 97-99 Tibbies have it mounted like REDzMAN shows. Pointed to the drivers side of the car.

Some 00's and some 01's have it pointed to the drivers side.

Some 00's and some 01's have a different sensor (different part number but looks the same) that points to the front of the car.

If you change the orientation of the sensor. 180 degrees, 90 degress, in any plane (horzontal or vertical) you will see a dedgregation of performance.

That is the inertia sensor. It basically functions like this.

You hit a "bump" in the road. This caused the inertia sensor to record an event, and the knock sensor to record an event. As long as both "record" the bump, the ECU knows it was a road bump, not detonation, and the ECU leaves timing alone.

If the ECU ONLY get's a signal from the Knock sensor, it assums this is "knock" and retards the Ignition timing.

NOW...The key thing to keep in mind is that the sensor is mounted WHERE it is, and HOW it is(to the strut tower) for a REASON. If you change the sensors orientation, or mounting location, you are in effect, changing the signal and type of signal it sends to the ECU. The ECU was calibrated with the Inertia sensor in THAT location using THAT orientation. Anything you do to that mounting location/orientation alters that signal. The ECU does not "know" you did this, and often mis-interprents "no signal" from the inertia sensor. Also, it may interprent "CONSTANT" signal from a vibrating mount like REDzMAN has.

Jeremy, I would highly reccomend you do something to secure BOTH sides of that mount, so that there is NO VIBRATION in that mounting bracket. In the stock mounting location, there is ZERO vibration. Your mounting location will have more or less constant vibration. The ECU will more than likly, falsey assume constant road irregularties...and not retard your spark timing when it should. This may, and probably WILL show up as more HP on the dyno, and more "seat of the pants" power, but in reality, you are doing damage to your engine.

I reccomend you simply machine (dremel or use a metal file or grinder) a notch in the existing bracket, to allow clearance with the strut bar. I did that for mine and it fit in the stock locaiton with the strut bar. (Shark Racing Strut bar and Motoria Strut bar)</div></div>

yellow90z32

driven over 600 miles so far with no codes, or symptoms. thank you for the info though, if i have a problem i know what the culprit is. "if it aint broke, i aint gunna fix it"

Tib001

^ Just didn't want to see you have any problems.

If your looking for a rear strut bar do a search for the Falken ones on ebay they are pretty nice and only 40 bucks. The only thing is they are for the front and the bracket needs a little modification to bolt up to the rear. There is a thread about it on here in the DIY section.

For 40 bucks and a little time they are well worth it and the polished aluminum looks good in the car.IMO

yellow90z32

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Tib001 @ Jan 8 2008, 05:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>^ Just didn't want to see you have any problems.

If your looking for a rear strut bar do a search for the Falken ones on ebay they are pretty nice and only 40 bucks. The only thing is they are for the front and the bracket needs a little modification to bolt up to the rear. There is a thread about it on here in the DIY section.

For 40 bucks and a little time they are well worth it and the polished aluminum looks good in the car.IMO

</div>


probably going to make my own brackets that will fit perfect. and maybe make extra to sell on here for others that are leery about the 1 half-moon hole.

Tib001

Yeah I didn't really like the half hole idea either. I was going to try something else but i'm not sure yet exactly what.

If you get to those brackets before I get to install mine I might be interested if your selling. fing02.gif