Will these be ok with the stock wiring?
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,735
Likes: 3
From: Vegas, Baby, Vegas!!!
Vehicle: '14 Ford F-150
well i have 300rms speakers in my front doors plus 250rms tweets in the a/c holes and i run them off stock wiring with no problems. just run the speaker wire from my amp back up to the harness and used the stock from console to doors. i did run new wire for the rears because its easy enough in the back of the car.
everyone had their own way of doing stuff. but my front stage runs at just over 500rms with no issues on the stock stuff. no matter what its still only carrying 12volts
everyone had their own way of doing stuff. but my front stage runs at just over 500rms with no issues on the stock stuff. no matter what its still only carrying 12volts
I gotta ask... what brand/ model amp?
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
Likes: 2
From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
well i have 300rms speakers in my front doors plus 250rms tweets in the a/c holes and i run them off stock wiring with no problems. just run the speaker wire from my amp back up to the harness and used the stock from console to doors. i did run new wire for the rears because its easy enough in the back of the car.
everyone had their own way of doing stuff. but my front stage runs at just over 500rms with no issues on the stock stuff. no matter what its still only carrying 12volts
everyone had their own way of doing stuff. but my front stage runs at just over 500rms with no issues on the stock stuff. no matter what its still only carrying 12volts
Everyone does have their own way of doing stuff, and you're doing it wrong. What you're doing is creating a fire hazard. And no, your amp's output is well over 12v. Not that "only" 12v would make it better, hook a piece of speaker wire to the positive and negative battery terminals on your car and see how well that works out for you. It's the amperage that will destroy your wires.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,285
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle: 2000 tiburon
^^gotta love the internet
on the electronics side you guys are correct but at the end of the day i've had my stereo in for longer then most of you have been on RDT and its been just fine. you guys have your way and it makes you happy, thats awsome. i have my way that i wired the car up and it works great, i'm happy.
stop being sh*t talkers about this and that (its not a big dick contest); enjoy your stereos and crank it up
(i dont work at a shop i just get great deals and put it in myself with help of buddy who has done stereos his whole life)
on the electronics side you guys are correct but at the end of the day i've had my stereo in for longer then most of you have been on RDT and its been just fine. you guys have your way and it makes you happy, thats awsome. i have my way that i wired the car up and it works great, i'm happy.
stop being sh*t talkers about this and that (its not a big dick contest); enjoy your stereos and crank it up
(i dont work at a shop i just get great deals and put it in myself with help of buddy who has done stereos his whole life)
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
Likes: 2
From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
Some people's talking sh*t is other people's keeping readers who don't know better from burning their cars to the ground. Physics is the one who hates your install, not me. You can do whatever you want. Just because you don't see the value in safety or understand why it is unsafe how you have it set up doesn't mean that your setup is safe. I mean, how many times does your car have to catch on fire for you to be convinced?
Your argument that your system being installed hasn't caused problems is like someone who is regularly tested for STD's using their negative tests as a reason why unprotected sex with strangers is safe. It only takes once. I know a lot of people don't like using fuses also. I think everyone would agree that running amp power with no fuse is pretty stupid, but they haven't had any problems.
For those who want to know why running 500w peak per side through stock wiring is truly a bad idea they can visit this site. If they don't understand something, or know how to put this information to use, feel free to ask.
Your argument that your system being installed hasn't caused problems is like someone who is regularly tested for STD's using their negative tests as a reason why unprotected sex with strangers is safe. It only takes once. I know a lot of people don't like using fuses also. I think everyone would agree that running amp power with no fuse is pretty stupid, but they haven't had any problems.
For those who want to know why running 500w peak per side through stock wiring is truly a bad idea they can visit this site. If they don't understand something, or know how to put this information to use, feel free to ask.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,285
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle: 2000 tiburon
a4075hct and a2200hcq audiobahn amps
running
audiopipe APMB-6ND loudspeakers and ATX-3720tweets on front stage
you guys are right i'm just doing it all wrong and putting up 140db. i cant believe all these years i was just being a newb
you internet gurus are just the end all, be all of wiring.you sure did put me in my place 
i'm sure this was very helpful for OP and sure was on topic as well.
running
audiopipe APMB-6ND loudspeakers and ATX-3720tweets on front stage
you guys are right i'm just doing it all wrong and putting up 140db. i cant believe all these years i was just being a newb
you internet gurus are just the end all, be all of wiring.you sure did put me in my place i'm sure this was very helpful for OP and sure was on topic as well.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 537
Likes: 0
From: Kingston ON
Vehicle: 1998 Tiburon
Hey man, my two cents is as follows:
For the rear speakers accesability is fairly easy, just remove grill and surrounding plastic panel and boom
For the front I ran aftermarket wire right to the kickpanel and taped in there, I also used some new wire in the door upon install of the speaker just for ease of install.
What that idea gets you is an easy install with majority of the current capablity covered. To run a nice 12-14awg speaker cable around majority of the car ensures quality and will bring up current handling. Skipping running through the door boot saves time and swearing at things.Realisticly it's not enough of a bottle neck to create real trouble aslong as the cable remains free from shorting on anything, even then since it's signal not actual voltage not a heck of a lot is going to happen.
Make sure you runn your rca's, speaker wire were possible and remote down the passenger side of the car with the twelve volt down the drivers. Keep the ground cable as short as you can and connect it to bare metal that is not rusting.Always go for a certified cable! The company in charge of certication of cable is there for consumer benefit, ensuring you get what you pay for.
Good luck man, don't be afraid to get shocked
For the rear speakers accesability is fairly easy, just remove grill and surrounding plastic panel and boom
For the front I ran aftermarket wire right to the kickpanel and taped in there, I also used some new wire in the door upon install of the speaker just for ease of install.
What that idea gets you is an easy install with majority of the current capablity covered. To run a nice 12-14awg speaker cable around majority of the car ensures quality and will bring up current handling. Skipping running through the door boot saves time and swearing at things.Realisticly it's not enough of a bottle neck to create real trouble aslong as the cable remains free from shorting on anything, even then since it's signal not actual voltage not a heck of a lot is going to happen.
Make sure you runn your rca's, speaker wire were possible and remote down the passenger side of the car with the twelve volt down the drivers. Keep the ground cable as short as you can and connect it to bare metal that is not rusting.Always go for a certified cable! The company in charge of certication of cable is there for consumer benefit, ensuring you get what you pay for.
Good luck man, don't be afraid to get shocked
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12,515
Likes: 2
From: Lacey, WA
Vehicle: Two Accents, Mini, Miata, Van, Outback, and a ZX-6
What amps are running what speakers and what ohm load are you pushing? Those APMB-6ND speakers are 8ohm, so with two the minimum would be a 4ohm load if wired in parallel.
If run independently on an amp channel the a2200hcq would give 100wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms. Bridged mono it would provide 400wRMS x 1 @ 4ohms if wired in parallel.
For the a4075hct bridged you would push 80wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms to each APMB-6ND independently.
I've been installing stereo systems for 19 years, and worked as an engineer for 9 years...but if that still doesn't qualify me to talk about this, maybe the fact that I hit 136.8dB on 612wRMS will. The extra 3dB you've managed with an additional ~5000w doesn't seem worth it to me. You should easily be at 145dB+ at that power level. You are at about 1/3 the efficiency of my system.
If run independently on an amp channel the a2200hcq would give 100wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms. Bridged mono it would provide 400wRMS x 1 @ 4ohms if wired in parallel.
For the a4075hct bridged you would push 80wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms to each APMB-6ND independently.
I've been installing stereo systems for 19 years, and worked as an engineer for 9 years...but if that still doesn't qualify me to talk about this, maybe the fact that I hit 136.8dB on 612wRMS will. The extra 3dB you've managed with an additional ~5000w doesn't seem worth it to me. You should easily be at 145dB+ at that power level. You are at about 1/3 the efficiency of my system.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,285
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
Vehicle: 2000 tiburon
What amps are running what speakers and what ohm load are you pushing? Those APMB-6ND speakers are 8ohm, so with two the minimum would be a 4ohm load if wired in parallel.
If run independently on an amp channel the a2200hcq would give 100wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms. Bridged mono it would provide 400wRMS x 1 @ 4ohms if wired in parallel.
For the a4075hct bridged you would push 80wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms to each APMB-6ND independently.
I've been installing stereo systems for 19 years, and worked as an engineer for 9 years...but if that still doesn't qualify me to talk about this, maybe the fact that I hit 136.8dB on 612wRMS will. The extra 3dB you've managed with an additional ~5000w doesn't seem worth it to me. You should easily be at 145dB+ at that power level. You are at about 1/3 the efficiency of my system.
If run independently on an amp channel the a2200hcq would give 100wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms. Bridged mono it would provide 400wRMS x 1 @ 4ohms if wired in parallel.
For the a4075hct bridged you would push 80wRMS x 2 @ 8ohms to each APMB-6ND independently.
I've been installing stereo systems for 19 years, and worked as an engineer for 9 years...but if that still doesn't qualify me to talk about this, maybe the fact that I hit 136.8dB on 612wRMS will. The extra 3dB you've managed with an additional ~5000w doesn't seem worth it to me. You should easily be at 145dB+ at that power level. You are at about 1/3 the efficiency of my system.
ok mr. big dick you sure are the winner of this
the a2200hcq is a 1ohm sub amp that does 2000rms and the a4075 is a 4channel amp that does 250x4 at 2ohms. i run the tweet and the loud bridged but run it off the amp at 2ohms and split it at the head harness so the amp sees 2ohms. i'm sure you do know what your talking about, you sure did show me mr. internet big dick. i'm such a newb and have no clue what i'm doing. your the winner
im sure that my system is only 1/3 as cool as yours 
, oh wait i have less then $1000 wrapped up in the whole interior. thats both amps,tweets,6.5's and 6x9's. but still im inferior in everyway to your big dick high dollar setup. damn i suck 
and as an ADMIN you shouldnt be getting this off topic. just saying. lead by example
